Yeah fuel system... thats part of why I was thinking carb LS. I found a fully dressed LS 6.0 takeout for $2500. The SBC price is crate motor. There are a few options I found on marketplace for a used SBC but kind of dont trust that its a decent motor. Could find one under $2000 and just hope for the best.
Gbody LS Swap Info
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Okay, back in the synopsis of what to look for when dealing with an LS swap into a g-body chassi, there was a brief paragraph on the topic of oil pans, which included a comment about something called "the Holley Swap Pan".
Anyone happen to know what part number that falls under? From several visits to their site, I do know that Holley displays multiple listings for various LS adaptive pans but none specifically possess the descriptor of "Swap". For myself I happen to like the Holley, based purely on the minimal amount of space it occupies which leaves more room to tweak the install and have ground clearance.
Nick
Anyone happen to know what part number that falls under? From several visits to their site, I do know that Holley displays multiple listings for various LS adaptive pans but none specifically possess the descriptor of "Swap". For myself I happen to like the Holley, based purely on the minimal amount of space it occupies which leaves more room to tweak the install and have ground clearance.
Nick
302-2 or 302-3. You can find a cheaper version on Amazon. But either of the Holley pans will work.
You’re at 3k minimum. I don’t care if you use a carb or a stock LS setup. If you plan to try the stock PCM ide, then make sure you have someone local that can tune it. From there the money/cost grows exponentially unless you’re extremely handy.
The easiest solution is a Term X Max and finding an LS with an 80e trans. But a Microsquirt or Megasquirt 2 and 3 will get it running well. Both systems require you to have some general tuning knowledge - if you have none, then expect failure imo. And the SBC starts looking better and better.
The joy of the LS is that once you have a fuel system and all of the LS specific parts is that replacement parts (motors) are damn cheap.
But you need to spend all of the upfront money 1st.
$2500 for a used 6.0 is insane. I've bought both of 6.0's for $250.
And please don't put a carb on a LS. You're defeating half of the gain of going to a late model engine.
And please don't put a carb on a LS. You're defeating half of the gain of going to a late model engine.
There are so many details with the LS swap. Just converting the fuel system to 60# for EFI is going to be $350 for in-tank, return-less, mostly prefabricated unit. I bought probably $150 of incidental wiring stuff like butt-connectors, crimpers, shrink tubing, terminal blocks, grounding wires etc. Hoses might be $100 as you have to cobble stuff together to fit. Do you really want to use the old knock, MAP, IAT, MAF, cam, and crank sensors? That'll be $150 in new sensors (I reused the MAF). You'll need to cobble together a cold air intake for at least $150. You'll want to know that you have oil pressure, right? That'll prolly be $50 for a simple trouble light that illuminates below 15#. If you use truck accessory bracket, the pinch point is interference with power steering pulley and the steering box; the Holley mounts will make it clear and put the bell housing where it should be. I would not buy the entire Holley kit; the transmission crossmember for 4l60/80e sucks, the "Hooker Blackheart" exhaust manifolds are good, but the exhaust kit from flange-aft sucks... then you are going to lose the speedometer unless you use an older transmission (TH350). I don't think there are any factory exhaust manifolds that fit both the driver and passenger side as a pair; I've heard the trailblazer SS manifold works on one side, not the other. As was mentioned, you need to change the oil pan; I'd use one of the chinesium knock-offs of the Holley 302 series. You'll need the LS1 F-body oil dipstick and you'll have to bend one or buy a Lokar flexible trans dipstick.
I saw electronic pedal brackets for sale at PSIconversion that could make the drive-by-cable to drive-by-wire conversion simple (haven't verified). I used 1998-2004 vintage ECU that allowed me to use drive by cable throttle body. I got an expert to explain to me that not possible to convert Gen4 to drive-by-cable without a bunch of adapters that make it Gen3; IOW can't use VVT on Gen4 with drive-by-cable.
I saw electronic pedal brackets for sale at PSIconversion that could make the drive-by-cable to drive-by-wire conversion simple (haven't verified). I used 1998-2004 vintage ECU that allowed me to use drive by cable throttle body. I got an expert to explain to me that not possible to convert Gen4 to drive-by-cable without a bunch of adapters that make it Gen3; IOW can't use VVT on Gen4 with drive-by-cable.
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I wouldn't say it's quite as bad as that doood But without prior planning, it easily can be. As far as using new sensors, why? If you read about the Terminator many specifically go to a junkyard and get OE sensors because the aftermarket ones are junk.
Fuel system for $350. Yep, probably about $400 total with fittings included.
Save money where you can, spend it where you need to. Don't skimp on something when you have a gut feeling it's going to bite you, because it will. $49 ICT brackets get the engine bolted in. That's the easiest part. Truck accessories have been done a million times, but IMO look like crap and you run into all sorts of issues like p/s interference. That's why I went with F body accessories. $40 ps pump off marketplace, new water pump was $100, used balancer off ebay was $100, ICT alternator bracket was $200. Saved me so much hassle and looks so much cleaner in my opinion. So that was $440 that was well spent in my mind.
Fuel system for $350. Yep, probably about $400 total with fittings included.
Save money where you can, spend it where you need to. Don't skimp on something when you have a gut feeling it's going to bite you, because it will. $49 ICT brackets get the engine bolted in. That's the easiest part. Truck accessories have been done a million times, but IMO look like crap and you run into all sorts of issues like p/s interference. That's why I went with F body accessories. $40 ps pump off marketplace, new water pump was $100, used balancer off ebay was $100, ICT alternator bracket was $200. Saved me so much hassle and looks so much cleaner in my opinion. So that was $440 that was well spent in my mind.
Okay you guys did your job, I think I will do a sbc swap or sell it as is. Out of curiosity, if the same car has a LS instead of a sbc350, does it add much resale value?
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Depends on the buyer & quality of the install/swap.
Swaps w/wires everywhere (especially excess wiring) and or questionable visuals (brackets/hoses/exhaust) can offset any 'value' in any swap (early motors or LS swaps). Quality is a key factor.
Some buyers also prefer old school vs new tech (and associated issues when doing quasi swaps).
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If you are going to try to do an LS swap to resell and this is your first time, then I’d urge you go with the SBC.
LS swaps are easy after you’ve done a couple, but there is very little that are direct bolt ons that don’t require a lot of fabrication. As Shawn mentioned, engine bay tidiness is a true concern with a resell. All of that takes money and planning to get everything you need. And putting a carb on an LS with a nonelectronic transmission is not going to increase the resale imo. The 7al box to run the coils is cost prohibitive as well.
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