Going to try 1st transmission swap. What am I missing?

[GBodyShop]

i know the 200-4r came for chevy bolt pattern and BOP bolt patterns, make sure you have the right one that will fit your motor. BOP is more universal then chevy pattern.
Note: BOP = Buick Olds Pontaic

Good Luck

 

[Texas82GP]

I've heard of people having trouble with the GForce x members, be it fitment or poor qaulity.

I'm surprised by this feedback. We used a G-Force crossmember on my brother's 78 Camaro with an LS Swap and a T-56 magnum. I thought the quality and fit were top notch. I bought a G-Force for the Saginaw 4-speed in my GP but before I installed it, I decided to swap to a T-5. I'd had the crossmember for the 4-Speed for about a year but G-Force took it back, with me only paying the return shipping and exchanged it for their 700R4 crossmember (700R4 is same length as Camaro T5). The customer service was outstanding. I've been nothing but impressed by the quality of all three crossmembers. Granted they are heavy but are very well made and very stiff. Granted, I haven't installed one in my GP yet but based on the experience with my brother's Camaro, I don't anticipate having trouble. I have heard of them hitting the floor board in G-bodies but it was my understanding that when that was happening the body mount bushings were collapsed. Maybe someone else who has one in their G can chime in.

 

[pontiacgp]

couple of other things you're missing is the case of beer and a friend to give you a hand with the job and the beer...

 

[MrSony]

Also might as well replace the U Joints on the driveshaft while your under there unless you're 110% sure they're ok. Also just do a general inspection.

 

[Pedrolif]

couple of other things you're missing is the case of beer and a friend to give you a hand with the job and the beer...

I can help with the beer!

Also might as well replace the U Joints on the driveshaft while your under there unless you're 110% sure they're ok. Also just do a general inspection.

I hadn't even thought of this when looking forward to my drivetrain upgrade. Makes sense now that you say it. And don't forget transmission lines (if they were not previously mentioned). Check if your current ones will work, or if they are leaking and should replaced.

It's the small things we overlook that add those extra days to a build because the parts store is closed.

 

[WisconsinCutlass]

Thanks everyone for all the feedback. It's greatly appreciated

Is your engine stock? Are you going to upgrade it? Do you race it?

The weakest link in the 200-4r is the forward drum. They are good in mild applications as long as you're not making crazy power you're good.

They use a hardened sunshell. Those are cheap insurance to replace. They changed the stator to already which is good since the factory ones wear bad.

Otherwise that is a good price.

My engine has a mild build that was done before I bought the car. Guy I bought it from said it should be around 400hp with whats done but it was never on a dyno. Im guessing its probably around 300 cause most people like to exagerate the hp number. No I don't race it. Get on it on the street everyonce and awhile otherwise its mainly just a cruiser when the weather is nice.

couple of other things you're missing is the case of beer and a friend to give you a hand with the job and the beer...

I got the beer covered. The garage fridge is always stocked. I also have a friend thats a mechanic I'm gonna ask to help. I want to get the new trans first before asking.

 

[olds307 and 403]

As long as you are not pushing 400+ ft/lbs, the forward drum should be OK. A 2400 stall sounds perfect for your combo. Sounds like a good deal for the trans. I would get a trans gauge and check pressures after install. Mine shifted soft after install, pressures were low in drive and OD. I swapped pumps since I had fresh one with hardened rings, stiffer spring, 13 vane rotor and .500/.296" boost vlaves. The 13 vane is controversial whether it does any good, some say it is even worse than the 7 vane, being weaker. I added the .555" boost valves to get pressures acceptable, from 185 to 215 psi. It might have meant a shortened life if I didn't check pressures. Now drives stock under light throttle and the 2300 flash stall gives a nice launch and firm shifting but not harsh under heavy throttle . One thing you need to upgrade in the stock pan, the sheet metal pan is the best. I have the Hughes pan, seeps a small amount no matter what I do. I run the bottom feed 4L60E early style filter with it. I believe that pan now comes with the bottom feed 700R4 filter. The minimum that should be done is a quart over full with the stock pan due to the stock filter sucking from the top.

 

[pontiacgp]

thought of something else, a tail shaft plug

 

[WisconsinCutlass]

As long as you are not pushing 400+ ft/lbs, the forward drum should be OK. A 2400 stall sounds perfect for your combo. Sounds like a good deal for the trans. I would get a trans gauge and check pressures after install. Mine shifted soft after install, pressures were low in drive and OD. I swapped pumps since I had fresh one with hardened rings, stiffer spring, 13 vane rotor and .500/.296" boost vlaves. The 13 vane is controversial whether it does any good, some say it is even worse than the 7 vane, being weaker. I added the .555" boost valves to get pressures acceptable, from 185 to 215 psi. It might have meant a shortened life if I didn't check pressures. Now drives stock under light throttle and the 2300 flash stall gives a nice launch and firm shifting but not harsh under heavy throttle . One thing you need to upgrade in the stock pan, the sheet metal pan is the best. I have the Hughes pan, seeps a small amount no matter what I do. I run the bottom feed 4L60E early style filter with it. I believe that pan now comes with the bottom feed 700R4 filter. The minimum that should be done is a quart over full with the stock pan due to the stock filter sucking from the top.

So how does one go about checking pressure? Is it a gauge that you actually setup up to monitor in the car while driving? Also something I haven't mentioned yet is I'd like a trans temp gauge in the car. How hard is it to setup? Also there was mention of changing the stock pan. I would love to have a pan with a drain plug instead of dropping the pan. Makes life easier. I know some people dissagree because you wont see if theres anything there shouldn't be on the bottom of the pan. What does everyone thing about it?

 

[V8 Rumble]

So how does one go about checking pressure? Is it a gauge that you actually setup up to monitor in the car while driving? Also something I haven't mentioned yet is I'd like a trans temp gauge in the car. How hard is it to setup? Also there was mention of changing the stock pan. I would love to have a pan with a drain plug instead of dropping the pan. Makes life easier. I know some people dissagree because you wont see if theres anything there shouldn't be on the bottom of the pan. What does everyone thing about it?

The gauge would go hooked up on the side of the trans. I just finished building my 200-4r.I still need the torque converter. I am on the fence about getting an aluminum pan. I may just get 700r4 filter. You can always drill a drain plug kit into the stock pan.

Most times unless you're lifting the wheels off the front or constant launching you should be fine ovefilling by half to a full quart with the factory 200-4r filter and pan.

Texas T on here put a 700r4 filter on his 200-4r with the stock pan. You have to get a plug with a cover for the fourth gear switch.

Ckperformance has a pan extension with filter fire the 200-4r as well.