Going to try 1st transmission swap. What am I missing?

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Yes, the port is where he mentioned and you can drive with it clipped under the wipers, just route away from exhaust. The Hughes pan has a drain plug. I believe you thread a temp gauge sender in the pan. Why don't more people run the early 4L60E filter? Fits the pan better and is plastic, so no shorting out the switch, that is why I run one. If you push your car hard, a deep pan is good insurance, I take mine down the 1/8 mile. Dr Dan Mascal, builds these trans and swears by the sheet metal pan, pick up at the back of the pan, to help them live. Dan thinks the Hughes pan with the bottom feed filter is good into the 12's.I would also add a big trans cooler, I run two mid size coolers, did that so it wouldn't block air flow to the rad as much, one under the head light, not sure if it is a good idea or not.
 
Yes, the port is where he mentioned and you can drive with it clipped under the wipers, just route away from exhaust. The Hughes pan has a drain plug. I believe you thread a temp gauge sender in the pan. Why don't more people run the early 4L60E filter? Fits the pan better and is plastic, so no shorting out the switch, that is why I run one. If you push your car hard, a deep pan is good insurance, I take mine down the 1/8 mile. Dr Dan Mascal, builds these trans and swears by the sheet metal pan, pick up at the back of the pan, to help them live. Dan thinks the Hughes pan with the bottom feed filter is good into the 12's.I would also add a big trans cooler, I run two mid size coolers, did that so it wouldn't block air flow to the rad as much, one under the head light, not sure if it is a good idea or not.

Hey olds, do you have the part # for that filter? Does that one work with the stock pan without sitting directly on the pan?
 
Just got off the phone with midwest converters. Very nice and knowledgeable people and very helpful with my questions. Couldn't beat the price either. Estimate of $1650 for the trans 2400 stall lockup converter, tci lockup kit installed, tv cable and dip stick. I should be able to pick it up friday. I know what Im gonna be doing this weekend. Wish me luck! Im sure I will be back here asking questions again sometime during this swap. Thanks everyone for the help so far
 
Sounds like a great deal! Best of luck to you. You are going to be loving that overdrive with those gears. Not sure if it was mentioned previously but make sure the TV cable geometry and adjustment are right on. It is critical on those 2004R's. They will burn the clutches up very quick if that TV cable isn't right. Please update the thread and let us know how it's coming along.
 
One thing that I didnt think of before. Will I have problems getting to the bolts to drop the transmission from under the car without pulling the motor? I was talking to a friend today and he mentioned it and I was unsure.
 
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/frm-ft1146a#
I think is actually the one, not sure on the other one.

Thank you. I appreciate it.
One thing that I didnt think of before. Will I have problems getting to the bolts to drop the transmission from under the car without pulling the motor? I was talking to a friend today and he mentioned it and I was unsure.

The bolts on the top of the trans are a pain but there is no need to remove the engine. Probably will have to remove the exhaust though.
 
with the automatic transmission if you have the stock fan remove the upper shroud, remove the distributor cap and rotor, cooling lines, torque converter bolts TV line and linkage. Then I would remove the crossmember and let the transmission down a few inches. Then I used a 24" extension with a 9/16" wobble socket for the top bolts on the bellhousing, then the other bolts on the bellhousing and then it's ready to be removed. It's way easier with a transmission jack but it can be done without one
 
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