Help Me Pass Emissions.

[TheSaint]

Rock Auto's listings for carbs

CHEVROLET > 1982 > MONTE CARLO > 3.8L 229cid V6 > Fuel & Air > Carburetor	Price	Core	Total
AUTOLINE C9608 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Rochester 2 Barrel; Reman. Info R2-E2ME; w/Closed Loop (w/Solenoid on Air Horn)		$316.79	$25.00	$341.79
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UNITED REMAN. 33694 Reman Info Carb E2ME		$342.79	$50.00	$392.79
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VAPEX 1806758 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Remanufactured Info Type: R2; Carb Model: E2ME; (W/FEEDBACK)		Out of Stock

Someone mentioned that we do something on here to not keep going over things we have discussed. I’m just unsure how to do so. Not super familiar with this site and how it operates, I just respond back. We talked about RockAuto and how at check out they will not send to CO because of some tax. Which is the only place I found a dualjet 210.

 

[TheSaint]

Did CO get a different carb I wonder? Or is OP's just not calibrated for the altitude? I could see that being the problem here. A non-feedback carb will run like crap up here and a feedback carb is likely limited in how much it can clean up.

After I rebuilt the carb I sent it to Texas where it was tested on a live engine. He said it ran down there at a certain level which with CO altitude would be equivalent.

 

[mstravens]

I’ve known it ran rich from the get go, so I asked around and done what I’ve been told to do first. (I’m no mechanic) this is a car I mess around with on the weekends. I’ve used the internet, books and other people’s suggestions to get me to this point. My bad for boggling your enormous brain, by not leading with the codes. I’ve asked for help because I’ve thought joining this forum would be helpful considering I’m not a gear head that has knowledge of every engine out there such as yourself. Thanks for the diagnosis on what even my unintelligent brain figured out all ready! Ha! It’s RICH!

You do not need a new carb or hotter plugs. First try this run your fuel tank down to approx. 1/4 full. Find gas station that sells E-85 in your area then add 2-5 gal to tank. Drive on freeway in cycles 65-85 mph. Then go to someplace like Auto zone and have codes erased. Set idle speed rpm to Factory setting no more or less. Drive car for a day see if Engine light remains off. If it does go to test station. If that does not work you can lower float level 1/16 inch and jet 2 sizes leaner. Good luck from Oregon

 

[TheSaint]

You do not need a new carb or hotter plugs. First try this run your fuel tank down to approx. 1/4 full. Find gas station that sells E-85 in your area then add 2-5 gal to tank. Drive on freeway in cycles 65-85 mph. Then go to someplace like Auto zone and have codes erased. Set idle speed rpm to Factory setting no more or less. Drive car for a day see if Engine light remains off. If it does go to test station. If that does not work you can lower float level 1/16 inch and jet 2 sizes leaner. Good luck from Oregon

E-85? Wouldn’t that mess up the engine?

 

[Bitterman]

E-85? Wouldn’t that mess up the engine?

I'm not sure 2 to 5 gallons is going to mess anything up. I've had family members that have accidentally run a full tank (16 or so gallons) of E85 with no issues.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

If the rebuild kit has cheap seals then E85 will quickly eat them.

 

[JimmyCamino]

So what's the plan?

You sure it's going into closed loop? I don't see a simple trouble code for that. If the diverter valve isn't working properly it could be pumping air into the exhaust manifolds when it should be pumping into the catalytic converter and helping to oxidize those hydrocarbons. No?

 

[mstravens]

E-85? Wouldn’t that mess up the engine?

If the E85 helps you pass emission test then fill tank up with what ever grade of fuel you use and drive it until empty. Please do not just park car and let it sit for extended time . As other people on this forum have correctly suggested the E85 is very corrosive to Old Carbs, seals and fuel lines.

 

[303'505rollin]

My 81 was a 229 and would pass emissions till I stopped driving it in 08 and I was living in Longmont boulder CO so it can be done. E-85 is like the old rubbing alcohol trick its soso. It's a 2bbl so theres not much to it but if it's been gone thru and set for altitude then I'd check timing and get it to run at the settings described on the emissions decal on the fan shroud, it may run like crap but that's what they will go by for your model year. Get your collector plates, should be cars 25 and older still

 

[ck80]

My 81 was a 229 and would pass emissions till I stopped driving it in 08 and I was living in Longmont boulder CO so it can be done. E-85 is like the old rubbing alcohol trick its soso. It's a 2bbl so theres not much to it but if it's been gone thru and set for altitude then I'd check timing and get it to run at the settings described on the emissions decal on the fan shroud, it may run like crap but that's what they will go by for your model year. Get your collector plates, should be cars 25 and older still

I'm wondering if theres something to the above suggestion... who rebuilt the carb previously? Was it a shop? Service? Ordered as a replacement?

And what manual did they use as for settings?

If it was sent out, it may have been done for lower altitude. It may not even be your original.

Many carb places, even mailout ones that tell you to send yours in, take yours as a core but just grab the body of another carb of similar style out of a bin and build it for you. Only later disassembling yours and running its parts through cleaner and plating for future use. In fact, sometimes you get the body from one carb, base from another, airhorn from a third. So it's important to vet who does the work.