I need Options.

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MalibuDavyou5

Master Mechanic
Mar 2, 2020
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A 6cyl to V8 swap will eat up a lot of a 1K budget.

Is that 1K for everything? Just for the motor? Just for the labor?
How quickly do you need it turned around & driveable?
Before the bearing failure, how did the car run/what was the state of mechanical reliability?
How quickly, well this is a project car, thus I don't need it right away, but having something happen now wouldn't hurt either.

I was able to drive this car for about two and a half weeks before this started, everything seemed fine at first, highest I had the car go was 55 mph while monitoring any fuel, oil, water, trans leaks which there where none. Hell even took my mother out shopping in the car and she loved the smooth ride it provided.

I couldn't gauge mechanical reliability, I don't know. Only thing I do know is these V6's are supposed to be bullet proof or hold their own really well as I am told.

1k is the budget I have right now, and from the looks of things I am going to have to go back to Ramen Noodle dinners for at least another month and half. Mosteller Auto Repair has not yet contacted me about any other engines they could find or labor cost and since I didn't hear from them today. It's likely it won't be until after the holiday that I would hear from them. Even then a used engine wouldn't be worth the money I am about to put out for installation. If they can't find anything I am just going to have the car towed back, I proceed with the body work, rust clean up and paint as I planned for my Summer. Save as I initially planned for an Engine Rebuild/ or New block.

For the money I have to spend on installation which I assume will be costly, I am to the point now that it probably would be best to get a new 229 block, https://www.jegs.com/i/ATK-Engines/059/DB30/10002/-1, Shipping from JEG's at least is free thus cutting the cost of the block down a bit. I would then later on put on a Turbo and other new accessories/parts later. putting in a 305-350 is just starting to seem like a pipe dream as it would be alittle more complicated and more parts than I can afford to handle. I am now convinced it's better just to get this new block that would make things easier, more compatible, and cost efficient to do plus have something low miles to start from.

I want to give you all who have shared your comments on this post a big thanks (y). Information here is very valuable to my determination on what's to do with this situation. Some times I just need a good reality check.
 

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
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For the money I have to spend on installation which I assume will be costly, I am to the point now that it probably would be best to get a new 229 block, https://www.jegs.com/i/ATK-Engines/059/DB30/10002/-1, Shipping from JEG's at least is free thus cutting the cost of the block down a bit.
$2,000 for a stock rebuild V6 you would be better off putting that towards a V8 swap, the V6's never lasted in the Gbody's since the cars were too heavy and people abuse them just to get the car moving, I would say more than 75% of the V8 swaps I have done in Gbody's were replacing rod knocking or non running V6's.
 
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MalibuDavyou5

Master Mechanic
Mar 2, 2020
365
776
93
Wyoming
$2,000 for a stock rebuild V6 you would be better off putting that towards a V8 swap, the V6's never lasted in the Gbody's since the cars were too heavy and people abuse them just to get the car moving, I would say more than 75% of the V8 swaps I have done in Gbody's were replacing rod knocking or non running V6's.

Yep the engine is knocking, but from the information I am getting it's going to be part accumulation. I remember the mechanic saying something about a plate but at the time I couldn't quite catch what he was saying over the phone. Either way I am still looking at having to get an Engine, a transmission to handle the V8 or a Torque converter, Exhaust heads and pipes, gaskets galore or close to, only thing really going for this kind of swap is the Accessories same as V6 and the Motor Mounts are same as I understand it. I am still looking at a mild 350 but the way things are going I don't know about a swap, my skills and knowledge are not up to par, it's actually starting to sound more discouraging than any good especially on a budget.
 
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ck80

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Feb 18, 2014
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Yep the engine is knocking, but from the information I am getting it's going to be part accumulation. I remember the mechanic saying something about a plate but at the time I couldn't quite catch what he was saying over the phone. Either way I am still looking at having to get an Engine, a transmission to handle the V8 or a Torque converter, Exhaust heads and pipes, gaskets galore or close to, only thing really going for this kind of swap is the Accessories same as V6 and the Motor Mounts are same as I understand it. I am still looking at a mild 350 but the way things are going I don't know about a swap, my skills and knowledge are not up to par, it's actually starting to sound more discouraging than any good especially on a budget.
Step 1: there's no, as in ZERO, good reason for the ship to source the engine. EVER.

All they're going to do is mark it up. They'll charge you $500 for something you could've gotten for $300. Any "warranty" on the engine isn't theirs... it's the guy they're getting it from guarantees it, and they pass that on to you.

Cut the middleman. If they won't install an engine you provide, find another shop.

Don't want to search craigslist or Facebook for a wrecked car/truck/pulled engine? Try car-part.com or copart.com

Step 2, I've seen you write a few times "transmission. Or a Torque converter" and that makes no sense. You don't fix the th200c issue by swapping a torque converter. If the shop is telling you those are the options go get your car right now because it sounds like a fly by night disaster.

Now, if this is a pure project car as you say, go pick it up, settle the bills, being it home, and take your time sorting out your swap. Take a month. Maybe save a few hundred extra. Find deals. I'd even go as far as suggesting the crazy - you KNOW your engine is junk. Pull it, disassemble in the garage, have the block heads etc tanked, then either turn the crank and reassemble with new bearings or buy a kit. You cane make it worse. Meanwhile do the above re:sbc parts. It's always better to learn on something where there's nothing to lose. If it works you bought time and built something. If not, you learned cheaply. Both are wins.
 
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