Of course its still not perfect but here is a couple side by side pictures of after I cleaned it hand scrubbing in the truck vs. now- View attachment 195623 View attachment 195624
It's a huge improvement and fine for a driver. Put some good all weather mats in it and call it good. Nice work. You put a lot of life back into it with that project.
It's a huge improvement and fine for a driver. Put some good all weather mats in it and call it good. Nice work. You put a lot of life back into it with that project.
Of course its still not perfect but here is a couple side by side pictures of after I cleaned it hand scrubbing in the truck vs. now- View attachment 195623 View attachment 195624
Took apart the radio and fixed the non functioning volume knob. Cleaned the contacts and reassembled. Works great now. As a side effect the cd player seems to be intermittently working. It didn't work at all before. PO even left me a Stones CD.
I picked up a toolbox off of FB marketplace for $40 yesterday. Didnt come with keys but for $40 I figured I couldn't lose. Well...
The welds holding the inner and outer lid panels together had broken on the one side. So I spent $20 on some of those low temp aluminum welding rods. They seem to have worked although I have limited faith in them.
On one of the "welds" I accidentally got the metal too hot and blew a nice nickel sized hole right through the diamond plate. Whoops. Took some trial and error but eventually I was able to fill it in with the aluminum rods. It's on the back side anyways.
I etched and polished the whole box and got it looking a lot shinier and replaced the foam gasket. Then had to spend another $17 on the clamps.
If I'd have known it was gonna be this much of a pain I probably just would've spent a little more on a nicer box but its on there now.
Been noticing a binding feeling around tight corners, I decided to investigate the cause and found the u-joint at the end of the front axle on the passenger side was shot. The one on the drivers side wasn't far behind. I replaced them with new Spicer u-joints. I went with sealed ones, they seem to last longer than the greasable type in my experience.
I found these emblems on a 3rd gen at the junkyard a few days ago and put new tape on them. I like the factory door emblems but I haven't found any in the junkyards and new ones are expensive. For now I'm gonna roll with them.
I changed the rear axle fluid yesterday. It was filthy. This truck does has a limited slip in the rear. I used Valvoline 75w140 synthetic in the flex fill pouches. The pouches are a neat idea.
After driving it around for ~15 miles, the rear started shuddering really bad. The Valvoline is supposed to have limited slip friction modifier already in it but apparently it doesn't have enough. I dumped in a bottle of Motorcraft XL3 that I had left over from something and it seemed to make no difference. So I rode over to O'Reilly's and bought two 4 oz bottles of Lubegard limited slip additive and added them. I then went to empty parking lot and did a dozen figure eights and the shudder now seems almost if not entirely gone.
I've never seen those, but I like. Squeezing the life out of a bottle is not only a pain in the *ss, but also only somewhat effective in the second half.
I'll buy one of the empties from you. It would be better if they came in a half gallon size lol.
I have a clear hose that fits inside the fill plug hole and I jam the other end of the hose on a quart container nipple. The hose is long enough so that I can stand next to rear wheel. Works 10 times better trying to squeeze it in from under the car. The downside is that when the diff is full, there might be a puddle. The upside is I have a better place (trunk lid) to set my beer while I'm filling the diff.
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