New engine no start issue

[Buford T. JuSStice]

The engine can handle 260, we saw that temperature in our circle track engines and they were just a GM crate. If you have synthetic oil you'll be of but if you have conventional oil I would change it

Yeah, it's Blueprint break in oil. Only supposed to be the engine a short period of time anyway so it'll get changed out even sooner instead.

 

[pontiacgp]

I don't see where you properly bled the cooling system. If you only used 3.5 gallons and have a big rad the system holds more than that. I would start the engine with the rad cap off and wait for all the air to work it's way out while topping the rad up when it needs it. Put the heater on hot while you are bleeding the system.

 

[Buford T. JuSStice]

Yeah somebody else mentioned doing that as well. Already on the to-do list for sure.

Swap out for the clutch fan, let out all the air in the coolant system, continue to keep an eye on the temperature like a hawk. If it still keeps creeping up, and the lower hose hasn't collapsed, then after shutting it down and letting it cool off, I'll up the idle air mixture to try and cool down combustion, and try to retard the static timing a bit. On the Blueprint website they recommend between 10-16 degrees BTDC, while the sheet I got said between 13-16. I want to make that a last resort though, because I believe the sheet was specific for the engine so I'd rather go with that than the website.

After that, if the engine seems to perform better and remain relatively cool, then I'll start fine tuning the engine to where it should be, set the total timing on the distributor, and change the oil.

 

[pontiacgp]

I have one of these sets to bleed the system, it works great and easy to use

 

[Buford T. JuSStice]

I used to sell those when I worked the commercial department at one of the chain parts stores. Shoulda picked one up then lol

 

[fleming442]

What happened to the old fill it up, leave the cap off, wait for the thermostat to open, and refill method? It's always worked fine for me (except my truck that doesn't have a cap).

 

[Buford T. JuSStice]

The burping technique did allow me to add some more coolant, but not a whole lot. I did notice that the lower hose started to collapse so I shut it off. The engine was at about 220 degrees, and I guess the release of pressure from the lower hose caused the radiator to flood up with coolant, so it spit out all that I put in and more... that was just [/i]slightly[/i] frustrating. On top of that, the engine dieseled on again for about 5-10 seconds until I covered the carb with a rag to cut off the oxygen.

So now I've got to get a new lower hose (one with a spring in it this time) and more coolant. Then I've got to figure out why it's dieseling and get it to stop doing that. For that I'm gonna drop the tank and empty out the old fuel and put in some higher octane stuff.

 

[Buford T. JuSStice]

On the bright side, the metal fan did seem to move more air, and until the hose started collapsing, it was staying stable at about 190-200 degrees. With my handy-dandy infra-red thermometer, the thermostat went up to about 170, and then started going down showing that the thermostat seems to be working.

 

[Jeff Blagden]

its a start I never run a bottom rad hose with out a spring good luck you are getting closer these thing always take time and patience 2 things I am not good at have a good day Jeff from Winnipeg

 

[fleming442]

Dieseling is just sh*t gas.