X2 on cardboard radiator cover. Doesn't cost much to try for a day or two. I've had a couple cars where that was just part of my winter prep.
Operation Lipstick on a Pig
- Thread starter fleming442
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You can also try swapping that motorad thermostat out for a Robertshaw.
Remember this Bruce? I thought I remembered this coming up before. I have seen 160 thermostats still heat the vehicle if they are opening/closing properly? Also, is there any way your coolant stream can bypass the engine through the heater?
From a year ago . . .
I finally fixed my blasted heater! The problem was 2 fold: first, the 180 thermostat I had in it was sticking open. That's why it cooled down so much on the highway. I dropped $30 on a new MotoRad 192 from NAPA, and it's rock steady, now. Second, the heater core was partially plugged with, I assume, DexCool mung from when I originally did the engine swap, prior to the rebuild as the heater core was new when I did the AC core. Flushed that out, and now the Pig is roasty-toasty!
From a year ago . . .
I finally fixed my blasted heater! The problem was 2 fold: first, the 180 thermostat I had in it was sticking open. That's why it cooled down so much on the highway. I dropped $30 on a new MotoRad 192 from NAPA, and it's rock steady, now. Second, the heater core was partially plugged with, I assume, DexCool mung from when I originally did the engine swap, prior to the rebuild as the heater core was new when I did the AC core. Flushed that out, and now the Pig is roasty-toasty!
Yeah, it was sticking open. Last night, I surgically removed the piece it was catching on.
If cardboard in front of the radiator makes it run warmer, then there is coolant bypassing the thermostat (cheap to check). Maybe put in an OE (AC Delco) thermostat. The whole problem might be the aftermarket thermostat. I'm not buying that cool air on the outside of the engine is overcoming the heat generated by combustion in the cylinders.
As we age, it is important to help each other [certainly me] remember things . . .
Now, what was I talking about? 🤔
Now, what was I talking about? 🤔
You know what I used to improve the heat in my Dakota? Two extra cylinders, the 5.9 vs the 3.9 went from freezing to acceptable. The bigger aftermarket heater core only helped a tiny bit. Our old 3.3 Caravan no heat at idle, new thermostats didn't help. Both our 3.5 and 3.6 Challenger's are good so manufacturers have worked out the bugs on small displacement aluminum V8's. Honestly my 88 Cutlass with two replacement heater cores and even the 403 in it barely had enough heat in it, had to be 200+ on the gauge to have acceptable heat. I would rate G bodies as poor winter vehicles along with bodies melting away with even a sniff of salt. My 81 Delta 88 was a great winter car, better heat and less rust issues.
My Accord 4 banger makes good heat. Had a Geo Metro back in the day that I could cold start, turn around in the street, and it would be blowing warm air before the stop sign which was around 200 yards away. Doesn't take much time to heat up a tin foil block apparently. You don't need a huge engine to make heat, just a cooling system that works right.
Yeah, those Metro's put out heat till -40 with the wind blowing going down the highway. Just flimsy little tin cans that got 50+ mpg.
Well, I flipped the heater core lines, and it had heat at 165-170*. See what happens in the morning.
If it's good, I'll change it out over the summer, and flush things. Might change the radiator, too.
If it's good, I'll change it out over the summer, and flush things. Might change the radiator, too.
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