Quadrajet RPM HELP!!!!!

g0thiac

G-Body Guru
Sep 6, 2020
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Working on my 1984 Cutlass, and the carburetor started to leak gas out the top.

Being that it needs a rebuild, I decided to use the one of my Pontiac Bonneville, which also has a Quadrajet with the same 305.

Swapped it, added new gasket- and ran as normal. Engine was cold since it was the first run.

I noticed the idle was a bit high, and the piece of sh*t screw for the fast idle on the left was stuck- and of course the useless thing stripped from the rust.

Everytime I kept pushing at it, my RPM's would slightly be interrupted.

So I shut the car off, and removed the choke, because the connector was broken and I wanted this vehicle strictly for non winter daily driving.

I know the secondaries require some linkage, but I just wanted to get the basics tuned first.

Well, I started the engine again after removing that stuff, and my RPM's are so high, just like the shitty *ss last time I did a Quadrajet swap and can NOT get the idle down.

Like, I am so angry right now. Unless there is a vacuum leak, from removing the electric choke stuff, I probably already damaged yet ANOTHER 305.

So please, ANYONE, help because I am soaked, covered in dirt, bleeding and have screamed enough already today 🤷‍♀️😭😭😭
 

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Clone TIE Pilot

Comic Book Super Hero
Aug 14, 2011
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The missing choke isn't a vacuum leak by it still bypasses the aircleaner, allowing extra and dirty air into the engine. Sort of like running the engine with the aircleaner lid off. Shouldn't a Cutlass have a Olds 307 and a 80's Pontiac have a Chevy 305? Olds and Chevy Qjets are setup differently and not directly interchangeable without some major work.
 
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g0thiac

G-Body Guru
Sep 6, 2020
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The missing choke isn't a vacuum leak by it still bypasses the aircleaner, allowing extra and dirty air into the engine. Sort of like running the engine with the aircleaner lid off. Shouldn't a Cutlass have a Olds 307 and a 80's Pontiac have a Chevy 305? Olds and Chevy Qjets are setup differently and not directly interchangeable without some major work.
Ok, so I don't need to plug any of the holes on the side?

I even removed the choke rod, still no change.

But yes, it's a 305, Canadian car as Pagrunt had nicely put it 😜😂😂😂
 
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ELCAM

Royal Smart Person
Jun 19, 2021
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If it had a hot air choke not an electric choke it will have a vacuum passage that needs to be plugged.
 
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g0thiac

G-Body Guru
Sep 6, 2020
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If it had a hot air choke not an electric choke it will have a vacuum passage that needs to be plugged.

It had an electric choke, but for all I know it could have been converted at some point.


As it seems like a vaccum leak, but only was a problem when engine warmed up.

It started off normal, so if it is choke related, what else would I have to remove here? The screw isn't there, to adjust so, the only other one is by the throttle cable- which works alright thankfully 😎🤘🤘🤘
 

Clone TIE Pilot

Comic Book Super Hero
Aug 14, 2011
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It had an electric choke, but for all I know it could have been converted at some point.


As it seems like a vaccum leak, but only was a problem when engine warmed up.

It started off normal, so if it is choke related, what else would I have to remove here? The screw isn't there, to adjust so, the only other one is by the throttle cable- which works alright thankfully 😎🤘🤘🤘
With the choke housing removed there is also no fast idle cam mechanism. So you only have curb idle, no fast idle. Only other item is the A/C kicker solenoid.
 
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g0thiac

G-Body Guru
Sep 6, 2020
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With the choke housing removed there is also no fast idle cam mechanism. So you only have curb idle, no fast idle. Only other item is the A/C kicker solenoid.
Right, so in theory- if there is no vacuum leak, there should be the one screw I have to use now, for adjustment to default RPM near the accelerator pump correct?

Because, when I had it started in the beginning, when I was still trying to adjust it with the choke still on- I tried driving it but in gear it was going too fast on it's own.

I really wish the electric choke, had of worked still because, I don't think I've had to struggle with those at all.
 

69hurstolds

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Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
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That vacuum leak for a hot air choke ain’t nothing to worry with. It is designed to leak pulling in air from the back of the carb and through the heat tubes into the choke housing. But if it’s bugging you a drip of solder or rtv and plug it. It would get dirt in there the way it is now so if it is a hot air choke that would be bad. But weren’t most mid 80s Chevy carbs electric choke?

Of course you will want to plug that big hole the choke shaft goes through as even with the air cleaner on tha hole will suck in dirty air.

Since you removed the choke stuff there’s no fast idle setting to worry about so that ain’t it.

Is this a CCC carb or no? It sounds like a no because of tweaking with everything.

First off, stop.

If the carb was working on your ponti just fine, but the original carb on the Olds was acting up and now the ponti carb is acting up, the common denominator seems to be your Olds 305. Correct me if I’m wrong here.

How are the carb and intake gaskets? EGR stuff? Anything leaking air where it shouldn’t? Power brake line snug?

Take the time and rebuild that Olds carb and put everything back to factory specs then go from there.

That’s where I’d start.
 
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