roof rot malibu

[malibujustin]

Unless it's been previously replaced, the windshield will be butyl set, not urethane.

FWIW, I just had the windshield replaced in my wagon...it was a Pilkington ( a descendant of L-O-F [libbey owens ford], the original supplier to GM) for $200.

Looks to be factory windshield.

 

[malibujustin]

Got roof rails on replacement panel off. Got to do a little more grinding to remove old metal.

 

[malibujustin]

Test fitting just a little bit...going to cut back edge straight. Think I am going to trim replacement panel to fit, as close as possible, before I cut out old roof on car. What do you guys think?

 

[Longroof79]

David,
I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I'm sure test fitting the roof gives you more perspective on what to expect.
Are you thinking of butt welding the pieces together, or flanging the joint as Bob 64 had suggested? If that's the way you decide, you'll need a tool like this http://www.eastwood.com/ew-panel-flanger.html
and again, that's if you decide to overlap the joints. I personally favor a butt welded joint...but that's me.

 

[malibujustin]

David,
I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I'm sure test fitting the roof gives you more perspective on what to expect.
Are you thinking of butt welding the pieces together, or flanging the joint as Bob 64 had suggested? If that's the way you decide, you'll need a tool like this http://www.eastwood.com/ew-panel-flanger.html
and again, that's if you decide to overlap the joints. I personally favor a butt welded joint...but that's me.

Thanks. I am going to fit and fit and fit again til it's close to what's on there as far as fitment. Then cut off old roof skin as needed. One of my friends has a hf resistance welder, I am going to bond-weld with adhesive and the resistance welder along the front and sides. I think!! Then ask pop to do his magic with the silver brazing along the roof top. None of this is written in stone except the test fit and re test fit.

 

[Texas82GP]

If it were me, I would flange the leading edge of what remains of the original roof and lay the patch on top. Then I would put the whole thing on with panel bonding adhesive. Then I would float the seam with Allmetal. Then bodywork as normal. I don't see anything wrong with your plan since you have such an experienced welder.

 

[malibujustin]

If it were me, I would flange the leading edge of what remains of the original roof and lay the patch on top. Then I would put the whole thing on with panel bonding adhesive. Then I would float the seam with Allmetal. Then bodywork as normal. I don't see anything wrong with your plan since you have such an experienced welder.

Thanks. That way is an option I have thought about also. I actually have a can of metal to metal filler that I have never opened. yes it sure helps having pops experience. He uses the silver like using lead.

 

[malibujustin]

Question....how would you guys remove all the small spot welds along the drip rail on the roof skin that's on the car? They seem to be smaller than the ones around windshield channel. Grind? Cutoff wheel? Smaller spot weld bit? Drill bit? The ones on replacement skin I just ground down etc. Was much easier on the replacement skin. Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

[Texas82GP]

If the spot weld cutter is too big, I'm thinking center punch and sharp drill bit.

 

[malibujustin]

Unless it's been previously replaced, the windshield will be butyl set, not urethane.

FWIW, I just had the windshield replaced in my wagon...it was a Pilkington ( a descendant of L-O-F [libbey owens ford], the original supplier to GM) for $200.

The windshield in it is pilkington...found one at local place for $205. Thanks