BUILD THREAD Rustier then I thought!!!
- Thread starter RabbitHoleSS
- Start date
- Status
You are killing it. It's looking awesome, love seeing you make progress because I know how much suck you are plowing through.
Don’t forget to profile the surfaces that are to receive body filler or putty. 80 grit DA or block sanding isn’t sufficient, 36 or 40 is what it’ll need for it to stick.
Be especially diligent about profiling the areas to receive filler that were previously hit with the Clean n Strip wheel. The C&S wheel doesn’t provide enough “tooth” for filler to stick to. A friend of mine that works in a bodyshop had a complete come back for warranty because the noob tech didn’t profile areas after using the C&S wheel and the filler was literally falling off.
Otherwise, great work so far! Excellent progress and nice to see an update again finally.
Be especially diligent about profiling the areas to receive filler that were previously hit with the Clean n Strip wheel. The C&S wheel doesn’t provide enough “tooth” for filler to stick to. A friend of mine that works in a bodyshop had a complete come back for warranty because the noob tech didn’t profile areas after using the C&S wheel and the filler was literally falling off.
Otherwise, great work so far! Excellent progress and nice to see an update again finally.
I only need axles with 5x4.75 wheel bolt pattern. My original plan was to put it in how I got it until I figured out it had 5x4.5 axles. A buddy of mine told me to have the axles drilled and be done with it.
Thanks. I appreciate the advice. The way time seems to be sucked away, I'll probably need a box of scotchbrite.
Honestly I'm pretty numb to this by now. I can definitely see how projects get bogged down and/or abandoned. Plus side is I only have the doors left to strip. I'm going on vacation 6-4 to 6-14. I hope to start the teardown of my truck to put the 6.0/4l80e in. The way things are shaking out its gonna start the rebirth without a standard transmission unfortunately.You are killing it. It's looking awesome, love seeing you make progress because I know how much suck you are plowing through.
Thanks. So 36 grit, filler, then epoxy or epoxy, 36 grit, then filler? I've read so much and seen it done both ways. I'm not sure but I feel like you put filler directly to bare metal on oldscool.
Yes, I always apply my fillers directly to bare metal. Always have, always will, although I know other people will put it on over epoxy. By applying it directly to bare metal it eliminates yet another possible failure point (filler not sticking to the epoxy and peeling off) IMO.
I’m also “ OLD SCHOOL “ the epoxy over your finished filler and metal seals it all real good. I also feel it’s adding an extra risk to go through all that BS. Using the epoxy at all is so much better than the old red oxide use to be. I’ve had my project sitting with 2 coats of epoxy and 2 coats of 2K for about 3 years since I did all the body work on stripped bare metal. I’ve recently got half the car painted with no adhesion problems at all. One point I’ve read many times is that if you sand epoxy, you have to recoat it with epoxy again before anything else. Just things that have worked for me with no problems.
Here in Houston it is very humid most of the time so we have to seal bare metal or it will flash rust quickly. On my brother's car, we stripped and epoxy primed the parts as we went. Then we scuffed it, outside of the recoat window (not necessarily on purpose, just how timing worked out). Then we did body work over the epoxy. Then we went over the body filler with more epoxy. Opinions vary on whether we did it right or not. One thing is for sure. We followed the data sheets to the letter, or believed we did.
We didn't profile anything with 36 grit. The only time we used 36 or 24 grit was grinding welds. Once the car was pretty straight (maybe 7/10), we handed it over to the painter. He scuffed the epoxy and covered it with high build and then started blocking. He did more body work over the high build and spotted those places in with more primer and did more blocking, etc.
Donovan's (Rktpwrd) knowledge in these areas is beyond question so I'm not saying he is wrong for a second. I'm just saying there are different ways to do it and different opinions. I've never liked the idea of filler on bare metal because of its porosity but I'm not and have never been a body man. I'm just a home enthusiast.
All I'm saying is that I think you'd be o.k. top coating the epoxy outside the recoat window as long as you scuff it (I know, sanding epoxy sucks) and my experience is that it's ok to apply filler over epoxy. I think that's the norm down here since it is so humid. At least six months of the year the wind blows out of the south off the Gulf of Mexico. The only time it's dry here is right after a weather front blows through.
We didn't profile anything with 36 grit. The only time we used 36 or 24 grit was grinding welds. Once the car was pretty straight (maybe 7/10), we handed it over to the painter. He scuffed the epoxy and covered it with high build and then started blocking. He did more body work over the high build and spotted those places in with more primer and did more blocking, etc.
Donovan's (Rktpwrd) knowledge in these areas is beyond question so I'm not saying he is wrong for a second. I'm just saying there are different ways to do it and different opinions. I've never liked the idea of filler on bare metal because of its porosity but I'm not and have never been a body man. I'm just a home enthusiast.
All I'm saying is that I think you'd be o.k. top coating the epoxy outside the recoat window as long as you scuff it (I know, sanding epoxy sucks) and my experience is that it's ok to apply filler over epoxy. I think that's the norm down here since it is so humid. At least six months of the year the wind blows out of the south off the Gulf of Mexico. The only time it's dry here is right after a weather front blows through.
My initial post to the OP was less about the debate on whether or not to apply filler over or under epoxy as both are acceptable. Rather, the emphasis was originally intended to be on making sure the areas he hit with the Clean n Strip wheel were properly and sufficiently profiled so that the filler will stick to those areas.
Just wanted to reiterate and make that clear.
And I'm definitely not trying to debate you friend. I'm glad he has your perspective on it. I just wanted to add mine. I don't think anyone can argue with the results that you get.
- Status
Similar threads
