The only problem with the above method (just a bolt with a regular nut) is if you ever did have to remove a body mount the nut will just spin and then you have to cut open from above again
That is what I couldn't practically understand. How is spraying the head of a 3" bolt that has a shaft encased in rubber going to help in removing it when the penetrate is going to need to work against gravity through the rubber encasing into a fully encased nut and to the threads of the bolt?
It seemed like a waste of two or three $4 cans of PB.
With that said, I like the idea of cutting above and welding it back. That sounds like a plan of attack. I also like this alternative to cage nuts.
I'm in the process of reintroducing the body to the frame and I'm torn on how to proceed. During removal the cage nuts were toast at my #1 and 2 front body mounts, along with #6 and 7 passenger side body mounts. Seen here: Option #1: Fabricate new cage nuts and weld them in. Option #2: Weld...
The only problem with the above method (just a bolt with a regular nut) is if you ever did have to remove a body mount the nut will just spin and then you have to cut open from above again
With the nuts just there and the metal just cut away exposing them there is no way to hide those bolts and nothing to keep someone from cutting themselves on it.But all that safety crap aside if you weld a 1 inch long strap to the nut that will jam it against the frame to tighten it and keep it from spinning when you go to remove it.(just not those self locking bolts with the plastic inside)
Also you can make your own cage for the new nuts by bending some thick sheetmetal into a square and welding it in place (with the new nut captured inside) above the body bushing area exactly where the old one was.
With the nuts just there and the metal just cut away exposing them there is no way to hide those bolts and nothing to keep someone from cutting themselves on it.But all that safety crap aside if you weld a 1 inch long strap to the nut that will jam it against the frame to tighten it and keep it from spinning when you go to remove it.(just not those self locking bolts with the plastic inside)
Also you can make your own cage for the new nuts by bending some thick sheetmetal into a square and welding it in place (with the new nut captured inside) above the body bushing area exactly where the old one was.
I used a new product from Sea Foam called deep creep. I had been spraying
once a week for the past 3 months. I already have 3 that broke off on their own ( 2 in the truck on passenger side, and 1 behind the wheel on drivers. I actually got the rest to break loose by hand. Not ready to change them yet, but I pulled each bolt out and used anti-seize on the treads and tightened them back up a little. After I get the frame welded up in the back, body mounts are next.
I got all of mine changed out since I last posted in this thread. I had to do the timo22 trick and drilled an 1/8” hole in my trunk floor for the back 2. Drilled right above the nut and sprayed fluid Film ( aerosol version) with the straw in the hole. 2 days later I got back to them and they came right out.
I used a new product from Sea Foam called deep creep. I had been spraying
once a week for the past 3 months. I already have 3 that broke off on their own ( 2 in the truck on passenger side, and 1 behind the wheel on drivers. I actually got the rest to break loose by hand. Not ready to change them yet, but I pulled each bolt out and used anti-seize on the treads and tightened them back up a little. After I get the frame welded up in the back, body mounts are next.
I got all of mine changed out since I last posted in this thread. I had to do the timo22 trick and drilled an 1/8” hole in my trunk floor for the back 2. Drilled right above the nut and sprayed fluid Film ( aerosol version) with the straw in the hole. 2 days later I got back to them and they came right out.
Wow nice for you. I need to replace the rear horns. I am hoping I can get this done by just freeing up the 3 Rear bushing on each side. What you think?
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