Suck N Blow Monte
- Thread starter Turbo Zach
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You mean the actual intake manifold? I never got one as I was going to use the turbo as a blow through not draw through. And I run Chevy engines so they didn't exist. I had thought about making an adapter plate to bolt it to but I dropped that idea pretty quickly.
Sometimes I wonder!! You play with what you have. I was dirt poor at the time and was just trying to use the junk I had. Never in my wildest dreams would that 283 Frankenstein turbo ever perform like my car does now. I had all kinds of ideas but small things would keep them from working. I actually had that turbo installed in the car. Only fed from one bank, but it wouldn't spool. That's when I heard about those turbos being designed for a wet compressor. Would have been quite laggy but should have worked. I blew up the th200 power braking in the driveway. It's been an interesting 8 years with this car.
This is pretty neat: http://fitechefi.com/products/30012/
That sounds good on paper, but like the 600 horsepower version has any one got it all to work? Holley is proven to work!
I don't have much of an update, but there you go. I got all my shiny parts all painted. Put my intake tube and filter on were it going to stay now. Mounted my a/c lines with the special clamps. As a side note. I had a damaged package from Gbody Parts. I contacted them, and they replaced the missing parts with out any hasel. All my dealings with them have all been good.
I bought some heat tape and tryed rapping my a/c line. One reson is the heat from the downpipe and the other reason was to hide the dent or kink I put in the tube.
But it looked like trash so I took it off! I may try header rap some time.
I have been thinking about putting a heat shield on my turbo. I know a blanket cover will work better, but I think a cover will give it a more stock feel. What do you guy's think? If anyone has a turbo shield j braket laying around I am looking for one. My build is going to slow down now for a while. I am out of money and have a 1000 dollar bill at the machine shop for some skid loader engine parts. So I have to take care of that first. That's it for now.
Sure seems like it; and now chaps are modding them for 210pph injectors: https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-i...ied-fitech-70050-70051-a-18.html#post19830742 evidently there is a facebook page? I don't use facebook very much.
I didn't realize it has been a month since the last post on here. Well I have not given up yet. Just running low on funds. I had to pay the machine shop 1000 bucks to get my CNH engine back. That kind of hurt the parts buying for a while. Any ways, what I have been working on lately. After a lot of thought as to where and how to mount my knock, wideband, and boost gauge. Here is what I came up with.
My interior is pretty nice and original, so I do not want to modify it much. I want the car to look mostly original with better wheels. I know my windows are pretty dark and I plan to change the darkness of the tint in the future . I wanted to mount two gauges in the bread box, but I found only one will fit because of the divider and the door hinges. I plan to put an a just able boost switch in the cubby hole in the bread box. That way when I close the bread box you will not see it. I don't really like the double gauge mount, but it was the best I could come up with. When you look through the windows you don't see it, but is in a good line of sight when driving. I am using a PLX wideband and Multi gauge. Basically, because I pieced it together from people selling used stuff. I like the PLX multi gauge, because it is mostly black when off, touch screen, and if I buy more boxes I can monitor any thing I want with the one gauge.
Now the knock gauge has gotten more expensive and complicated. You can not just buy the gauge and put it, unless you have a computer in your car. Witch I don't. I found I can not run the gauge with my factory ESC module, because it doesn't send a signal to a ECM computer. So I had to buy a newer style Esc module and pigtail. I will show you guys what you need when the parts show up. At least I found a deal on the knock gauge used, so that helps. 40 bucks instead of 80. I just don't like the turbo six emblem on it. I have been working on some of the wiring and a stuff lately, but not much to show there. After some thought I decided to remove the factory ESC module and wiring harness. That way I do not have the extra wiring and crap in my way. I am going to use the body grommet to run other wiring into the cab.
I found the ESC system was completely a stand alone deal on my car. The ignition wire for the distributor plugs into the harness instead of the distributor. So I just unplugged it. Here is some pictures of the system for those of you that might be curious.
Sorry, but that is all I got for now. Comment all ways welcome!
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