Suck N Blow Monte

[Turbo Zach]

I have a update. I found some time yesterday to do a little work . I took my new to me distributor apart and replaced the reluctor wheel. Some one ground the fins off the old one for a different application.

That kind of was a bag of snakes. The new reluctor wheel was not from MSD it was some aftermarket one for a MSD I guess. The quality was not the same. After dropping the little reluctor pin in dirt about four times, it would not fit in the groove. I had to drill the groove in the wheel out. After I got the distributor back together I moved on to the turbo drain hole. I had to remove the water pump so I would have enough room for the drill. Drilled a hole through the block, and tapped it to pipe thread.

The later turbo blocks come with a thick boss and a hole in about the same location. The other option would have been to tap into the oil pan.

Well that is done! Next project on the list is the valve seals and valve springs.

 

[Turbo Zach]

I put my distributor in to see how much clearance I have for the accessory brackets. Not going to fit with out some modifications. I want to put A/C back on the car when I am done. That is why I am trying to use the accessory brackets from a 87 turbo engine. I could buy a expensive Champion bracelet, but I will not have A/C. Not sure what I am going to do yet. I am questioning using a distributor or going some other route. Any ideas on how to go with out a distributor and keep it simple for a dummy like me?

 

[Turbo Zach]

Here are some pictures of what I am dealing with. The distributor keeps the top left bolt hole from lining up.

 

[motorheadmike]

For $999 you are going to be hard pressed to do better than the Sniper EFI setup. It is good to 650hp, and can be used in a boosted application.

https://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?20218-Sniper-EFI-Blow-Through-Setup

Based on what I am seeing is that you can run your current distributor and have the Sniper control timing - so set the base timing and your target, and call it done. Since you are going to be running a boost referenced fuel system anyway, this seems like a winner to me. Also, remember that in the 80s and 90s there were lots of 1bar systems running FMUs on forced induction applications - as the long as the AFR, octane and timing is on point who cares? Also, turbo Buicks were long limited to 255g/s in their MAFs at WOT - and those cars got pushed well beyond that code limited ceiling.

 

[Turbo Zach]

For $999 you are going to be hard pressed to do better than the Sniper EFI setup. It is good to 650hp, and can be used in a boosted application.

https://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?20218-Sniper-EFI-Blow-Through-Setup

Based on what I am seeing is that you can run your current distributor and have the Sniper control timing - so set the base timing and your target, and call it done. Since you are going to be running a boost referenced fuel system anyway, this seems like a winner to me. Also, remember that in the 80s and 90s there were lots of 1bar systems running FMUs on forced induction applications - as the long as the AFR, octane and timing is on point who cares? Also, turbo Buicks were long limited to 255g/s in their MAFs at WOT - and those cars got pushed well beyond that code limited ceiling.

That is what I am thinking. I am not sure if I will go with the Fitech Power Adder or the Holley Sniper. The things that kind of intimidate me is the tuning side. I have never played with computer side of things yet. Expect me to ask lots of silly questions later when I get to that point.

 

[Turbo Zach]

I got some work done on the car this afternoon. I changed out the valve seals and valve springs. I got the new Comp valve springs in a deal when I bought my turbo. So i decided to use them. These Buick turbo engines only have valve seals on the intake valves. The exhaust valves or special to these engines. I don't think I will do that again with the heads on and engine in the car. What a misrable son of a buick that was! My wife and three year old daughter came in the shed right when I dropped the same valve keeper for the fourth time. They got a ear full of my potty mouth. Some of them went the way they should and some of them faught me to the bitter end. I am glad that is done. Here is a picture of the tool I used.

I need to do a few odd ends, and then I am ready to start asembling this thing. Next I am going to clean the block and paint it a little bit. You will not see much of the block when I am done, so I am not too worried about how the paint turns out. Just don't want it to stick out with the freshly painted intake and valve covers. I think I am going to wrap my headers and down pipe before I put them on. That will help with the under hood temps and keep my plug wires and such from melting. Stay tuned. It is going to start looking like some thing soon.

 

[motorheadmike]

Be careful with wrapping the stock thin-walled headers as they are prone to cracking. Also installing the springs without the cups is a good idea considering it is probably a high-mileage stock cam.

 

[Zacheus]

That is what I am thinking. I am not sure if I will go with the Fitech Power Adder or the Holley Sniper. The things that kind of intimidate me is the tuning side. I have never played with computer side of things yet. Expect me to ask lots of silly questions later when I get to that point.

Google Holley sniper forum lots of info on there

 

[Turbo Zach]

Google Holley sniper forum lots of info on there

I did. Thank you. I am leaning towards the Holley Sniper now. The only thing you need is a boost refrenced fuel pressure regulator to make it work. I will be able to run my timing with the Holley and not need any other controller.

 

[Turbo Zach]

Did a little work today. I scrubbed the engine with solvent and gave it some color. I know the paint will not last too long, but at least it will be presentable for a while.

The engine is going to make the rest of the engine bay look like crap. I did power wash the engine bay before I parked it, but there was so much stuff in the way before. I will probably do it again in the spring after I get it running again. Should have just pulled the engine and did it right, but I didn't so all well. I did get some other parts cleaned up and painted too.

Getting ready to asembl the engine stay tuned!