Vortec intake gaskets
- Thread starter Texas82GP
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If you decide not to use the GM gaskets let me know if you can't return them and I'll buy them from you
3rd set of 1255's here. Patriot Steel heads, GMPP alum Intake, ARP bolts
First set sealed fine, then I wiped a lobe a few years later causing me to take the intake off.
Second set leaked antifreeze on the PS fouling the plugs causing hard start when parked for a more than a few days
Third set seems to be sealing fine. No longer have the hard starts or disappearing coolant.
Torqued mine to 20 ft\lbs to split the difference between instructed and the internet LOL
On install I used a dab of RTV to hold them in place north and south until I dropped the intake in place.
First set sealed fine, then I wiped a lobe a few years later causing me to take the intake off.
Second set leaked antifreeze on the PS fouling the plugs causing hard start when parked for a more than a few days
Third set seems to be sealing fine. No longer have the hard starts or disappearing coolant.
Torqued mine to 20 ft\lbs to split the difference between instructed and the internet LOL
On install I used a dab of RTV to hold them in place north and south until I dropped the intake in place.
Intake gaskets - prefer the paper style due to the torque requirements. Meaning that I do not prefer a gasket that requires less than 15 ft/lbs on a 3/8 bolt as I don't feel that is enough. Intake bolt torque is something that should be checked routinely and after several heat initial cycles. This isn't much of an issue until an intake like a stock TPI or Accel super ram is used. Also I've found that using a sealant such as 592 teflon seems to act like a low level thread locker if it is allowed to sit for more than a day prior to startup. Most of my present builds involve boost and a leaking intake gasket allowing oil into an intake runner/cylinder can turn catastrophic at 13+:1 effective compression ratio in a moment due to oil induced detonation. Basically, once I began using the 592 as described above I am yet to find a loose intake bolt and leaking intake gasket - take it FWIW.
Regarding coolant,I want to say first that most any coolant functions whether it's a glycol based, SCA enhanced for extended life coolant. The real confusion comes with colors. No matter what you've heard, color of coolant has ABSOLUTELY no bearing on what type of coolant it is. Green, red, orange, purple, brown is not relevant. The color identification issue is the most common mistake made with coolant. Most car people are oblivious to this, but in the heavy truck world this is a critical issue. Mixing an SCA based coolant with an ELC basically gives you water with a lowered freeze point - ABSOLUTELY no corrosion protection. Also, all coolant has a service interval, be aware of it and follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
Personally, I use ELC in all of our hot rods due to the 300K mile service interval, it's readily available, it's designed for system that contain both iron and aluminum and it's somewhat economical. But the bottom line is to 'use what you use' - don't mix varying types and assume that color has any value. I.e. - if you're using Dexcool, then use Dexcool and nothing else.
And lastly, if for some reason you have to add/mix varying type of coolants due to necessity, then at the next available chance drain and flush your system, and then refill with your coolant of choice.
Regarding coolant,I want to say first that most any coolant functions whether it's a glycol based, SCA enhanced for extended life coolant. The real confusion comes with colors. No matter what you've heard, color of coolant has ABSOLUTELY no bearing on what type of coolant it is. Green, red, orange, purple, brown is not relevant. The color identification issue is the most common mistake made with coolant. Most car people are oblivious to this, but in the heavy truck world this is a critical issue. Mixing an SCA based coolant with an ELC basically gives you water with a lowered freeze point - ABSOLUTELY no corrosion protection. Also, all coolant has a service interval, be aware of it and follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
Personally, I use ELC in all of our hot rods due to the 300K mile service interval, it's readily available, it's designed for system that contain both iron and aluminum and it's somewhat economical. But the bottom line is to 'use what you use' - don't mix varying types and assume that color has any value. I.e. - if you're using Dexcool, then use Dexcool and nothing else.
And lastly, if for some reason you have to add/mix varying type of coolants due to necessity, then at the next available chance drain and flush your system, and then refill with your coolant of choice.
that's very informative post and nicely written, where did you find the torque specs for the bolts for the paper style gaskets
Thanks for your input. I really appreciate it. Do you install the gaskets dry or do you put something on them? What do you torque the bolts to? I too am not crazy about torquing the intake bolts to 11 ft. lbs. which is why I still haven't made up my mind on this deal. For the record, the intake bolts are only 5/16" but still, 11 ft. lbs. is not much. If I'm reading the chart in this link right, only about 25 ft. lbs. is recommended for a 5/16"-18 Grade 8 bolt. What do you think?
http://www.almabolt.com/pages/catalog/bolts/tighteningtorque.htm
67 Chevy engine manual for a 327. I should mention that the spec is for a steel intake. Obviously the steel is a bit more resistant to warping. When in doubt, follow the manufacturers recommendation. More on that below.
1st, I wouldn't use a gasket requires 11 ft/lbs without some form of thread locker.
2nd, regarding sealant on intake gaskets - around the intake ports they should be installed dry and around the water ports a thin film of silicone unless the head or intake has some pitting. If pitting is present, then just enough to fill the pits.
3rd, 25lbs if into almuinum heads and 30 into iron heads - make sure the threads are clean via a thread chaser prior to install. A tap can be used, but if the threads aren't good, then your tap will be cutting more than the bad spots in the threads.
The GM gaskets showed up this afternoon and no bolts were included. The listing said they were, but no bolts. The little tech sheet doesn't say anything about special bolts. Now what to do? Time for more research.
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