What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2020]
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Couldn't find one for mine, wound up bending my own using the original routing. Not terribly hard to do, but it is tough to get the tight bend at the bottom without kinking.
Also much less expensive, and no waiting. Might be an option for them?
This is a followup for CBenson, about the Holley Throttle lever and the TV cable adaptor.
What you see here is the adaptor that Holley offers to attach to the Throttle lever to accept the TV Cable. This particular version is bolted to a Holley 650 Spread Bore that came off my 85 Monte Carlo back when it ran a TH200R4. It is attached to the basic throttle lever using two bolts. As the picture shows, one does dual duty as it has the mushroom shaped tit that the TV cable end fits over. The other is either a 1/4 or 5/16 grade 5 capscrew that I machined the head down on to gain clearance for the cable to move past without binding or hanging up. That was just a few minutes work on a lathe or you can go tribal and do it with a 4.5 angle grinder and a flapwheel.
For the sake of comparison, this is a picture of the throttle lever from my 600 Cathedral Bowl Centre Float Holley. Note that the Throttle lever for this carb does not offer the same mounting point for the adapter as the 650 did. At the very bottom of the throttle lever there is the ear to which the return springs hook up and immediately above and ahead of that there is another tab that has been drilled. This would be the probable mounting point for that bolt with the mushroom head on it that is pictured above. That part has a part number and should be in the Holley parts catalogue.
For the keen eyed readers among you, my description of this carb is not incorrect. But, you dispute, Holley never made a Cathedral Bowl, or center float version of the 600 CFM. So What?? To paraphrase a classic, they may not have, but I did. The conversion is not difficult and the parts are, you guessed it, in the catalogue, or you can hit a swap meet or go on line or find someone with a stash and do some shopping. The conversion made it a lot easier to drop the bowls and swap jets and do other tweaks. To make life simpler along the way, I used Moroso bowl gaskets and opened up the feed holes using a gasket punch, along with their nylon bowl bolt washers that can get re-used almost forever. I did go with the early slotted head bowl screws to begin with but found the later hex-head ones to be easier to work with and torque down correctly.
If nothing else the look does make people do a double take, or would have if it had been somewhere they could see it; as it was this carb was the one I ran on my other "G" model, that being my Chev G10 Van!. Finally bit the bullet and swapped it out for an FI. Why? Mostly because to make and keep Holley's doing what they do best, you have to keep after them. They are fickle mistresses and hate both humidity and changes in barometric pressure, all of which means they are better suited for life in Arizona as opposed to Louisiana or Florida. In a car with a hood to pop, doing the incessant tuning would have been a little easier to pursue. The van required that I take a large chunk of the dash apart and pull the doghouse to gain access. I actually ran with the house off a few time during one tuning run just to be able to get immediate access for tweaks. All kinds of fun sitting beside a small block with nothing between you and it except a smile!
Anyway, CBenson, hope this finally offers you the details you were looking for. For setting up the cable tension, as I commented elsewhere, find a manual. it is not complicated but has to be done right or you could lose the t-mission to internal suicide.
Nick
What you see here is the adaptor that Holley offers to attach to the Throttle lever to accept the TV Cable. This particular version is bolted to a Holley 650 Spread Bore that came off my 85 Monte Carlo back when it ran a TH200R4. It is attached to the basic throttle lever using two bolts. As the picture shows, one does dual duty as it has the mushroom shaped tit that the TV cable end fits over. The other is either a 1/4 or 5/16 grade 5 capscrew that I machined the head down on to gain clearance for the cable to move past without binding or hanging up. That was just a few minutes work on a lathe or you can go tribal and do it with a 4.5 angle grinder and a flapwheel.
For the sake of comparison, this is a picture of the throttle lever from my 600 Cathedral Bowl Centre Float Holley. Note that the Throttle lever for this carb does not offer the same mounting point for the adapter as the 650 did. At the very bottom of the throttle lever there is the ear to which the return springs hook up and immediately above and ahead of that there is another tab that has been drilled. This would be the probable mounting point for that bolt with the mushroom head on it that is pictured above. That part has a part number and should be in the Holley parts catalogue.
For the keen eyed readers among you, my description of this carb is not incorrect. But, you dispute, Holley never made a Cathedral Bowl, or center float version of the 600 CFM. So What?? To paraphrase a classic, they may not have, but I did. The conversion is not difficult and the parts are, you guessed it, in the catalogue, or you can hit a swap meet or go on line or find someone with a stash and do some shopping. The conversion made it a lot easier to drop the bowls and swap jets and do other tweaks. To make life simpler along the way, I used Moroso bowl gaskets and opened up the feed holes using a gasket punch, along with their nylon bowl bolt washers that can get re-used almost forever. I did go with the early slotted head bowl screws to begin with but found the later hex-head ones to be easier to work with and torque down correctly.
If nothing else the look does make people do a double take, or would have if it had been somewhere they could see it; as it was this carb was the one I ran on my other "G" model, that being my Chev G10 Van!. Finally bit the bullet and swapped it out for an FI. Why? Mostly because to make and keep Holley's doing what they do best, you have to keep after them. They are fickle mistresses and hate both humidity and changes in barometric pressure, all of which means they are better suited for life in Arizona as opposed to Louisiana or Florida. In a car with a hood to pop, doing the incessant tuning would have been a little easier to pursue. The van required that I take a large chunk of the dash apart and pull the doghouse to gain access. I actually ran with the house off a few time during one tuning run just to be able to get immediate access for tweaks. All kinds of fun sitting beside a small block with nothing between you and it except a smile!
Anyway, CBenson, hope this finally offers you the details you were looking for. For setting up the cable tension, as I commented elsewhere, find a manual. it is not complicated but has to be done right or you could lose the t-mission to internal suicide.
Nick
Got a header panel head lamp light bezel bucket ( i feel like i should add thingy to the end of that cause i have no idea what its really called) to replace the one i mangled trying to change a headlight.
I though about that, either they could fabricate a line or use hose which would be quicker, thus far I have not heard back from them so I am assuming for the time being that they may have found one somewhere and are awaiting the package to arrive.
Got new rubber on the front Friday.
Ope governor kit is illegal. Better send it back...
Ope governor kit is illegal. Better send it back...
Washed my baby! I don’t care if I got body work on the side 
Hmmm, looks to me like a headlight bucket for a Square body Chev Pickem up, maybe mid 80's? 84-85?? Your sample looks remarkably like the ones I have for my 85 Monte SS. Took me about a dozen to assemble four that were in good shape to begin with and could be cleaned up and painted.
Your illegal kit even comes with a Proposition 65 warning on the label! From the sheer number of products that seem to come with that warning on them, one could conclude that the entire state of California is a festering pit of cancer causing goo that ought to be excised from he union and towed out to sea to be blown up and sunk. Only problem would be the pollution that would result; maybe better to leave it along and just cocoon it in a state round perimeter of yellow "Warning! Enter at Your Own Risk" bunting.
First was 2020
Original paint 263K miles
Original paint 263K miles
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