What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2020]

[pontiacgp]

Took the Monte to class yesterday so that I could go straight to from it to the car show, well once I got to class I am walking away and hear a nice hiss. Look underneath and the antifreeze is blowing out of the rad cap, now it was really hot out so the temp got up to like 215 on the Sniper but shows totally spiked on the Dakota. So I am thinking there is still an air bubble in it, but still really leaning towards just replacing the rad and going electric fan. Put some water in it to replace what came out and drove it to the car show with no problems. Once it got dark even went for a little drive with my uncle in his T/A and my buddy in his NSX without it really heating up. Was really impressed with this at the show, there was a pretty good turnout of nice stuff
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you need a new rad cap, 215° isn't overheating. Don't you have an overflow container?

 

[mclellan83]

you need a new rad cap, 215° isn't overheating. Don't you have an overflow container?

I do have an overflow, but I don't think it is that. Sorry I got sidetracked and just hit send so that I could get back to what I was doing, but that's my conundrum though that its a 16psi cap. Wondering if there is an issue with head gasket or something pressuring the rad? Just need to get some time to get to trouble shooting, was just hoping that I was at the drive it and enjoy stage but we know that would be too optimistic

 

[pontiacgp]

I do have an overflow, but I don't think it is that. Sorry I got sidetracked and just hit send so that I could get back to what I was doing, but that's my conundrum though that its a 16psi cap. Wondering if there is an issue with head gasket or something pressuring the rad? Just need to get some time to get to trouble shooting, was just hoping that I was at the drive it and enjoy stage but we know that would be too optimistic

if that is a stock overflow you'll see it bubbling if there is pressure build up from a leaking head gasket. Any overflow from the rad will lift the lower seal to allow the overflow flow to the overflow tan. There is another upper seal on the rad cap and you should never see your rad cap allowing any coolant to leak out

 

[mclellan83]

if that is a stock overflow you'll see it bubbling if there is pressure build up from a leaking head gasket. Any overflow from the rad will lift the lower seal to allow the overflow flow to the overflow tan. There is another upper seal on the rad cap and you should never see your rad cap allowing any coolant to leak out

It's not a stock overflow so can't really see much since its one of those minimal billet setups, I am sure once I start diagnosing I will be able to see a little better in there. I really didn't want to grab it when it was so hot yesterday. That's why I believe there is more wrong that just the cap since it was venting out the top of it, but greatly appreciate the input as always

 

[WanaBa442]

Removed the original chrome mirrors (drivers side remote was broken).
Got sick of readjusting the mirror every time you shut the door.
Had these:


Replaced with a set of sport mirrors off a beat up white 442 😉
Got custom mixed enamel in a rattle can, and ended up like this:

 

[oldsmobile joe]

I broke it. This was yesterday, actually, I finally made it here to share my lamentations with folks who might give a sh*t. I had made a 3 point turn to hurry back home as the cars coming in the opposite direction were soaked from the looming thunderstorm. Yes, I'm one of those guys, didn't want the car to get wet. Accelerating through second into third, I felt something in the transmission go and now I cannot get any gears. It will stay in park, but nothing anywhere else. Its a 2004r that was rebuilt last year, trans-go kit, cleaned, completely refreshed. Then the tow company pulled down my pants for $100 to take the car 2 miles to my garage. A close friend who is a master mechanic offered to stop by to make sure that it is not something "goofy", but my spider sense tells me otherwise. Here's hoping it is, but you know that feeling in your gut...Ive got that feeling in my gut.

So, the transmission is probably nuked. Who knows what the shop who rebuilt is going to tell me, probably nothing I want to hear.

Happy Independence Day!

I did a similiar thing with my 200-4r. The stator in the stock torque converter broke. No other damage. Swapped torque converters with a stronger unit, good to go.

 

[Wageslave]

Went digging into various boxes and cans and containers in search of my mia sending unit for the oil gauge on my 85.

View attachment 150439

And here is what I found. All three of the double terminal sending units more or less match the existing harness in the engine bay. I say more or less but it is actually less because someone at some time in the past modified the wiring plug by cutting off one of the female contacts. Not sure why but conjecture that one or the other of the male ends was the external ground and whoever did the hack job didn't need it anymore. it is possible that they switched to one or the other of the single terminal versions of the sending unit. Personally I happen to like the one on the lower right of the picture. It is short and would likely screw right into the block port without any adaptors needed. What came out of the old motor was the large ell and one of the two terminal units. That was probably the OEM and the ell was used to shift the unit out of the way of the distributor. I can use either of the brass adaptor ells and the small ended senders.
Just wondering for the sake of knowing for sure, which of the combinations was what would have been found on the block to begin with? That aside I will be having to replace the terminal plug for the unit one way or another because what is left is so crippled that it will probably break during install. Think I have one hanging off another harness that I salvaged from a wreck so will have to go digging for that now.

On another note, still looking for a clutch arm return spring. The ones I have are either too long or too short. It needs to be around 6" +/- to possess sufficient tension when installed that the arm will return readily but not so short that the pedal becomes hard to push or the spring gets stretched and goes limp.

Nick

If I recall, mine came with the slightly longer 1 prong oil pressure switch. (mine was a dummy light car then)

A gauge car would have the big one prong oil pressure sender and one of the two prong oil pressure switches for the carburetor choke.

 

[fleming442]

Took it out on a 160 mile run for a site visit. Dang neared totaled it when an Aramark vending box truck decided to pull off the right shoulder from a dead stop to cut directly across 3 lanes and an exit median to hit a left hand exit he had missed. I was approaching at a high rate of speedm and the conversation in my head went something like this: Don't do it, you dumbass. Figures. What the... No you aren't. Yes, you are! You dumb MF'er!!!!!!!!!!!!!" as I swerved into the left shoulder/ exit median.

 

[Wageslave]

Took it out on a 160 mile run for a site visit. Dang neared totaled it when an Aramark vending box truck decided to pull off the right shoulder from a dead stop to cut directly across 3 lanes and an exit median to hit a left hand exit he had missed. I was approaching at a high rate of speedm and the conversation in my head went something like this: Don't do it, you dumbass. Figures. What the... No you aren't. Yes, you are! You dumb MF'er!!!!!!!!!!!!!" as I swerved into the left shoulder/ exit median.

Did it run any better after the long drive?

 

[fleming442]

Did it run any better after the long drive?

Definitely! Aired it out a few, 10, 15 times!