What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2020]

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Said f*** it, I wasn’t gonna miss out going for a cruise on a beautiful Sunday. Topped off the tank with some premium dino go-juice, and blew the cobwebs out of it for several hours.
Missing door handles, mirrors, filler and interior panels be dammed!

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PontiacGP, for you this is probably all road already travelled but just as a possibility for your consideration there was an excellent article called "Braking News", written by Ron Ceridono, that appeared in the November 2019 issue of Street Rodder. Among the items discussed was incorrect m/c cylinder bore, along with samples of the math involved to determine line pressure given a certain bore and x amount of pedal pressure. Now I cheerfully both acknowledge and agree that what the author is speaking about may pertain more to rods and customs than late models but as a reference read it is interesting. The issue is long off the shelf but you might still be able to find it on "streetrodder.com". or someone on the forum might have an extra issue kicking around. The mag itself is an ex-publication; it, like the parrot, has ceased to be, thanks to the indifference of the publisher to apparently everything (except huge profits generated for the benefit of its share and stockholders). It was one of a large group of specialty publications that got assimilated and then eradicated in the last year or two.
Anyway, thought of this article this am and figured it would do no harm to commend it to your attention.

Nick

I have F body calipers up front and 67 8.2" rear wheel cylinders. We used the 1 1/8 bore in our G body circle track with F body brakes and G body rear cylinder and the young skinny kid who drove the car never complained and he could lock up the front, which we gave him sh*t for that, so that that is why I went with the 1 1/8" bore. My GP didn't like that bore as I had to use to much leg force to stop the car. The 15/16" bore works great for my car so I'm happy with it. One of our members tried the 7/8" bore which did not work on his G body and he is using the 15/16" (24mm) bore now. There are sites talking about the formulas to use to figure out what size bore to use but I am not the first to use a manual brake cylinder on a G body. The 15/16" master cost me a whopping $15.95 and not much work involved to change the master so I am not going to sit down to calculate what I need. If this 15/16" bore didn't work then I'd be going to a 1" bore. I might even get the 1'" bore just to compare. Alot of things that work on paper don't work like planed in the real world.
 
Double checked the prep work that I did yesterday on the future AC dashboard. I have a 1981 service manual that I found in the El Camino that I got my dash and airbox from. It has some great schematics for the wiring that enabled me to figure out nearly every single one. Because the '81 instrument cluster was beat up and had aftermarket gauges, I had assumed that the car originally had warning lights, but the cluster electrical connector is (was) wired as a gauge cluster. The PO had cut 9 of the 16 wires to the cluster, and created a rat's nest of "custom" hook ups. I will see if my electrical supply outlet has reopened with regular hours so I can get/make new connectors, or whether I will have to order them online. I have one mounting point with a small crack to epoxy so that it doesn't break, and a list of other parts that I am going to need before the installation happens.
No "rat's nest" pics, but here are some after I cleaned up the PO's mess.
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Long week and tomorrow will be my work Friday. Couple of hours of more time with the car ( I finally decided to give her a name. "Sarah" after the Starship Song. 80's song for an 80's car). Sarah also means Princess, which by the time I am done and have replaced much she will be a Princess. Not a Queen kept in a garage but something that will be out more than 100 times a year.

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Finally it's leveled out! :banana: , I am going to let the layer cure over night then sand it smooth and remove other bits of Bondo surrounding the area showing through my temporary primer spray around it.

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Ughh now I can't even remember what this License plate cover thingy is called. I used JB Weld Epoxy to fix the cracks in it, put on primer and the first coat of black you see here. Not shown I did end up using the rest of the Truck bed liner can to paint the Spare Tire area of the Trunk. Trunk is DONE 😎.

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An over all update and view of that I have got going on. Still much to do. One Panel at a time.
 
After a short nap today. I ordered some pizza from Pizza Hut and got to work on sanding the Bondo smooth. There after what was left of primer I had on hand went on. Will still need a few more coats of primer.

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It was certainly a windy day, not much of spraying that I could do, I have to wait for my shipment of paint tomorrow. But while I was at sanding what I could I decided to do a spray trial on the Driver side Tail Light. Here's a mock up of the respray on the silver I have done. I think it's going to be awesome! certainly pops out allot better.

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Over all progress for the day. .
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After a short nap today. I ordered some pizza from Pizza Hut and got to work on sanding the Bondo smooth. There after what was left of primer I had on hand went on. Will still need a few more coats of primer.

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It was certainly a windy day, not much of spraying that I could do, I have to wait for my shipment of paint tomorrow. But while I was at sanding what I could I decided to do a spray trial on the Driver side Tail Light. Here's a mock up of the respray on the silver I have done. I think it's going to be awesome! certainly pops out allot better.

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Over all progress for the day. .
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Leave the doors and roof that light color and people will think that you are a police car LOL. Watch them scramble and drive right LOL.
 
My Corvette chime module arrived from eBay today, and it slotted right in. I now have my light dinger again and the 10 seconds of seat belt light.
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The only real difference between the two is the holes to let the sound out are on the top of the case on the Corvette one (left) and facing down on the Bonneville one (right). It probably makes it a little quieter, but not too noticeable to me.

If you ever need to locate this module, it is just to the left of the "cool yo nuts" vent, right next to the emergency brake release. Just pulls straight out, with no retaining tabs or anything.
 
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