What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2020]
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I thought I seen those floating around on Face Book in the G-Body Group site.
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From what I know this guy sells them. If you have Face Book shoot him a message to order one. Ask specifically for the G-Body Key chain. Says limited supply hopefully you can get one.
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Dang, I don't do book face. I'll see if he's on Instagram (which just so happens to be owned by the same D bag).I thought I seen those floating around on Face Book in the G-Body Group site.
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From what I know this guy sells them. If you have Face Book shoot him a message to order one. Ask specifically for the G-Body Key chain. Says limited supply hopefully you can get one.
After a bit of back and forth with the guy it turns out he does have instagram also wants me to share the Paypal account info to send him the money.
Instagram Account:
Marco Williamson
$87Marcowill
Paypal:
[email protected]
Nothing. Spent the weekend re-installing the steering wheel and mast assembly and figuring out what plugs went where after too many years of it being out and my memory being about as retentive as a stainless steel sieve. That done, pulled the car cover back down over it to keep the dust and debris from my non G-project from infiltrating the cabin, dug out my air driven engines of mass destruction, and went after the body damage on the passenger's side rocker panel and adjacent panels.
I switched out the master braked cylinder 1 1/8" bore to a 15/16" ( 24mm) bore MC. I had a heck of a time trying to the a.ir out of the system. I bench bleed the MC and tapped it and thought all the air was out. I bled the brakes and gravity bled the brakes and bled them again but the pedal is still spongy. The 15/16" bore feels great though if you give it a couple of pumps. I drove the GP tonight seeing if the air pockets will expose themselves when I bleed the system again tomorrow. If not I'll bench bleed the MC again.... 
Don't think the master cylinder is the issue here. Your air is likely to be found down range past the proportioning valve. Sometimes it can be that factory proportioning valve that is causing the problem. Don't know if you are running the stocker or an aftermarket unit and where you located it but, on the factory piece there is a relief valve that you have to release to get the valve itself to properly re-preload the brakes. By this I mean that the proportioning valve in a brake system acts to create bias or standing pressure in the back circuit so that the rear brakes initiate the braking process when the pedal is depressed. Since you swapped out the m/c that preload is gone and just bleeding the system isn't enough to recreate it, you have to visit the proportioning valve and reset it.
The other thing about bleeding is to do it from the wheels back to the m/c, not from the m/c into the system. Basically there is a sequence in which you start with the farthest bleeder valve, (passenger's rear wheel) attach a pressurized pump to it that is filled with brake oil, crack it open and start pumping the pump trigger to push the brake fluid into the line until it starts to appear in the m/c. Repeat for the driver's rear and then the passenger's front the driver's front last of all. You pretty much need someone to watch the reservoir to see if the oil is coming through. Once the reservoir has filled about half way you can top it off, try your pedal, visit the prop valve if necessary, and then do a traditional pedal pump and standard bleed if you feel you have to.
There is a external reservoir bleed kit available that can be attached to the m/c and pressurized using an air line; only takes a few lbs of air to get it to push fluid into the system and try for a bleed that way. Name of the tool is *****Blaster, think summit or jegs carry them.
Nick
The other thing about bleeding is to do it from the wheels back to the m/c, not from the m/c into the system. Basically there is a sequence in which you start with the farthest bleeder valve, (passenger's rear wheel) attach a pressurized pump to it that is filled with brake oil, crack it open and start pumping the pump trigger to push the brake fluid into the line until it starts to appear in the m/c. Repeat for the driver's rear and then the passenger's front the driver's front last of all. You pretty much need someone to watch the reservoir to see if the oil is coming through. Once the reservoir has filled about half way you can top it off, try your pedal, visit the prop valve if necessary, and then do a traditional pedal pump and standard bleed if you feel you have to.
There is a external reservoir bleed kit available that can be attached to the m/c and pressurized using an air line; only takes a few lbs of air to get it to push fluid into the system and try for a bleed that way. Name of the tool is *****Blaster, think summit or jegs carry them.
Nick
the master that came off had no air in the system. I have never used pressure to bleed a system and don't need to. I always start with the wheel furthest from the master and I don't need anyone to watch anything, if I did I would have to share my beer. I used this to bleed the brakes..thanks for the suggestions though...
We..ell, not being a consumer of beer any more due to personal health and life choices, having to share the stuff wouldn't factor in. One thing does puzzle me here though, Was the existing master cylinder not offering up sufficient line pressure to get a good quick stop for you?
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