Started working on the exhaust install. Initial fitment is pretty dang good, needs some tweaks but not much...
What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2020]
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After going on a 150 mile adventure with the wife, my growly alternator starting getting noticeably louder. Luckily, I was within a mile from home when it happened and I continued home without issue.
The next day, I pulled the alternator off and figured out that the diode pack on the CS130D alternators are mounted on the outside of the case. Apparently after removing the back plastic cover, you can remove 4 bolts and unsolder the 3 terminals off the diode pack and pull all of the electronics out of the alternator without cracking the case.
With this knowledge, I grabbed my growly alternator and my spare with the bad diode pack and switched them out. The whole process took about 10 minutes, and other than having to use a propane torch to get the solder to melt, was super easy.
I'll get the full rebuild kit for the fully crappy spare, since it was only $35, but at least I don't have to wait a week to drive it now.
The next day, I pulled the alternator off and figured out that the diode pack on the CS130D alternators are mounted on the outside of the case. Apparently after removing the back plastic cover, you can remove 4 bolts and unsolder the 3 terminals off the diode pack and pull all of the electronics out of the alternator without cracking the case.
With this knowledge, I grabbed my growly alternator and my spare with the bad diode pack and switched them out. The whole process took about 10 minutes, and other than having to use a propane torch to get the solder to melt, was super easy.
I'll get the full rebuild kit for the fully crappy spare, since it was only $35, but at least I don't have to wait a week to drive it now.
After much fiddling, I got all the cam bearings in. The rear one was just being an ******* for some reason. Front 4 went in flawlessly with the tool. Rear wasn't having it. After sacrificing a prius owner to the car gods I got it sorted out. Dropped the heads off last friday, ordered the pistons saturday. My dekstop dyno doohickey seems to think that this combo with untouched heads (which admittedly flow pretty terrible), 10ish:1 and a crower level 3 cam retarded 4* should "be" 327hp@4500 and 416ftlbs@3000. Sounds pretty typical of a mild SBB build. Estimate 230-250rwhp/290ftlbs to the wheels. Old engine with about 9.5:1 and the same cam, through cast iron intake and exhaust manifolds with cam installed "normally" made 211/263 with only 30* of timing, 10.8 wot afr and a moldy air filter on the chassis dyno. simulation says 272hp@4500 and 350ftlbs@3000 which is what the dyno guy expected. So this new engine should be something.
Got my UMI rear shock brace in this morning (after it left Philipsburg, pa to Duncansville, Pa, then to Zelienople, Pa, back to Duncansville again to be put on the Fed Up delivery truck). Just put it on. I'd suggest having 1" bolts for the install with just shocks.
At least it didn't go to Ohio or Kentucky like some of mine have coming from in state
nothing in the news about it....
It wasnt an accidentnothing in the news about it....
I lost a low beam on te OSRAMs this morning, so I had to one-eye-winky-Wally my way to work. Ordered a new set off Amazon, and noticed that they only seem to last a year or so. I have relays with direct battery feed and have upgraded the grounds, which got me to thinking. Look out!!! The Hella conversion housings came with an adapter to the H4 connectors. Now, I had already bought the ceramic sockets, but never installed them. Anybody that knows anything will tell you that less connections is mo' betta, so my quick, after work project was eliminating adapters. After wiring it wrong, putting it right, doing the other side, and installing a spare bulb, I now have ceramic sockets waiting for the new OSRAMs.
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man,can't you get in trouble for something like that?especially in a school zone...then again,it's cold out so maybe not so much be seen.
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