What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2021]
- Thread starter CopperNick
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Nice placement of the halo, you can insert the pics into your post so they automatically show as an FYI
Pulled the cover back on the 86 442 whipped dust off the 1992 inspection sticker while taking snow removal break. After 34 years of ownership Im thinking of selling to help pay college fees.
Since the snow is finally melting off, I started the Bonneville up and drove it out of the drift it was sitting in. It may go to the car wash before I take it home tonight.
Climbed into my painters coveralls and slid under the Monte for some more assembly work on the brakes. For once I actually had the parts that I needed and they had already been derusted and painted so that was fine. Laced the two e-brake cables into position under the frame and plugged the long one back into its frame bracket. Still couldn't get the barrel end to socket into the clip but, in an I wonder moment, checked the e-brake pedal and found that it was not fully retracted. Solved that by giving the release lever a tug while pulling up on the pedal and up it came. That gave me just enough to mate the two cables together and get the back one to socket into place.
Time for the second cable. Now that was the one with the threaded end on it and a normal person would go to bed thinking that the thread was white man's OEM. Turns out that the factory went metric. And me with no 10 mm fine pitch nuts in stock. (Why would I, most everything I own is old enough that the bolts and nuts are SAE or USS fractional.) I had binned a bunch of surplus hardware that had been sitting in cans and pails so went on the hunt. Actually managed to find one in the matched pairs bin. One only 10 mm fine thread nut, shouldered no less, with a 13mm hex head. Grabbed the locktite blue slithered back under the car, laid some blue on the threads, and ran that puppy home. So that is finally done.
In a WYAIT moment, you know, While you are in there, I grabbed the 5/16ths anti-vibration washers that I had standing by, pulled the rear muffler flange bolts, one at a time, and slipped them into position and sank the nuts as tight as possible. On the way out, I happened to brush past the nuts on the one hanger clamp and found them loose! Probably left over from aligning the exhaust system on that side. Threw a few turns into each of them, barely avoided a ratchet sandwich when the socket popped free of the far nut, refrained from throwing the whole business across the shop and carried on. With the cables finished I can now revisit the shoes and set the drag on them. Didn't want to do that with the cables loose as i wasn't sure what the consequences of doing the drag first would be.
Next item on the agenda is to re-anchor the rear brake hose at the crossmember. Finally found a heavy "P" bracket that will work and the plan is to stuff that in tomorrow. Still have to visit the rear bleeder screws and delouse them of the crap and corruption that they have accumulated. Thinking about filling and pressurizing the system but also thinking about converting the diff hard lines from normal steel tube to stainless. Think I have all the fittings for that and they are the weak link in the system now as all the rest as far back as the master cylinder have already been done. Still have revisit the gland nuts and apply a wrench to them to make sure they are tight. Not too much wrench, this is S/S here but it is also A-N fittings so the flares have to be seated to guarantee continuity. Not as hard as if stock, the proportioning valve got move up to a bracket below the m/cylinder so getting to them is muy mas easier.
Nick
Time for the second cable. Now that was the one with the threaded end on it and a normal person would go to bed thinking that the thread was white man's OEM. Turns out that the factory went metric. And me with no 10 mm fine pitch nuts in stock. (Why would I, most everything I own is old enough that the bolts and nuts are SAE or USS fractional.) I had binned a bunch of surplus hardware that had been sitting in cans and pails so went on the hunt. Actually managed to find one in the matched pairs bin. One only 10 mm fine thread nut, shouldered no less, with a 13mm hex head. Grabbed the locktite blue slithered back under the car, laid some blue on the threads, and ran that puppy home. So that is finally done.
In a WYAIT moment, you know, While you are in there, I grabbed the 5/16ths anti-vibration washers that I had standing by, pulled the rear muffler flange bolts, one at a time, and slipped them into position and sank the nuts as tight as possible. On the way out, I happened to brush past the nuts on the one hanger clamp and found them loose! Probably left over from aligning the exhaust system on that side. Threw a few turns into each of them, barely avoided a ratchet sandwich when the socket popped free of the far nut, refrained from throwing the whole business across the shop and carried on. With the cables finished I can now revisit the shoes and set the drag on them. Didn't want to do that with the cables loose as i wasn't sure what the consequences of doing the drag first would be.
Next item on the agenda is to re-anchor the rear brake hose at the crossmember. Finally found a heavy "P" bracket that will work and the plan is to stuff that in tomorrow. Still have to visit the rear bleeder screws and delouse them of the crap and corruption that they have accumulated. Thinking about filling and pressurizing the system but also thinking about converting the diff hard lines from normal steel tube to stainless. Think I have all the fittings for that and they are the weak link in the system now as all the rest as far back as the master cylinder have already been done. Still have revisit the gland nuts and apply a wrench to them to make sure they are tight. Not too much wrench, this is S/S here but it is also A-N fittings so the flares have to be seated to guarantee continuity. Not as hard as if stock, the proportioning valve got move up to a bracket below the m/cylinder so getting to them is muy mas easier.
Nick
Nothing. Received an alert last night for work today. By the time I finish a shift behind the wheel I am done. Eat food, let Boob Tube put me to sleep and then go to bed.
Battling front springs, but I’m gonna win -I can feel it!!
Just curious, what's the point of a motown block anyway? Are good quality sbc bottom ends cheaper/better than LS stuff? LS heads significantly better then SBC stuff?
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