Way to rub it in, I really need to get some time on the Monte so that I can take it up to the Gbody Classic
What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2021]
- Thread starter CopperNick
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My El Camino failed inspection for emissions last Wednesday. I bought oil, an oil filter, an air filter, fuel filter, a fuel additive, drained the year old gas and got spark plugs.
After tuning her up for a little bit tonight, I think I may have found the culprit. Exhibit A:
Plug on the left is regular wear, plug on the right is oily as hell. Replaced them all - I think she’ll pass inspection this week!
After tuning her up for a little bit tonight, I think I may have found the culprit. Exhibit A:
Plug on the left is regular wear, plug on the right is oily as hell. Replaced them all - I think she’ll pass inspection this week!
More efforts on the driver side 'shelf' in front of the new taller tub.
I cut up an extra battery tray to mirror the stock pass side battery tray placement. I assumed since diesels were available, the tray could utilize the mirror image mounting @ the inner fender skin & core support on the driver side (that's how C10's were set-up). The inner skin lines up but the bracketry @ the core support was @ a different height which required changes to the bottom of the tray. Initially I just cut out what was needed so I could @ least bolt it in to the fender skin. Once I had repeatable results w/the wheel tub install placement, I tweaked the driver side tray to bolt in @ all OE spots. I wound up removing the entire 90° lip where the hold-down bracketry went & replaced it w/a straight section. Then the bottom pan area was cut away for flat plate (16ga). Welded it up over the weekend. Test the fit last night & buzzed the welds down.
Still need my door hinge rebuild hardware to ensure the fender is where it is supposed to be. Once that's in stone, I'll start building the close-out portion ( vertical area between the inner/outer fender skins). Still contemplating the close-out for the frame/engine compartment side but have 1 or 2 ideas.
I cut up an extra battery tray to mirror the stock pass side battery tray placement. I assumed since diesels were available, the tray could utilize the mirror image mounting @ the inner fender skin & core support on the driver side (that's how C10's were set-up). The inner skin lines up but the bracketry @ the core support was @ a different height which required changes to the bottom of the tray. Initially I just cut out what was needed so I could @ least bolt it in to the fender skin. Once I had repeatable results w/the wheel tub install placement, I tweaked the driver side tray to bolt in @ all OE spots. I wound up removing the entire 90° lip where the hold-down bracketry went & replaced it w/a straight section. Then the bottom pan area was cut away for flat plate (16ga). Welded it up over the weekend. Test the fit last night & buzzed the welds down.
Still need my door hinge rebuild hardware to ensure the fender is where it is supposed to be. Once that's in stone, I'll start building the close-out portion ( vertical area between the inner/outer fender skins). Still contemplating the close-out for the frame/engine compartment side but have 1 or 2 ideas.
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Some progress 😎
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Took the El Camino through for re-inspection at DMV - failed again! The attendant didn't even have to stick the meter in my tailpipe; enough smoke was coming out when I revved it to know that she wouldn't pass.
I drove it to work in the morning about 40mi from my house because I was going to take it through inspection on the way home since DMV is right between my house and work. The car has sat for about a year, but in the last month I've been getting her back in working order and driving her to work a couple days a week to breathe some life into her.
The car ran fine on the way to work, I even drove it to go get lunch at noon. At the end of the work day when I hop in to go home, the transmission is having a lot of trouble shifting (200R4). This has happened every now and again in the past - usually I can just floor it and it'll unstick and shift correctly again. Well, not yesterday haha
Could barely get it out of first, and would not go any higher than 2nd. I rode down the highway at no faster than 45mph, and she was screaming the whole way. The engine was running hot because of this too (not overheating, but hotter than usual)
That was probably a mistake on my part, because now she blows out a puff of smoke whenever I rev it a little. The smoke is white so I'm assuming the head gasket might be toast.
Does the transmission sound like a stuck TV? Or something worse?
Frustrating!
I drove it to work in the morning about 40mi from my house because I was going to take it through inspection on the way home since DMV is right between my house and work. The car has sat for about a year, but in the last month I've been getting her back in working order and driving her to work a couple days a week to breathe some life into her.
The car ran fine on the way to work, I even drove it to go get lunch at noon. At the end of the work day when I hop in to go home, the transmission is having a lot of trouble shifting (200R4). This has happened every now and again in the past - usually I can just floor it and it'll unstick and shift correctly again. Well, not yesterday haha
Could barely get it out of first, and would not go any higher than 2nd. I rode down the highway at no faster than 45mph, and she was screaming the whole way. The engine was running hot because of this too (not overheating, but hotter than usual)
That was probably a mistake on my part, because now she blows out a puff of smoke whenever I rev it a little. The smoke is white so I'm assuming the head gasket might be toast.
Does the transmission sound like a stuck TV? Or something worse?
Frustrating!
Sounds like a TV issue, could be a frayed cable or the TV spool is sticking in bore or TV spool return spring broken or TV plunger sticking.
Check the Cable as stated above if it is functional that doesn't rule out the spool and or return spring since the Cable/ plunger has its own return spring and are not directly connected to the TV spool valve
Drop the transmission pan and have someone work the throttle or TV cable itself while you watch the valve. If that is all good, I would then get a pressure gauge connected after the pan is back on and fluid is filled.
You could check the pressure first before dropping the pan. If the pressure is good but still not upshifting, then check the valve operation with the pan removed.
We're assuming you checked fluid level and it is at or above full.
It's better to make sure the level, pressure, and TV operation are correct than burn up the trans.
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