What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2022]

Status
Not open for further replies.
Got my buddy to stop over last night and give it the once over. He decided we should change the plugs, cap, and rotor to see where that gets us. Once we got through that the top port on the Sniper sounded like it was sucking a hell of a vaccum. Also noticed there was a nice break in the boot of the wire. Then the distributor wasn't getting any vaccum to it, played around for a while and seems to be the IAC going wacky. Was supposed to be 8-12 they claimed, it was originally at 0 then would go up into the 50s a few times, one time even went full 100 before it stalled the car out. On the Sniper display it was showing it going lean but the car was running very rich, so got to do some more homework and see what all is going on
20220608_195405.jpg
IMG_20220608_212131_01.jpg
 
It ain't perfect yet... but one step closer to being able to keep floor carpet dry.

Rustproofed the majority of seam welds and lap/butt joints that i had zapped up today and prior.

Took the A pillar braces out as well... it is buttoned up enough to sit and wait for more metal work at another time.

Sure there will be some grinding, and it is best done on a grinding day.
 

Attachments

  • 16550685246778925222743653293291.jpg
    16550685246778925222743653293291.jpg
    877.3 KB · Views: 81
  • 16550684238915804905590297713729.jpg
    16550684238915804905590297713729.jpg
    1,006.3 KB · Views: 86
  • 1655068842757906864387758133244.jpg
    1655068842757906864387758133244.jpg
    632.1 KB · Views: 90
I played wit this stuff as well today, just getting acquainted wit what's yet to come for this little cruiser... getting some highflow cats in the mail soon... which will be handy fo floor and tunnel work, having to do wit a third pedal...and a trailer hitch i picked up from a fellow member from Ottawa last year.
 

Attachments

  • 20220612_135619.jpg
    20220612_135619.jpg
    995.4 KB · Views: 78
  • 20220612_135446.jpg
    20220612_135446.jpg
    874.1 KB · Views: 79
  • 20220612_135525.jpg
    20220612_135525.jpg
    864.1 KB · Views: 100
Finally rotated my G-10 out of Bay One and onto the street in front of my house. it is now my daily driver again.

That left Bay One empty so back to work on the Monte again. The inner door skin is hanging in the paint/prep booth and I took the opportunity to move the cradle out into Bay One and shoot a couple of coats of grey anti-rust primer on the inner surface of the door skin. By way of amplification, the default EDP black coating is not waterproof. Most shops will sand it off to get bare metal to start with. All i did was give it a good scuffing with a sanding disc and then took the shots. This will likely be my only opportunity to have access to this side of the skin as once it is mated to the inner half, they are pretty much a pair for life. I had already sanded a bare area around the perimeter of the skin, about 5/8 inch width. This matches the flange on the inner shell and is where the adhesive will be applied to get the best bond possible.

I also spent a little time in the shop this evening, barked up the compressor, and punched some small holes into the fold over flange on the outer skin. The adhesive will do the structural part of the assembly but i want to tack the fold to the inner skin once it is dollied over and flat. This is not going to be a continuous seam, although that notion is appealing; just a few rose welds about the same way the factory did it.

For round two, I finally was able to slide back under the rear end of the car and start stripping the back frame rails and the kick up over the rear end of all the crap and crud that they have accumulated over the years, including old coats of undercoating. The rails are in decent shape so the next step will be a good soaking with Rust Mort and some time to let that dry and cure. After that the process will be about the same as what I did for the S-10 last summer.

Even in full bunny suit with breather and muffs and full face shield, I still managed to get pelted with debris. Blew up two wire cup wheels, one right down to nothing. Later found one of the cup wires floating around in my beard!!!

Did drop both the old shocks and the rear exhaust pipe hangers out to get better room for the stripping work. The agenda calls for new shocks anyway and I have that UMI cross brace to set in place at that point as well. I had wanted to tack that in permanently once I had it correctly located but it doesn't look like that can done unless the body is off the frame; Now wouldn't that have been nice.

So this week is basically an exercise in cleaning the floor by crawling all over it. Good thing bunny suits are cheap as they die easy and turn from white to black very quickly.

The end game is to get the rear end hung again so I can bring in the S-10 and do a potentially complete replacement of the front brake circuit, including all new lines. BOTHER.



Nick
 
  • Like
Reactions: 83MonteCarloSS
Finally rotated my G-10 out of Bay One and onto the street in front of my house. it is now my daily driver again.

That left Bay One empty so back to work on the Monte again. The inner door skin is hanging in the paint/prep booth and I took the opportunity to move the cradle out into Bay One and shoot a couple of coats of grey anti-rust primer on the inner surface of the door skin. By way of amplification, the default EDP black coating is not waterproof. Most shops will sand it off to get bare metal to start with. All i did was give it a good scuffing with a sanding disc and then took the shots. This will likely be my only opportunity to have access to this side of the skin as once it is mated to the inner half, they are pretty much a pair for life. I had already sanded a bare area around the perimeter of the skin, about 5/8 inch width. This matches the flange on the inner shell and is where the adhesive will be applied to get the best bond possible.

I also spent a little time in the shop this evening, barked up the compressor, and punched some small holes into the fold over flange on the outer skin. The adhesive will do the structural part of the assembly but i want to tack the fold to the inner skin once it is dollied over and flat. This is not going to be a continuous seam, although that notion is appealing; just a few rose welds about the same way the factory did it.

For round two, I finally was able to slide back under the rear end of the car and start stripping the back frame rails and the kick up over the rear end of all the crap and crud that they have accumulated over the years, including old coats of undercoating. The rails are in decent shape so the next step will be a good soaking with Rust Mort and some time to let that dry and cure. After that the process will be about the same as what I did for the S-10 last summer.

Even in full bunny suit with breather and muffs and full face shield, I still managed to get pelted with debris. Blew up two wire cup wheels, one right down to nothing. Later found one of the cup wires floating around in my beard!!!

Did drop both the old shocks and the rear exhaust pipe hangers out to get better room for the stripping work. The agenda calls for new shocks anyway and I have that UMI cross brace to set in place at that point as well. I had wanted to tack that in permanently once I had it correctly located but it doesn't look like that can done unless the body is off the frame; Now wouldn't that have been nice.

So this week is basically an exercise in cleaning the floor by crawling all over it. Good thing bunny suits are cheap as they die easy and turn from white to black very quickly.

The end game is to get the rear end hung again so I can bring in the S-10 and do a potentially complete replacement of the front brake circuit, including all new lines. BOTHER.



Nick
just out of curiosity, where do you get your bunny suits from? any particular brand?
 
sat in it during a torrential downpour checking for leaks on the rear windshield. so far so good.
 
Got my buddy to stop over last night and give it the once over. He decided we should change the plugs, cap, and rotor to see where that gets us. Once we got through that the top port on the Sniper sounded like it was sucking a hell of a vaccum. Also noticed there was a nice break in the boot of the wire. Then the distributor wasn't getting any vaccum to it, played around for a while and seems to be the IAC going wacky. Was supposed to be 8-12 they claimed, it was originally at 0 then would go up into the 50s a few times, one time even went full 100 before it stalled the car out. On the Sniper display it was showing it going lean but the car was running very rich, so got to do some more homework and see what all is going on
View attachment 200275View attachment 200276
You know I'm not paying extra for all that work. Still just the $50, pizza, and beer.😆

Seriously though, it's good to hear there is a lot more going on there, it makes more sense how the car would be running for a while then just crap out on you.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: mclellan83
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor