What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2023]

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Dipstick tube was leaking, again, then stopped, now the pan is back to leaking.

😡
my new pan showed up, so last ditch effort is that ****in thing with the moroso gasket. if that doesnt seal it for good, nothing short of welding an aluminum pan to it will.
 
Got the word today the block is good, he already bored it. Says it is tight so wants to go through and hone it, then throw in the freeze plugs and cam bearings
 
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Quarter panel back half this was a couple days work. While it may look primitive, therewas/ is some finess"...going on ...this is tennessee and salt days are far between.Il admit I'm crossing some frontier here with epoxy over sandblasted pits followed by fiberglass liquid and cloth the bottom is still rough and I have seen it left that way befor as the big trim panel hides it well one thing I'm supporting is the necessity of such areas to drain leaving some ample air /water holes gaps ect is fine for real use cars, not garage baby's ect.The epoxy primer seems to be the kind to resist sanding but hardens very well ,and also I had intended to spray the top of the body most of the way down (when ready) but now I may have to spray say the trunk top and see how the sanding goes (as to) sandpaper wet or dry hand or da .The last time I sanded epoxy it was different very dry and somewhat powdery to sand this stuff is like the Mason polyester sealer but much harder i can't use xylene or whatever to thin or clean it I've got to get some laquer cleaner to see if that cleans it also someplace got epoxy thinner I just don't have any yet.... above the trim here I'm satisfied with upol filler and after handblocking after useing a 7" circle sander to cut the top of the off I had a long board pretty flat not to wide about 2 foot long oh alright there was some da sanding ...I've gotten a lot better at and boarding and a 7" sander polisher is proubly not recomended for sanding that upol gold bondo I'm telling you now! the upol gold is a hard"... filler
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not rubbery like bondo brand (junk) hard to sand when fully hard (13minits) .Using filler over a large panel and sanding or managing additional material can present variations in work required all relating to the window (minets) just befor it reaches a full hardness for power sanding ,I don't like to use glaze but that the top epoxy ect ,it's going to look fine.thanks have a good day...
 
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Dug into more wiring work & replaced the tach wire terminal in the dash cluster since it wasn't done right when new, rediscovered I changed the choke wire from the OE Pack-Con to a GM56 for the 4175's choke so I'm going to see if I can make an adapter/jumper harness before changing the terminal end. Did a once over on all the harnesses to see what is good to go & what still need work.
 
Might be time to update to Deutsch plug style connectors. I have used them myself and like that they are a lot smaller than the old weathepack shells. They are last generation and the whole business changed again when multiple computers and EDU's made things complicated but they are easy to assemble, no soldering required and basically go together something like a lego set.



Nick
 
Might be time to update to Deutsch plug style connectors. I have used them myself and like that they are a lot smaller than the old weathepack shells. They are last generation and the whole business changed again when multiple computers and EDU's made things complicated but they are easy to assemble, no soldering required and basically go together something like a lego set.



Nick
I'm trying to keep it look as factory as I can. I beleive my salvage supply should have what I'll need. I worse case it'll be a less than 5 minute job replacing the terminal & connector.
 
G body related but not directly to mine. While putting things away from the harness stuff I saw my spare dash harness wasn't as great condition as I thought since I noticed there were wire ends cut off like the radio, heater control, heater, ashtray & glovebox lights. I fixed the radio wires since I had a pigtail handy. I'll have to dig through the salvage stuff to fix the rest. OCD kinda winns again.
 
Went back to the spare dash harness & got everything fixed. Spliced the glove box, heater control, ashtray & both courtesy lights. Replaced the entire heater power wire but still needs to be somehow fished back into the wrapped harness & fixed the one wire for the back up light plug. Now I have a ready to go spare. OCD wins.
 
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