What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2023]

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Have to thank this forum once again. My turn signals haven't work properly in forever. I searched around and found some good threads about the "flasher". Climbed under the dash and even though it's an awkward spot, I replaced it and boom. I've never gotten so much joy from such a "small" win. Now I don't have to manually signal.
 
Checked some clearances yesterday
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Booted up the compressor and gave it a good dust off to remove some of the fallout from other work being done. Amazon came through!! and I now have a decent supply of Lenox Air Saw blades plus some Ingersoll Rand ones as well; almost pure unobtanium around here. They give me the means to do some fine cuts around the rear wheel house for that rocker panel project.




Nick
 
I tried adjusting the Driver Side door as the front part of the Body Line was off just a slight bit. I was able to lift the door up as far up as it will go, but it's still a little off (Almost lined up) I am starting to think that the fender (Toward the Door) end is sitting just slightly higher than it needs to be. . .
 
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Took the Malibu up to the gas station and then was gonna beat up the streets a little when I smelled gas from the engine compartment. Popped the hood to see a pinhole leak from the steel braided fuel line between the fuel pump and carb. Let's see if that's covered under warranty from Blueprint. Either way, it's obvious a new one is in order.
 
Im fed up. I'm done. I've tried everything short of an expensive *ss aluminum pan to stop this MF from leaking everywhere. No matter what I do, gasket, no gasket just rtv, gasket with rtv, special atf resistant rtv, gaskacinch, cork, rubber felt, chrome pan, stock pan, steel aftermarket pan, sealing the dipstick tube, sealing the kickdown cable, torque anywhere from 50 to 120 inch pounds, nothing will stop the leak from the front right corner. my friend seems to think it's the front seal going bad but it only leaks when it sits (drips immediately start after shutdown), and it exclusively leaks from the area pictured. I can spray it with brake cleaner and watch as the red just oozes out of the top, bottom and seemingly the gasket itself. I'm at a loss. I'm tempted to just let the sumbitch burn up if it wants to be empty so bad. Yes, there is a valve cover leak dribbling on the bell housing.
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Links from Bing are a monumental PITA.

The product is called Penray, It is a transmission sealer that you apparently add to the fluid.





Bars leak also offers two different products that are advertised by them as being remedies for transmission leaks.

Mr. Sony, question to you about all this is, can the pan rail on a transmission warp? I know head gasket surfaces can deform from too much heat or poor torque wrench work; had that happen to a friend's inline Dodge motor, supposedly built by a reputable company but ending up with me under the hood of the truck yanking the head cause it had warped. Not the same thing at all as a t-box pan rail. but where dissimilar metals come in contact, the iron and the sheet metal, with the gasket in between, there is room for issues to occur. The other thing here is that the picture is sort of upside down but I do believe that I am looking at a TH350 case and pan, that right?

The one thing that kicks my memory about the 350 is that the front pan rail is the thinnest one of the four, and very narrow right in the middle, with only the four bolts to hold the pan down and a lot of nothing in between each of them. You might very well have put your finger on the cure; that rigid aluminum pan. Any chance of scoring one at the next swap meet or on line.?

The other thing is that the Felpro PTFE blue gaskets will squirm or try to move, particularly in spots where there are only a few bolts to keep them on the path of the straight and narrow. My own experience with them is that it was miserable trying to keep the gasket centered on that front case flange, particularly right under the front pump cover, because there is so little surface there to work with. That, to me, says that the ATF is showing up in the location you highlighted but could be coming somewhere else along that gasket face and taking advantage of the gasket to weep out at the point you found.

BE aware that I am speculating here but I would not feel happy about you losing the transmission to a low fluid burnout; that is $$$ and way too much frustration; I'd be throwing things at that point and I normally do not throw stuff because then I have to go and find it.


Nick
 
The product is called Penray, It is a transmission sealer that you apparently add to the fluid.

Bars leak also offers two different products that are advertised by them as being remedies for transmission leaks.

Mr. Sony, question to you about all this is, can the pan rail on a transmission warp? I know head gasket surfaces can deform from too much heat or poor torque wrench work; had that happen to a friend's inline Dodge motor, supposedly built by a reputable company but ending up with me under the hood of the truck yanking the head cause it had warped. Not the same thing at all as a t-box pan rail. but where dissimilar metals come in contact, the iron and the sheet metal, with the gasket in between, there is room for issues to occur. The other thing here is that the picture is sort of upside down but I do believe that I am looking at a TH350 case and pan, that right?

The one thing that kicks my memory about the 350 is that the front pan rail is the thinnest one of the four, and very narrow right in the middle, with only the four bolts to hold the pan down and a lot of nothing in between each of them. You might very well have put your finger on the cure; that rigid aluminum pan. Any chance of scoring one at the next swap meet or on line.?

The other thing is that the Felpro PTFE blue gaskets will squirm or try to move, particularly in spots where there are only a few bolts to keep them on the path of the straight and narrow. My own experience with them is that it was miserable trying to keep the gasket centered on that front case flange, particularly right under the front pump cover, because there is so little surface there to work with. That, to me, says that the ATF is showing up in the location you highlighted but could be coming somewhere else along that gasket face and taking advantage of the gasket to weep out at the point you found.

BE aware that I am speculating here but I would not feel happy about you losing the transmission to a low fluid burnout; that is $$$ and way too much frustration; I'd be throwing things at that point and I normally do not throw stuff because then I have to go and find it.


Nick
hmmmm, what about using a short piece of metal bar at that spot to clamp like they did on the SBC perimeter-clamp valve covers?

shopping
 
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