What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2023]

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So, I re did the pan.
New steel pan, with cork gasket.
I tamped the holes down (i dont give a frogs fat *ss what the service manual and Internet says, anymore than snug with a nut driver is too tight), put a thin smear of rtv on the case where it was dripping from on the front passenger corner (there was a mark there like someone dug into the case with a scraper or something) after sanding the offending mark down as much as I could.

I actually put the car on jacks this time and ran it, I stayed under there for about 10 minutes trying to see where it (and my engine) were leaking. Nada. Shut it off, cleaned up my mess, crawled back under, and low and behold, for the first time, I see fluid on the converter. Now, as much as I didn't want it to be, I know the front seal is bad. And I'll replace the front pump seals as well because duh.

What am I gonna do about it? Probably some stop leak snake oil until it gets exponentially worse or I have time to fix it.

Picture is the pan after torquing to 10ftlbs.
Doubled checked with two torque wrenches. Yes I used an inch pound 1/4 torque wrench.
IMG_20230809_193933145.jpg
 
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So, I re did the pan.
New steel pan, with cork gasket.
I tamped the holes down (i dont give a frogs fat *ss what the service manual and Internet says, anymore than snug with a nut driver is too tight), put a thin smear of rtv on the case where it was dripping from on the front passenger corner (there was a mark there like someone dug into the case with a scraper or something) after sanding the offending mark down as much as I could.

I actually put the car on jacks this time and ran it, I stayed under there for about 10 minutes trying to see where it (and my engine) were leaking. Nada. Shut it off, cleaned up my mess, crawled back under, and low and behold, for the first time, I see fluid on the converter. Now, as much as I didn't want it to be, I know the front seal is bad. And I'll replace the front pump seals as well because duh.

What am I gonna do about it? Probably some stop leak snake oil until it gets exponentially worse or I have time to fix it.

Picture is the pan after torquing to 10ftlbs.
Doubled checked with two torque wrenches. Yes I used an inch pound 1/4 torque wrench.
View attachment 226016
Stop leak makes more problems than it helps.

If it's leaking slow just keep it topped off and add fluids. Much better than the stop leak fallout.
 
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Stop leak makes more problems than it helps.

If it's leaking slow just keep it topped off and add fluids. Much better than the stop leak fallout.
definitely a risk vs reward deal, heavy on the risk.
 
Other than stare at it till I get the new shop done? Well, I lucked out a scored some parts I've been waiting 2 years to get. I'll update here and my thread when I recieve them!
 
Put a new heater core in my 86 MCSS. Pain in the butt. I had an 80 Malibu that i replaced the heater core in 25 years ago. It was easy. Oh thats right. I forgot i was 25 years younger and 50lbs lighter. HA HA
 
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So here I am back in the same spot again! 😡 No Power under load, Choke is stuck wide open. It started happening again just yesterday. I've been going through all the video's concerning the problem, The Choke Plate I noticed is not moving as it should when you give it some throttle, it's stuck fully open. I checked the new Spark Plugs I put in, they're black on top but fine. Oil will be alright for now but I will have to change it once I get this problem solved. Today I've been racking the brain gears just to figure out what's going on, I suspect the Choke as the cause. I'm going to take that apart tomorrow as it'll be cooler into noon. . .
 
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View attachment 225678Quarter panel back half this was a couple days work. While it may look primitive, therewas/ is some finess"...going on ...this is tennessee and salt days are far between.Il admit I'm crossing some frontier here with epoxy over sandblasted pits followed by fiberglass liquid and cloth the bottom is still rough and I have seen it left that way befor as the big trim panel hides it well one thing I'm supporting is the necessity of such areas to drain leaving some ample air /water holes gaps ect is fine for real use cars, not garage baby's ect.The epoxy primer seems to be the kind to resist sanding but hardens very well ,and also I had intended to spray the top of the body most of the way down (when ready) but now I may have to spray say the trunk top and see how the sanding goes (as to) sandpaper wet or dry hand or da .The last time I sanded epoxy it was different very dry and somewhat powdery to sand this stuff is like the Mason polyester sealer but much harder i can't use xylene or whatever to thin or clean it I've got to get some laquer cleaner to see if that cleans it also someplace got epoxy thinner I just don't have any yet.... above the trim here I'm satisfied with upol filler and after handblocking after useing a 7" circle sander to cut the top of the off I had a long board pretty flat not to wide about 2 foot long oh alright there was some da sanding ...I've gotten a lot better at and boarding and a 7" sander polisher is proubly not recomended for sanding that upol gold bondo I'm telling you now! the upol gold is a hard"... fillerView attachment 225678 not rubbery like bondo brand (junk) hard to sand when fully hard (13minits) .Using filler over a large panel and sanding or managing additional material can present variations in work required all relating to the window (minets) just befor it reaches a full hardness for power sanding ,I don't like to use glaze but that the top epoxy ect ,it's going to look fine.thanks have a good day...
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Here's a couple more days on the front of quarter there were more dings and dangs. Had the usual dent near the reverse compound (Haunch) contour took more time then I expected.Not see is changing headlight 2 of the trim screws had froze to the plastic nuts I did drill the heads off the screws after fiddling with other ideas "..the screws did get hot from drilling mentioning this for info,the plastic rim holes melted a little and I might need a larger screw . After thoughts are that I might of gotten a hold on the screw and knocked it and the little plastic nut out from the back but it was taking hours .ordered new screws of ebay 10 bucks... screws came still working that quarter anouther half day findes me adding filler and hand sanding whole side and the perifrial edges of repair section .
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Six or seven days now loosing tract
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Startedupperdoorthesepicsarenotinorde
 

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Took off Choke, messed around with levers and such looking over the other side I am thinking this is the trouble area. Choke Plate is suppose to be moving in/out snapping back in place as you give it some throttle and closing when engine is cool (As Pictured), this is not happening. Not sure how to go about fixing this.
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I dropped my 6.5" Glasstek hood for the Monte off at the painters, looking forward to seeing it in black.
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