Tool? I use allthread. Weird thing is the hub seems to seat way far out so the last long block I put together I stripped a few chunks until I realized it was already seated and I was wasting my time. The LT motors really aren't the devils the internet makes them out to be. Since I got mine right in 2015 it's been bulletproof and I stand on it 20-30 minutes at a time with it running hot as fvck. Last year I vented the driver's valve cover and picked back up around 15-20whp. I vented it after I overheated the absolute fvck out of it. Buried the Autometer temp gauge, a first. It was pissed, but it came around. If it didn't, I had a spare longblock just waiting.
What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2020]
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Tool? I use allthread. Weird thing is the hub seems to seat way far out so the last long block I put together I stripped a few chunks until I realized it was already seated and I was wasting my time. The LT motors really aren't the devils the internet makes them out to be. Since I got mine right in 2015 it's been bulletproof and I stand on it 20-30 minutes at a time with it running hot as fvck. Last year I vented the driver's valve cover and picked back up around 15-20whp. I vented it after I overheated the absolute fvck out of it. Buried the Autometer temp gauge, a first. It was pissed, but it came around. If it didn't, I had a spare longblock just waiting.
Went through the service history. Looks like all of the recalls have been completed.
That’s why tool was in quotes. I used a bit of allthread, a nut and a couple washers, and it looked just like the $20 install tools available for purchase. I like the LT1, even more now that I know more about it (where else in the 90s could you make 300 hp and still knock off 25+ mpg), but it does require more than 3 basic hand tools from your grandmas junk drawer to work on. I think that might be what drives the reputation.
They are nice little cars. My uncle had the Pontiac badged variant only it was an automatic. He doesn't take care of anything but I don't think he ever had an issue with it. It was comfortable, reliable transportation.
Picked up this Snap-On FLF936 and an S80A for $40 today.
They are well used but they both work. The S80A is dated 2011 and feels pretty good. The FLF936 is a 2002 and it works fine but felt kinda gritty. So I popped it apart and cleaned it out inside. Lots of dirt but no broken teeth, so I just cleaned it out. I need to get some Super Lube tomorrow and I'll put it back together.
They are well used but they both work. The S80A is dated 2011 and feels pretty good. The FLF936 is a 2002 and it works fine but felt kinda gritty. So I popped it apart and cleaned it out inside. Lots of dirt but no broken teeth, so I just cleaned it out. I need to get some Super Lube tomorrow and I'll put it back together.
Tiny bit of wheel bearing grease works good to
You can use just about anything in these coarse tooth ratchets, wheel bearing grease, engine assembly lube, probably KY jelly would do fine. The finer tooth ratchets like the Dual 80s seem to be a little pickier. Snap On uses Super Lube in them from the factory and in all their repair kits, so it's what I put in everything. One tube is probably enough for 100 ratchets.
I put the FLF936 back together and decided to do the other two since I was at it. The FLF936 still feels a little rough to me, but I'm gonna use it for a while and see if it smooths out. If not I'll get new guts for it. The FL80A is butter smooth, and it was spotless inside, it was probably thrown around in a toolbox but I doubt it was used very much. And the SV71 feels pretty good for a 56 year old 20 tooth ratchet.
And while I was on a roll I decided to go through these three Craftsmans. They were pretty dirty inside, I use these pretty regularly.
I used super lube on my poly sway bushings. Supposed to be good grade and plays nice with a lot of stuff.
Today was borderline productive. I got the no walk tail bush pressed in. It seems like a well made piece. It distorted ever so slightly, but nothing like the TH350 bush.
The yolk had to be perfectly aligned to drop in, but when it was in it spun freely. I whacked the yoke from all 4 sides with a mallet and it freed it up a bit more. I used Loctite 620 instead of the recommended 609 as it's rated to 450 degrees vs 300. My trans gets up around 300 in a hot summer race I'm sure, so a little breathing room was in order.
Next I got the axle in. I felt that the preload on the diff bearings was a little tight. By feel, it's noticeable but tapping in the shims didn't feel excessive. I'm going to remove the diff tomorrow and put it back on the press to verify that the bearings are fully seated. Probably have to check wear pattern again too.
Next I came home, cleaned the mating surfaces, and got the tail housing back on. Then I JB Welded the breather back into the case. It wasn't a press fit anymore so with a clean, oil free case now was the time to glue it in.
Hopefully I didn't **** anything up in this and it works like a dream. Not holding my breath.
The yolk had to be perfectly aligned to drop in, but when it was in it spun freely. I whacked the yoke from all 4 sides with a mallet and it freed it up a bit more. I used Loctite 620 instead of the recommended 609 as it's rated to 450 degrees vs 300. My trans gets up around 300 in a hot summer race I'm sure, so a little breathing room was in order.
Next I got the axle in. I felt that the preload on the diff bearings was a little tight. By feel, it's noticeable but tapping in the shims didn't feel excessive. I'm going to remove the diff tomorrow and put it back on the press to verify that the bearings are fully seated. Probably have to check wear pattern again too.
Next I came home, cleaned the mating surfaces, and got the tail housing back on. Then I JB Welded the breather back into the case. It wasn't a press fit anymore so with a clean, oil free case now was the time to glue it in.
Hopefully I didn't **** anything up in this and it works like a dream. Not holding my breath.
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