Talk about finding a 'positive' in your 'negative' situation....
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What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2021]
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I nabbed a pair of GenV 454 valve covers today. Been waiting for a set to come my way since last year.
I yoinked an LS dash from my donor car for my LT 4th gen because I like to live dangerously.
Thinking I'll rock the V6 cluster for the LT motor. I also snagged a 411 LS PCM from the pull and pay yesterday to run my LT1 like a 350 Vortec. I'm guinea pigging it for my racing series.
I yoinked an LS dash from my donor car for my LT 4th gen because I like to live dangerously.
Thinking I'll rock the V6 cluster for the LT motor. I also snagged a 411 LS PCM from the pull and pay yesterday to run my LT1 like a 350 Vortec. I'm guinea pigging it for my racing series.
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Fresh out jail bishes... hit me with all your Cub questions. Quick, before I have a differing opinion and get banned again.
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Tonight was Tatiana's (aka. The Natural) last game of the season. Her improvement with hitting, fielding, and throwing has been monumental despite losing an entire season in 2020. After the game and collecting her medal, we went for a little Daddy/Daughter time to celebrate at the tail end of our local cruise night... school night or not.
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Two evenings ago, I arrived home from work and found that the carpet for my Pinto had arrived more than 3 weeks earlier than expected.
I won't be ready to install it for a while, so I shoved the box into the front seat area of the Pinto for temporary storage.
I won't be ready to install it for a while, so I shoved the box into the front seat area of the Pinto for temporary storage.
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When we last encountered our geriatric wrench puller, he had just solved the Mystery of the Evil, Brutally Hard Tip in on the FI Tech unit in his non G-Body G-Body. However, accomplishing this goal subsequently revealed another problem, that being that the motor now displayed the tendency to want to diesel after igntion turn off. For the Carb-o-crats, turning off the ignition turns off the fuel pump and FI units do not have fuel bowls to hold fuel in reserve for start ups, they are immediately and directly fed based on demand as identified by the computer.
After some absent minded cogitation on the matter, one overworked little grey brain cell finally dredged up the memory that, last year, it had been discovered that the FI-TEch units actually did have an idle stop screw on the throttle shaft and that the screw could be tweaked to raise the throttle blades in an attempt to reduce the amount of "shoe" needed to initiate tip in. With the old throttle cable stud location, this tweak really had had some effect but not that significant an amount. However.........................
As I had noted several pages back on this forum, changing the location of the cable stud to move it farther away from the throttle blade shaft did solve the Tip In, but at the time i didn't go back to the idle stop screw and back it off a pub** hair or two to allow the throttle blades to drop back and return to covering the idle bypass slots as they properly ought to have been doing. Advancing the screw had exposed the bypass and, even with the key off, residual fuel in the bypass slot was dripping down into the manifold and the ambient heat in the combustion chambers was sufficient to ignite it, hence the "sneezes" or dieseling.
A test drive this AM proved that I was headed in the right direction with this as the, in park, idle surge that had also been bugging me had also disappeared. A little of the sneeze still persisted so I back the screw out another hair or so and will be making another test drive tomorrow at some point.
What is still a nuisance now is that, on initial start up, I don't get enough rpm to get the alternator to self iniitate. It should do it around 800 rpm or slightly higher. This might be the advance weights in the timer again as I swapped out the generic ones that I had been using for a matched pair of genuine GM ones and I may have to go ligher in weight on them to get them to snap out faster during start up to get that few seconds of rev's that will satisfy the alternator's need for speed. There's a lot of counter-intuitive thinking going on here about weight versus the amount of centrifugal force needed to pull them off base. but where this is going is that the lighter weights will open up at lower rpm's which will allow the engine to enter it's warm up mode and then come back to slow idle faster as it warms up.
Hey, no rocket scientists here, just me trying to avoid burning out any more little gray brain cells than the situation demands. They don't grow on trees and I am not sure how many of them are actually taking care of business and how many are just sort of along for the ride.
Nick
After some absent minded cogitation on the matter, one overworked little grey brain cell finally dredged up the memory that, last year, it had been discovered that the FI-TEch units actually did have an idle stop screw on the throttle shaft and that the screw could be tweaked to raise the throttle blades in an attempt to reduce the amount of "shoe" needed to initiate tip in. With the old throttle cable stud location, this tweak really had had some effect but not that significant an amount. However.........................
As I had noted several pages back on this forum, changing the location of the cable stud to move it farther away from the throttle blade shaft did solve the Tip In, but at the time i didn't go back to the idle stop screw and back it off a pub** hair or two to allow the throttle blades to drop back and return to covering the idle bypass slots as they properly ought to have been doing. Advancing the screw had exposed the bypass and, even with the key off, residual fuel in the bypass slot was dripping down into the manifold and the ambient heat in the combustion chambers was sufficient to ignite it, hence the "sneezes" or dieseling.
A test drive this AM proved that I was headed in the right direction with this as the, in park, idle surge that had also been bugging me had also disappeared. A little of the sneeze still persisted so I back the screw out another hair or so and will be making another test drive tomorrow at some point.
What is still a nuisance now is that, on initial start up, I don't get enough rpm to get the alternator to self iniitate. It should do it around 800 rpm or slightly higher. This might be the advance weights in the timer again as I swapped out the generic ones that I had been using for a matched pair of genuine GM ones and I may have to go ligher in weight on them to get them to snap out faster during start up to get that few seconds of rev's that will satisfy the alternator's need for speed. There's a lot of counter-intuitive thinking going on here about weight versus the amount of centrifugal force needed to pull them off base. but where this is going is that the lighter weights will open up at lower rpm's which will allow the engine to enter it's warm up mode and then come back to slow idle faster as it warms up.
Hey, no rocket scientists here, just me trying to avoid burning out any more little gray brain cells than the situation demands. They don't grow on trees and I am not sure how many of them are actually taking care of business and how many are just sort of along for the ride.
Nick
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