What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2021]

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Two evenings ago, I arrived home from work and found that the carpet for my Pinto had arrived more than 3 weeks earlier than expected.
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I won't be ready to install it for a while, so I shoved the box into the front seat area of the Pinto for temporary storage.
Hope you have better luck with them than I did, I would recommend looking over everything so if there's a problem its handled now. They were awesome when I got the Monte carpet, been nothing but a headache with the Blazer
 
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Technically it was yesterday. Replaced all the fuel lines on the old Craftsman chain saw. It has been drained and stored away for about 5 years since it's a smaller 18". I decided to drag it out and get it going again. It always seemed to be pretty reliable. Poulan made it for Craftsman if I recall correctly. Put a new blade on it, new plug and air filter, flushed and refilled the bar oil resi and the fuel tank. That's when the filter fell out with half the fuel line. More a PITA than anything, but long reach needle nose pliers can be your friend doing this.

It's a 2004 and it's kind of weird. The replacement fuel lines for 2012 and older are 3/32" and 1/8". However, the original smaller fuel line (main line) was a hair larger than 1/8", but still smaller than the 3/32". Of course, none of that could be found. The line I had bought was the same external diameter of the original fuel line, but internally it was a bit smaller. Strange. It was a PITA to get the end of it over the filter nipple. Looking back I think I could have just drilled out the tank hose pass through hole and used the 3/32" line. I test fitted it to the carb after it was back together and it seemed like it would work just fine. If I ever have to do it again that's what I'll do.

It took a bit to get it all primed up and cranked, but once it started, it behaved like it used to. I cut down 2 pine trees next to the woods without issue (granted, they were young- only like 3" in diamater) and it idled great and I didn't even have to adjust the carb at all.

Now I'm ready for next month (Halloween)
ee6e782e84f6def4e036000e79f3e5aff1-17-leatherface-movie.rsquare.w700.jpg
 
Technically it was yesterday. Replaced all the fuel lines on the old Craftsman chain saw. It has been drained and stored away for about 5 years since it's a smaller 18". I decided to drag it out and get it going again. It always seemed to be pretty reliable. Poulan made it for Craftsman if I recall correctly. Put a new blade on it, new plug and air filter, flushed and refilled the bar oil resi and the fuel tank. That's when the filter fell out with half the fuel line. More a PITA than anything, but long reach needle nose pliers can be your friend doing this.

It's a 2004 and it's kind of weird. The replacement fuel lines for 2012 and older are 3/32" and 1/8". However, the original smaller fuel line (main line) was a hair larger than 1/8", but still smaller than the 3/32". Of course, none of that could be found. The line I had bought was the same external diameter of the original fuel line, but internally it was a bit smaller. Strange. It was a PITA to get the end of it over the filter nipple. Looking back I think I could have just drilled out the tank hose pass through hole and used the 3/32" line. I test fitted it to the carb after it was back together and it seemed like it would work just fine. If I ever have to do it again that's what I'll do.

It took a bit to get it all primed up and cranked, but once it started, it behaved like it used to. I cut down 2 pine trees next to the woods without issue (granted, they were young- only like 3" in diamater) and it idled great and I didn't even have to adjust the carb at all.

Now I'm ready for next month (Halloween)
ee6e782e84f6def4e036000e79f3e5aff1-17-leatherface-movie.rsquare.w700.jpg
See, this is what you head up to PA. There's this guy who sells large quantities of chainsaws out of his trunk.
 
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When we last encountered our geriatric wrench puller, he had just solved the Mystery of the Evil, Brutally Hard Tip in on the FI Tech unit in his non G-Body G-Body. However, accomplishing this goal subsequently revealed another problem, that being that the motor now displayed the tendency to want to diesel after igntion turn off. For the Carb-o-crats, turning off the ignition turns off the fuel pump and FI units do not have fuel bowls to hold fuel in reserve for start ups, they are immediately and directly fed based on demand as identified by the computer.

After some absent minded cogitation on the matter, one overworked little grey brain cell finally dredged up the memory that, last year, it had been discovered that the FI-TEch units actually did have an idle stop screw on the throttle shaft and that the screw could be tweaked to raise the throttle blades in an attempt to reduce the amount of "shoe" needed to initiate tip in. With the old throttle cable stud location, this tweak really had had some effect but not that significant an amount. However.........................

As I had noted several pages back on this forum, changing the location of the cable stud to move it farther away from the throttle blade shaft did solve the Tip In, but at the time i didn't go back to the idle stop screw and back it off a pub** hair or two to allow the throttle blades to drop back and return to covering the idle bypass slots as they properly ought to have been doing. Advancing the screw had exposed the bypass and, even with the key off, residual fuel in the bypass slot was dripping down into the manifold and the ambient heat in the combustion chambers was sufficient to ignite it, hence the "sneezes" or dieseling.

A test drive this AM proved that I was headed in the right direction with this as the, in park, idle surge that had also been bugging me had also disappeared. A little of the sneeze still persisted so I back the screw out another hair or so and will be making another test drive tomorrow at some point.

What is still a nuisance now is that, on initial start up, I don't get enough rpm to get the alternator to self iniitate. It should do it around 800 rpm or slightly higher. This might be the advance weights in the timer again as I swapped out the generic ones that I had been using for a matched pair of genuine GM ones and I may have to go ligher in weight on them to get them to snap out faster during start up to get that few seconds of rev's that will satisfy the alternator's need for speed. There's a lot of counter-intuitive thinking going on here about weight versus the amount of centrifugal force needed to pull them off base. but where this is going is that the lighter weights will open up at lower rpm's which will allow the engine to enter it's warm up mode and then come back to slow idle faster as it warms up.

Hey, no rocket scientists here, just me trying to avoid burning out any more little gray brain cells than the situation demands. They don't grow on trees and I am not sure how many of them are actually taking care of business and how many are just sort of along for the ride.



Nick

Do you have a startup function where you can command more airflow so it flares for a bit before settling back down to commanded speed?
 
well yesterday my trusty 2003 Safari tried to un-live itself. drove it all day tugging a trailer with a yard of gravel in it to fill some sign holes and fence posts we cannot concrete. Got back to shop, unhooked said trailer in its spot. I rolled about 10 feet ahead before magic smoke came out from under the hood and it stalled. Would crank but not fire. Opened the hood and portions of the harness were glowing red. I pulled Fire and Theft off it years ago so I disconnected the battery to save what was left 🙂 Took 4 grown men to push that damn heavy van into a spot.

Dunno what to do about it. Driven it since 05 and its been treated like a 5 tonne truck at times. I've never liked it but its been so trusty and versatile for 16 years now
 
Just finishing a lunch break after getting the eng/trans combo dropped into the Pinto. Many details to work on, I don't think that I'll have it started and running for several more weeks. By my rough measurements, I believe the trans to be about 3/4 inch longer than the old one, which means that I may well have to get the driveshaft shortened. I plan on installing an electric fuel pump, need to reinstall the fuel tank, and on&on the list goes.
 
Tore the carb down and reformed the accel pump check ball seat, put the spring BEHIND the fuel filter (oops), and changed some very ashy plugs on the truck. I'm getting really good at fixing plug wires with ripped off terminals.
Also fixed the damn passenger door.

Also, I like my garage.
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Not really a project but it needs a little work. Not sure if I told you guys but on July 27 I sold my rust bucket gmt800 after Lauren and I did rockers cab corners and mellowed out the bed sides it looked good painted and I sold it for $6000 later that day I went to a dealer in Patterson New Jersey on railroad avenue and bought a GMT 900 I've been driving it daily and I Love it. Of course every light on the dash is on. Because we'll it's mine lol it's had some modifications/work done and today I finally poked around to check out what was done. It's got aftermarket aluminum fuel lines mbrp exhaustand a fast pump. 5 setting tuner fabtech suspension and 35"s on 20"s it seems like the tuner is 1 for a little over stock or economy. 2 seems to be towing 3 is some kind of beast mode and with that what feels like launch control. I haven't gone beyond 3 I don't know if I want to because I don't know how bullet proof it is at 240,000 miles. But all and all it's a good truck with very little rot.
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And it's got a hood scoop!
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It's a little dirty in the pictures but it's hard keeping a black on black daily driver clean.
 
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