What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2021]

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So to replace my old Delco radio, I found a guy selling some for cheap.

First got a Caddy Delco symphony sound radio, that had a bunch of distorting issues, which clipped and pretty much cooked my Cerwin Vega XL subs lmfao. Who knows a speaker recone guy in Ontario? 😭

Returned that, and got a Camaro one with the gold painting. This one half worked, so I said to hell with getting a ride back and began a recap job, which hasn’t been too bad, however the amp chips will have to come out and be swapped.

Good news is the traces are mostly intact, but most of the solder pads are f u c k i n g stupidly brittle from age and having cap juice leak pretty much in the most terrible of spots lol.


(Excuse the mess of wires, some of the caps that were original had a different angle, than the ones I had from spare computer stuff.)
 
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Had a little run in with a sign with my daily 2 weeks ago. Was coming home from the Drs. Need surgery on my shoulder and the best dr in my area punted to a specialist at John Hopkins in Baltimore. I was spacing out thinking about all that fun sh*t and was going a little too fast on a curvy road. Went straight thru a 90 degree turn into a yard and took out a sign. I was ok, drove home but the car took some damage. Was lucky to find parts in the same color so no paint work!
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Sold my daily driver, 2016 Mustang GT, and picked up something more comfortable, this 2013 Lincoln MKS Ecoboost.

Had the stock wheels powder coated. Looks a little sportier. Needs tint next.

Switched to a 3 bar map sensor and did a Gearhead auto octane tune. It went from. Pretty fast to a beast. Thing is way more fun to drive than my Mustang, no wheel spin ever (AWD) and gives you an massage while flying down the road.

My goal is to get into the 12s. New downpipes and exhaust up next.
 
Insert cursing

My wife has kindly reminded me the winter beater Rainier rear main seal leak should be fixed. I begrudgingly agreed. I was planning to replace it with a newer winter beater but prices are higher than Willy Nelson and I am going to wait until the spring, so this thing needs to get me through another winter.

I spent 6 hours today trying to get the trans out and got as far as the Y pipe removed, trans filter changed and cross member along with the driveshafts removed. Everything is rusty, stuck, or impossibly hard to access.

Beyond that, probably one of the worst projects I have ever done.

All 6 manifold to Y pipe bolts had to be heated with my MAP gas/oxy torch, the frame had to get sawzalled in an area where the crossmember mounts, and I had to saw the Y pipe in half along with smashing an O2 out of the way to clear the frame to remove the Y from the frame. Total PITA.

The trans cooler lines are almost impossible to get to where they attach to the trans, there is almost zero room to get the torque converter bolts out, and the wiring for the trans is also hard to get to. I need to pull the starter and attempt to get the torque converter bolts out but again really tight. It's clear the GMT360 chassis was never designed from the onset to get a LS and it was an afterthought.

The only good news is the 100k mile old fluid in the 275k mile 4l60e looked really good and there was almost zero goo in the pan minus a little normal metal dust on the magnet.

It's a whole crap load of work for a leaky rear main. I gave up for the night. I think I am going to just slap everything back in and ignore the rear main and let it drip. If I find motivation this weekend I MIGHT try to pull the trans but my motivation is below zero on this.
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Thx to 83streetmachine I am changing my wipe linkage arm in my 82 MC👌🏽
 

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installed a tach in the truck
its bad
should have known. damn near every cheapo equus gauge ive ever bought has been faulty. i wish they still made the sunpro tachs.
also adjusted the nss so it now starts in park and neutralis instead of reverse and drive. 😀

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Insert cursing

My wife has kindly reminded me the winter beater Rainier rear main seal leak should be fixed. I begrudgingly agreed. I was planning to replace it with a newer winter beater but prices are higher than Willy Nelson and I am going to wait until the spring, so this thing needs to get me through another winter.

I spent 6 hours today trying to get the trans out and got as far as the Y pipe removed, trans filter changed and cross member along with the driveshafts removed. Everything is rusty, stuck, or impossibly hard to access.

Beyond that, probably one of the worst projects I have ever done.

All 6 manifold to Y pipe bolts had to be heated with my MAP gas/oxy torch, the frame had to get sawzalled in an area where the crossmember mounts, and I had to saw the Y pipe in half along with smashing an O2 out of the way to clear the frame to remove the Y from the frame. Total PITA.

The trans cooler lines are almost impossible to get to where they attach to the trans, there is almost zero room to get the torque converter bolts out, and the wiring for the trans is also hard to get to. I need to pull the starter and attempt to get the torque converter bolts out but again really tight. It's clear the GMT360 chassis was never designed from the onset to get a LS and it was an afterthought.

The only good news is the 100k mile old fluid in the 275k mile 4l60e looked really good and there was almost zero goo in the pan minus a little normal metal dust on the magnet.

It's a whole crap load of work for a leaky rear main. I gave up for the night. I think I am going to just slap everything back in and ignore the rear main and let it drip. If I find motivation this weekend I MIGHT try to pull the trans but my motivation is below zero on this.
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Man that's a lot of work.

My wife would've gotten a $1 oil pan from dollar tree to park over and be done with it.
 
Man that's a lot of work.

My wife would've gotten a $1 oil pan from dollar tree to park over and be done with it.
x2. That's a bunch of work to do on a South Western car. I shudder thinking about having to do all that on a North Eastern ride....
 
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