What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2021]

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Done. Shot the undercoating this afternoon. Swapped the extension cord off the welder and over to the space heater to generate a little warmth to help the curing process. Returned the wheels back onto their respective corners. Plan now is to set it down off the hard stands tomorrow, using the floor jacks, just enough to ground the tires on the floor and then take a torque wrench to the wheel nuts before setitng it down entirely and doing a test run and burn in on the new pipes. All goes well, it comes out to play again and the van come back in for winter storage. Takes too long now for the van to get enough heat in its coolant to the point where it is comfortable to drive. I have never liked to move a cold engine; even the S-10 gets a few minutes to allow the coolant to circulate and warm up some. Too much of my driving is short distance stop and go and allowing some warm up time makes it easier on the motor; Jus' My Opinion.

Still have a few projects before winter shut down. Given what the gas bill was for heating the shop last year and the fact that the gas companies are raising prices again so that they can double dip by exporting gas overseas at a premium plus per cubic meter and upcharge domestic consumers into the bargain, I can't see any value in keeping the shop warm. If I feel the urge I can boot up the electric space heater-200V- for the time needed to visit the shop and shut it down again at day's end. Electric heat is no cheaper and that box heater will do the job but gobbles kilowatts like they're popcorn getting eaten at a movie theater.

At some point the van will need to have its exhaust pipes dropped again. Both manifolds need studs and that is a job I am not looking forward to as those manifolds, to the best of my knowledge, have never been off the heads. No room to get a long bar in there for leverage on the bolts and they are probably OEM into the bargain. DOUBLE BOTHER!!!!

Pictures while it (the frame/chassis) is still pretty? HMMMM, could be...............................



Nick
 
That's a funny looking chainsaw.
Still a relatively small motor that will burn lots of oil though right? And an item many people discard rather than put the work into fixing.... so.... resemblances are there's, just needs an orange and grey paint job.
 
Still a relatively small motor that will burn lots of oil though right? And an item many people discard rather than put the work into fixing.... so.... resemblances are there's, just needs an orange and grey paint job.
Small relative to what? A Peterbilt? Lol
May as well glue them in the out position on that rig.
Damn straight. Just wait till I put the stacks on it and get the Carolina squat going.
 
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Took my new to me 390 down to the short block. Bores have very little cross hatching, if any, but they'll clean up enough with a ball hone. had felpro head gaskets, so the heads have been off before. It's stock bore, stock size factory ford bearings, or at least bearings with the ford logo and part number from 1968. Rod bearings are worn, mains have copper showing. so just rings bearings gaskets and a cam kit.
 
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Small relative to what? A Peterbilt? Lol

Damn straight. Just wait till I put the stacks on it and get the Carolina squat going.
We may need to really call it the Pittsburgh squat now for real. Did you hear that they passed a bill making that sagging rear suspension illegal stating in a couple months? Won't find the Carolina squat in the home of its creation anymore, not legally anyways...
 
More work on the Leg Breaker 4 wheeler, new rear caliper to replace the frozen one, spent an hour messing with bleeding it then pulled the master cylinder to find it was seized, Ordered up a new Amazon one to replace it.
 
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Just a couple of shots of the S-10 chassis post refinishing.

In order of appearance, what happened was that first the frame rails were stripped of all the old cover material and chipped down using a chipping hammer from the welding deck to get rid of the klingons that didn't succumb to the initial material tear off.

Then the rails were wire wheeled down some more to eliminate any loose dust or particles. Killed two cup wheels in the process.

The first coat applied was a liberal wash of SEM Rust Mort that was allowed to dry for 24 hours. Used both a roller for the big flat surfaces and a brush to get into the cracks and crevices and places where brackets and tabs joined the main rails. Anywhere it hits rust it turns white. it will also try to lift the finish off a concrete floor. Use cardboard as a sacrificial surface to absorb the leaks.

Over the Rust Mort went a coat of POR-15 rust encapsulator. For this I used a 24 hour dry time.

Over the POR-15 went a coat of Krylon Anti rust black. I have heard conflicting stories about whether the POR can stand alone once applied and set, or whether it should get a protective overcoat of some kind. Better safe than sorry so went with the Krylon. Again, used a 24 hour dry time.

Over the Krylon went the Duplicolor CDA flat black enamel. That got the 24 hour treatment also.

Finally on went the 3M 08883 black undercoat. Last two cans in the shop and over 10 years old and they still laid down as if brand new. Good thing because my one supplier has a No Order warning on the stuff and the other says none available in Canada. Told 'em to backorder it.

All this just because the local squirrels can't be bothered to slow down in the winter and sue the city for negligence when they get into accidents even if it is their own d*** fault 'cause they can take responsibility for their own actions either. So the city throws salt and calcium by the running ton on the roads and cars have lives of 5 years or less, unless you are a***/OCD about cleaning your metal and recoating it regularly to protect it.



Nick
 
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