What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2021]

[CopperNick]

Being disinclined to venture out to the shop, I elected to head for the basement and putter around down there. Threw some more time at my gas tank dolly that I am creating to move the tanks for my Mig welder. Shortened the centre sleeve on the axle to gain room for the outboard washer/spacers yesterday, so went to work on fitting the outboard spacers so they butt up against the wheel hub sleeves snugly enough to make the bearings rotate as they should. Ended up by having to shave the washers down around the outer circumference using the bench grinder and test fitting them every few turns. Y'all know my thoughts about off shore made quality and in this case that was what I bumped into as the outer half of the tire rim had been stamped with the centre hole eccentric instead of being concentric. Didn't affect how the hub indexed into position (that was an entirely separate issue) but did cause my washers to crash into the edges of that center hole instead of floating cleanly. Ideally, i should have been able to chuck them into the lathe and shave them that way but where is a 5/8ths bolt when you need one? Nowhere close enough that I could lay hands on one so it was plan X and hand shave them using the grinder. They both fit now, although I may revisit one just to reduce it just a few thou more just to make me happy(er). Next item on the agenda is to drill the axle for cotter or "R" pins to keep the whole mess together. Still looking for something to make the shoe or base plate from. Thinking maybe an old shovel head, cut the tube for the handle off and flatten it in the press; doesn't have to be pretty, just wide enough to take a C20 bottle comfortably. Yeah, yeah, pictures........



Nick

 

[CopperNick]

Yeah it did, Sorry man, Wish I would have known. if you are really hard up for one I;m sure I can find one in the dozens of s10 trucks and blazers we had in the local upull it, If it even stops frigging raining, i'll take a look, Yours a early 2nd gen or later ? I think the dash changed in 98 , not sure about the door panels

Don't be. No way you could have known I was on the hunt and no way i could have known you had a corpsicle about to be sent to the crusher.

Mine is a 2003 S-10 LS extended cab, three door with the driver's side having the third or jump door. I have the switches and the door panels and the power regulators and door locks and related hardware, The problem is sourcing the correct harnesses because there are two versions. One is for power windows with key type door locks, and the other is for the key fob or remote door release system. All I can find around here is the remote lock versions and they have so many additional wires in them for the antennas and sensors plus they need to talk to one of the computers for some reason which the non-remote versions do not. It gets worse when you talk Blazers because they are 4 door and their harnesses are more complicated again. Did try to edit one of the remote harnesses to convert it but even with the manual it is a stone b*t*h because the contemporary manuals don't offer full pictorial schematics, just subsystem overviews which are more written than picture.
Gave the attempt up because I couldn't determine if the remotes had an impact on the windows as well as the door locks. With the correct version of that harness, I can use it as a guide to re-pin the A-pillar connectors I have and from there to the fuse block. The switches themselves seem to stay common mostly because they cover multiple vehicles and years. Don't think whoever wrote the texts ever conceived of the necessity of doing a harness refit or upgrade outside of a dealer and dealers don't/won't even do it, they just want to sell new toys.

If you do happen to be visiting your local Pull It and can find and score a non-remote harness I would be highly interested. Do have to mention that I am located up in Canada which might make it a killer for the cost of the shipping, which cost of I would cheerfully add to whatever you want for your time and labor. And the other thing being the how of how I go about paying you. For me it is easiest and simplest to do a paypal "gift" That way they don't charge a fee for the money being sent. As for the shipper, I have personally had great success with USPS priority post because they have international version that "shakes hands" with Canada Post and I get package tracking even with it coming across the border. The big hassle is the paperwork; have to give that some thought but think that for items priced under 100.00 US there is no duty applied, just have to fill in the declaration form and that is more about generating paper to make customs happy than anything else. Usually takes about two weeks, even from as far south as Florida. The other option is to just ship it to the border and let it sit until the bureaucraps and the CDC/health Canada quit having their ongoing meltdown about Covid. Not going there; I have a small skid of stuff sitting in lockdown because I am "non-essential" and can't travel to retrieve it. Anyway, THANK YOU for the offer and let me know what you find in your travels.



Nick

 

[MrSony]

got it running again. sounds healthy, ebay carb works good after new accel pump diaphragm. old one was rock hard.
hasnt bent any pushrods yet. *knock on wood* then it stopped and wouldnt fire up.

mf distributor got stuck AGAIN, and ended up mysteriously exploding when trying to pry it out again. literally destroyed the thing to get it out, grabbed what was left of the shaft and the gear with vice grips and pulled it out.

I think the oil pump locked up, twisted driveshaft and i think sheared the dist. roll pin.

sweet.

looks like I can jack up the motor, remove the sway bar, and take the pan down that way. it's a front sump, so its got room. reading I guess this is a common ford thing. ford tough my white *ss.
makes buick oil pumps look like a masterclass in design comparatively.

 

[Texas82GP]

got it running again. sounds healthy, ebay carb works good after new accel pump diaphragm. old one was rock hard.
hasnt bent any pushrods yet. *knock on wood* then it stopped and wouldnt fire up.

mf distributor got stuck AGAIN, and ended up mysteriously exploding when trying to pry it out again. literally destroyed the thing to get it out, grabbed what was left of the shaft and the gear with vice grips and pulled it out.

I think the oil pump locked up, twisted driveshaft and i think sheared the dist. roll pin.

sweet.

looks like I can jack up the motor, remove the sway bar, and take the pan down that way. it's a front sump, so its got room. reading I guess this is a common ford thing. ford tough my white *ss.
makes buick oil pumps look like a masterclass in design comparatively.

On Dad's Galaxie, I pulled the sway bar loose, dropped the pan, then dropped the pickup into the pan. No need to jack up the engine. Food for thought.

 

[Supercharged111]

got it running again. sounds healthy, ebay carb works good after new accel pump diaphragm. old one was rock hard.
hasnt bent any pushrods yet. *knock on wood* then it stopped and wouldnt fire up.

mf distributor got stuck AGAIN, and ended up mysteriously exploding when trying to pry it out again. literally destroyed the thing to get it out, grabbed what was left of the shaft and the gear with vice grips and pulled it out.

I think the oil pump locked up, twisted driveshaft and i think sheared the dist. roll pin.

sweet.

looks like I can jack up the motor, remove the sway bar, and take the pan down that way. it's a front sump, so its got room. reading I guess this is a common ford thing. ford tough my white *ss.
makes buick oil pumps look like a masterclass in design comparatively.

The 289 I had in my Crown Victoria had the oil pump suck up chunks of valve seal, locked the pump, and snapped the shaft. I've even heard of folks with thick oil in cold weather doing that with the Fords.

 

[CopperNick]

Think before diving into the teardown I would be looking for a replacement front cover just in case, along with the gaskets and seals to stuff it in.

Also wondering here if Moroso makes a heavy duty drive shaft and matching gear for your timer and pump. Do remember reading about builders commenting on having to match distributor gears according to the type of cam.in the motor. This would all be moot if your cam is stock but the gist was that certain cam applications required special distributor gears, i.e. bronze, so that premature wear or damage could be avoided.

Again, very probably not relevant to why everything locked up on you except that one other thing that got mentioned was cam walk. Under some circumstances Chev/GM cams try to walk forward. I don't believe it is an issue with a stock cam but it is why cam buttons are provided for use with certain types of aftermarket units.

For a Ford what might be possible is that the cam is trying also trying to walk. However, for the Ford, it becomes a question of which way. By this I mean that, unlike the Chev cam which only attempts to move toward the front of the motor, the Ford cam might be trying to move toward either the back of the motor or, equally possibly, towards the front too. If it is trying to move away or to the back, this motion or movement would have the consequence of pulling the drive gear on the cam away from the gear on the distributor. With the two gears now misaligned with respect to each other as well as not meshing completely like they are supposed to, well there is only so much room in the cavity where they come together so they lock up or jam on each other. Alternatively, if the cam is trying to walk forward, then the cam gear is getting pushed deeper into the distributor gear, making it harder for both to turn and possibly forcing the distributor gear into contact with the cavity wall. In either case the oil pump drive shaft is the weakest link, so it breaks.

Ah, Big Caveat Here. All this is just me speculating. Realistically it will take a post mortem on the mill to find out the why of what failed. As noted, this is an apparent chronic weak spot in the Fords. The race world might be one possibility for an answer or cure as the 1320 boys have probably long since encountered this and figured out a cure or fix for it.



Nick

 

[81cutlass]

got it running again. sounds healthy, ebay carb works good after new accel pump diaphragm. old one was rock hard.
hasnt bent any pushrods yet. *knock on wood* then it stopped and wouldnt fire up.

mf distributor got stuck AGAIN, and ended up mysteriously exploding when trying to pry it out again. literally destroyed the thing to get it out, grabbed what was left of the shaft and the gear with vice grips and pulled it out.

I think the oil pump locked up, twisted driveshaft and i think sheared the dist. roll pin.

sweet.

looks like I can jack up the motor, remove the sway bar, and take the pan down that way. it's a front sump, so its got room. reading I guess this is a common ford thing. ford tough my white *ss.
makes buick oil pumps look like a masterclass in design comparatively.

Buddy of mine has a 302 ranchero and his distributor to oil pump drive shaft twisted and sheared off. I'd take a look at that first if a BBF is the same as a Windsor

 

[Texas82GP]

If it has a HV oil pump, the upgraded distributor driveshaft is a must with them, at least it is with FE's. It could be cold oil+stock shaft+HV pump but that's pure conjecture.

 

[Supercharged111]

Is the motor hurt or not? I didn't get that impression before my last post. My 289 survived that ordeal, but I did roll in new bearings.

 

[melloelky]

Today works in the garage with dad...

Tomorrow she'll be working in a garage with her boyfriend. Time sure does fly

good luck to that lad,dad's no pushover..