What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]

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Don't think the terrorists can do much with a tendon that is damaged. They usually go one of two ways, either they heal on their own, or they require external attention. If external attention, that usually means a surgeon; get one that is familiar with sports injuries, they tend to have more and better specialized knowledge about dealing with that kind of damage.



Nick
 
Bought..... more junk.

View attachment 203354

Has one of those relatively decent powermore engines in it, 547cc.

A guy was going to make a 'racing mower'out of it so it's somewhat tore up. So I've got two choices, put it together which will take... I dunno what.

They thought a spindle was froze. Pulled the deck at home to learn some idiot just pulled a rope in and wound it up till it jammed. Cut things away. Cleaned and lubed up. Everything is free turning, still has stickers on pulleys, and, blades look unused. So that's good at least.

Worst case scenario, parts is parts. Couldn't go wrong for the price.

$75, and I didn't even use a full gallon of gas picking it up.

You're sounding like me. Briggs Intek?
 
I have been battling my GYPs AC system for years. I refused to rip out the dash to get at the evaporator so I used a good sealer that has worked for me for years. It did actually seal the leak. But eventually my high side pressure got too high and was cycling the system on and off. I knew the orifice tube was probably clogged but mother NOPAR decided to locate it in the middle of the liquid line and used those impossible spring clamps at each end. After a day and a half of battling those clamps I got the line free. I cut the middle open and removed the totally gunked up orifice tube with 22 years of crud. IMG_0439.JPG Then I used a hardware store compression union to close it back up. I then cut the line where it was accessible, up near the receiver/drier. I used an orifice repair kit that someone on here wised me up to a while back. Now I can open the line and swap out an orifice tube without taking half the GYP apart. I charged it up without even vacuuming it down just to see if it leaked or worked. It works! I got 30° below ambient but my high side is still too high. Tomorrow if it didn't leak out I will evacuate, vacuum down, and add the correct amount of r134. A hokey fix but I am still refusing to open the dashboard for this. IMG_0440.JPGIMG_0443_01.JPG
 
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I have ben battling my GYPs AC system for years. I refused to rip out the dash to get at the evaporator so I used a good sealer that has worked for me for years. It did actually seal the leak. But eventually my high side pressure got too high and was cycling the system on and off. I knew the orifice tube was probably clogged but mother NOPAR decided to locate it in the middle of the liquid line and used those impossible spring clamps at each end. After a day and a half of battling those clamps I got the line free. I cut the middle open and removed the totally gunked up orifice tube with 22 years of crud. View attachment 203358 Then I used a hardware store compression union to close it back up. I then cut the line where it was accessible, up near the receiver/drier. I used an orifice repair kit that someone on here wised me up to a while back. Now I can open the line and swap out an orifice tube without taking half the GYP apart. I charged it up without even vacuuming it down just to see if it leaked or worked. It works! I got 30° below ambient but my high side is still too high. Tomorroe if it didn't leak out I wll evacuate, vacuum down, and add the correct amount of r134. A hokey fix but I am still refusing to open the dashboard for this. View attachment 203359View attachment 203360
I didn't know you could cut them and put them back together
 
You're sounding like me. Briggs Intek?
Just the other day I was in a power equip dealer who was stihl factory authorized. They had a LOT of really nice displays, even had an early IH version of cub cadet restored with props. Was thinking it was the kinda place you'd live to hang out.

Not an intek engjne. It is MTDs branded engine. Code and serial number on the side identify it as their OHV powermore series, 547 cc.

Took the hood sheetmetal off since its rests on bolts to pivot, now it's just a frame, engine, transaxle and assorted parts that store easier.

Just need to figure out what to use it for
 
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I found a new gun to buy here on Friday so that will be some money spent on accessories and training with it. 🇺🇸

Nothing! It's the wife's birthday so Janet Lexi Lauren and I went to eat at a place called bonefish grill
There is one down here in Destin, me and mine have been there, good food. 🙂
 
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Just the other day I was in a power equip dealer who was stihl factory authorized. They had a LOT of really nice displays, even had an early IH version of cub cadet restored with props. Was thinking it was the kinda place you'd live to hang out.

Not an intek engjne. It is MTDs branded engine. Code and serial number on the side identify it as their OHC powermore series, 547 cc.

Took the hood sheetmetal off since its rests on bolts to pivot, now it's just a frame, engine, transaxle and assorted parts that store easier.

Just need to figure out what to use it for

Sounds like a cool place. I thought Briggs because there is an Intek that is 547cc but it's an OHV. Running engines of that size are always worth keeping. Hydro or geared transaxle?
 
Sounds like a cool place. I thought Briggs because there is an Intek that is 547cc but it's an OHV. Running engines of that size are always worth keeping. Hydro or geared transaxle?
Unfortunately hydro. Everything I run is geared so thay wouldnt even be a spare for me.

Could be they ripped off parts of the design from an intek, who knows. I've been trying to internet learn about it
 
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