I got them from www.thegearbox.org, but they're actually good to deal with. Tick gets their billet keys from them I learned today. RPM makes their own keys, but won't sell parts (only built trannies). G Force Transmissions had actually heard of the powdered metal keys, because they stock both them and the billet. Apparently the billet keys do wear like what I saw, but the powdered metal ones are worse. Since the guy I was talking to was in the middle of a trans build, I won't know until after lunch what kind of keys I have. He said the powdered ones are brown, and mine was kinda bronze/brown looking underneath the surface so we'll see.
What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]
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I got them from www.thegearbox.org, but they're actually good to deal with. Tick gets their billet keys from them I learned today. RPM makes their own keys, but won't sell parts (only built trannies). G Force Transmissions had actually heard of the powdered metal keys, because they stock both them and the billet. Apparently the billet keys do wear like what I saw, but the powdered metal ones are worse. Since the guy I was talking to was in the middle of a trans build, I won't know until after lunch what kind of keys I have. He said the powdered ones are brown, and mine was kinda bronze/brown looking underneath the surface so we'll see.
The T56 Magnum is a T56 case stuffed with TR6060 guts. Rockland can convert a T56 over to Magnum status, but I assume they modify the case somehow to make that happen.
Built6spdMCSS what are the weak spots on a 6060?
Synchro issues from what I've heard, never looked into it fully just bits and pieces.
That and if the fluid pump fails, Transmission is done.
Bad news good news just going to dump it all here. First the bad. Looks like my heads are another week out. He pressure checked them and they checked out ok but I have a few bad valve guides so all the valves went in the tumbler and the new guides got ordered in. In other bad news the 2 rear cab mount bushings in my truck are different than the rest. There like a hydraulic motor mount and the part I have to reuse doesn't fit my new bushings because they have an oval hole and the part to go threw them is round. Now for some good. One of the owners at globex performance nextdoor to me is going to machine the bushings to fit the round insert washer part. And now at kind of a stand still. One of my corporate bosses that I answer to tells me.you can't put this truck back together with this rotted dented front bumper! Your doing all this work make it nice. That said I pulled off the front bumper this morning and went nuts on it down in my bey with shop materials. Hey he said fix it LoL. I thought about just beating out the dents sanding it with 80 then 180 blasting it with chip guard and sending it but.... I got carried away. So I started on it around 9am it's 2 and it's in guide coat! And I took some pictures!
So first I took off the lower valance. Then I beat all the dents out of the face bar. Not an easy task. I quickly found I'm not the first to bodywork these parts and that opened mor cans of worms.
As you can probably see in the pictures it was rough and probably should have been replaced but I named that tune in one coat of plastic and one coat of putty.
It may seam excessive but in the grand scheme of things it's not going to look bad anymore. Once I had the final wipe of polyester putty sanded with 180 I turned my attention to the upper bumper cover. It had so many Stone ships it looked like it had been peppered with a shotgun.
So I buzzed it down with 180 as well only to find old body work there too
Not wanting to get to crazy I just went back over everything with 320 and a soft pad interface on the da then went back over it all with a red Scotch-Brite pad. 4 coats of 2k hides quite a bit of bad and it's not a show truck.
Tomorrow I'll hit them with 400 on the da with a soft pad interface then get some 8555 in the gun for full send! At some point this weekend I've got to weld a Chrysler 8 and 3/4 in a 1930 model A but now I need to shower and catch the seastreak in Atlantic Highlands. I'll get some pictures of that for you guys and post them up should be cool by boat I'm about 35 minutes from Manhattan
So first I took off the lower valance. Then I beat all the dents out of the face bar. Not an easy task. I quickly found I'm not the first to bodywork these parts and that opened mor cans of worms.
As you can probably see in the pictures it was rough and probably should have been replaced but I named that tune in one coat of plastic and one coat of putty.
It may seam excessive but in the grand scheme of things it's not going to look bad anymore. Once I had the final wipe of polyester putty sanded with 180 I turned my attention to the upper bumper cover. It had so many Stone ships it looked like it had been peppered with a shotgun.
So I buzzed it down with 180 as well only to find old body work there too
Not wanting to get to crazy I just went back over everything with 320 and a soft pad interface on the da then went back over it all with a red Scotch-Brite pad. 4 coats of 2k hides quite a bit of bad and it's not a show truck.
Tomorrow I'll hit them with 400 on the da with a soft pad interface then get some 8555 in the gun for full send! At some point this weekend I've got to weld a Chrysler 8 and 3/4 in a 1930 model A but now I need to shower and catch the seastreak in Atlantic Highlands. I'll get some pictures of that for you guys and post them up should be cool by boat I'm about 35 minutes from Manhattan
So the transaxle doesn't appear to be k46.
Part number is t2-cbee-5x5a-1xx1 and seems to be the mtd made unit:
Engine itself, without stripping further than the PO did, shows:
That is a Hydrogear T2, and they are worth roughly the same money as a K46.
It's a new world for me. I've always preferred the gear drive units, not just cheaper but generally more durable IMO.
I've always thought Hydrogear made a better axle than Tuff Torq. With small lawn tractors the gear drive units tend to be more durable but as you go up in size to garden tractors, SCUTs and bigger, everything is hydro. My Cub Cadet has a decent sized hydro with auxiliary circuits for running the plow and deck lift.
The engine isn't ringing a bell for me but its missing the plastics and intake which are usually key identifiers. Doesn't look like anything out of the ordinary.
They didn't include any of the normal style cover plastics with it, although, it had a weird ram air style plastics that funneled from the hood to the engjne. Did have a box with the carb and the like.
More likely than not I'll pull the engine off, add it in a box with the carb and related goodies. Put it on a table at a swap meet. Wait for a kid to come by interested in building their first go-kart or some such. Give it to them for free to learn to work on an engine and get into the hobby.
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