What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]

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Built two new ramps out of 2x6 lumber. Which I glued and screwed together. Three levels of 2x6s. Giving a 4.5" lift. These will be used for lawn tractors and Toyota. I will likely paint them today. I should be posting pics later today.
 
Pulled the rusty bed off the 2002 Ranger and found major rust issues with the frame. Both rear farme rails have rust holes where the spring shackle mounts attach to. Also the rear cross member which is also the spare tire carrier is badly rusted and has a couple of cracks on the mounting ears. Not sure what to do with it at this point with the truck requiring major repairs.
There's one with ~65k iirc for sale about 10 miles away for around $4-5k dunno if it's a 4x frame, of, how different they are in those years not being a SFA mountwise might be easy to move the t case members and such over.

Or, I'm sure, there's plenty of high mileage rust free donors cheaper.

One things for sure, I wouldn't buy anything new if I were you but given that you're already blowing the truck you had somewhat apart... well... one-outta-two wouldn't be that much more work would it?
 
There's one with ~65k iirc for sale about 10 miles away for around $4-5k dunno if it's a 4x frame, of, how different they are in those years not being a SFA mountwise might be easy to move the t case members and such over.

Or, I'm sure, there's plenty of high mileage rust free donors cheaper.

One things for sure, I wouldn't buy anything new if I were you but given that you're already blowing the truck you had somewhat apart... well... one-outta-two wouldn't be that much more work would it?
Its the first time I pulled a bed off of a truck. Was hoping to just build a new flat bed but didn't know the rear frame was so bad. The rear rails are just U channels riveted together. The Ranger is a 4x4 with the quad cab and smaller bed. I read there are differences i the frame between long and short bed models. There are a couple of companies that make rear frame repair pieces and replacement crossmembers but I don't how worth it it would be. Moreover, I only have a small 110 volt MIG welder, I would need a more powerful one for such big repairs.
 
Its the first time I pulled a bed off of a truck. Was hoping to just build a new flat bed but didn't know the rear frame was so bad. The rear rails are just U channels riveted together. The Ranger is a 4x4 with the quad cab and smaller bed. I read there are differences i the frame between long and short bed models. There are a couple of companies that make rear frame repair pieces and replacement crossmembers but I don't how worth it it would be. Moreover, I only have a small 110 volt MIG welder, I would need a more powerful one for such big repairs.
During the northern tour I saw a c10 looking like this:

Screenshot_20220928-195653_Chrome.jpg

Notice anything missing between the muffler and the spring perch at the top of the picture?
 
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During the northern tour I saw a c10 looking like this:

View attachment 209648

Notice anything missing between the muffler and the spring perch at the top of the picture?
My Ranger's rails don't look much better. Road salt really sucks.
 
My Ranger's rails don't look much better. Road salt really sucks.
That beet crap they spray now is even worse. It's like the corrosive opposite of fluid film.

To be honest, and this is just me, if you like the truck and have confidence in the powertrain I'd find a southern high mileage unit and swap the engine/trans/interior over, keep your old axles and misc for parts.

If it's as Swiss cheesed as that c10, it's gonna be tough to get the measurements right for major repairs in your yard and I'd have to imagine other spots are getting thin. If it's not squared up and trued for length it's going to drive, wear, and act funny like a bent frame from a major accident.

If it's just minor stuff like a tire carrier, we'll, that can be changed without much risk to geometry of the assembly. But one the actual frame rails themselves are gone.... eh. Just seems like the major expense of all the structural members and equipment approaches cost of a donor body. And the labor hours are probably less on a drivetrain and interior swap than major structural stuff.... at least, it would be for me.
 
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That beet crap they spray now is even worse. It's like the corrosive opposite of fluid film.

To be honest, and this is just me, if you like the truck and have confidence in the powertrain I'd find a southern high mileage unit and swap the engine/trans/interior over, keep your old axles and misc for parts.

If it's as Swiss cheesed as that c10, it's gonna be tough to get the measurements right for major repairs in your yard and I'd have to imagine other spots are getting thin. If it's not squared up and trued for length it's going to drive, wear, and act funny like a bent frame from a major accident.

If it's just minor stuff like a tire carrier, we'll, that can be changed without much risk to geometry of the assembly. But one the actual frame rails themselves are gone.... eh. Just seems like the major expense of all the structural members and equipment approaches cost of a donor body. And the labor hours are probably less on a drivetrain and interior swap than major structural stuff.... at least, it would be for me.
The core support up front is also very rusty. Already replaced several brake lines and ATF lines due to rust. The 5 year old rear shocks look like they are 50. Hate to put a fork in it but I suspect its too far gone. Guess I can try get some estimates from frame shops. If its too much its part out time.
 
Took the fam to the Mountains a couple weeks ago. On the way back down I noticed a little metal to metal crunchies hadn’t used the truck since. Pick up some pad and rotors today. This is what I pulled! 🤣 Gotta do a 5hr drive tomorrow for an 8.8

4DBDAA5C-D6FF-4612-8241-A4CA401E0205.jpeg
 
Looked around a bit online, mainly got spam from 'brokers' and squirrely guys who wouldn't talk specifics about what they tow with. Uship seems to be a waste of time.

Anyone know someone who wants to make some under the table cash to move a 146" wheelbase contractors van about 250 miles from metro Atlanta to coastal GA?

Battery is surely dead as its parked in storage long term post a light front end accident that bent fender and popped the radiator, although, tires good/hold air, rolls and steers. It did run and drive back when there was a working battery.
 
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