What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]
- Thread starter g0thiac
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Mounted the front wheels & C6 Z51 brake pieces (abutment adapter brackets/hubs/rotors/calipers) to verify clearances. Lock to lock w/no interference up front. Realized the Speedway swaybar mounting position is going to make getting a jack under the front problematic. Currently debating on mounting it through-frame vs. the relocated under frame spot (it's currently under the rail but closer to the a-arm vs. where GM had OE sway bars). The through-frame mounting would also decrease the arm angle putting it close to level when @ ride height which is pushing me toward moving forward w/that. The extra clearance under the rail is the icing on the cake.
Popped the driver side rear wheel/tire on as well for a visual. Unfortunately, it's a crap visual because I can't get a decent angle for viewing w/the cramped shop 🙄
Also got another new back window glass (to replace the new/locally cut back window glass) & door glass + the vent window assembly's are rebuilt/finished w/fresh parts/seals/glass.
Popped the driver side rear wheel/tire on as well for a visual. Unfortunately, it's a crap visual because I can't get a decent angle for viewing w/the cramped shop 🙄
Also got another new back window glass (to replace the new/locally cut back window glass) & door glass + the vent window assembly's are rebuilt/finished w/fresh parts/seals/glass.
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Found another that I want, but it's a project for sure and not a cheap one.
It checks 2 boxes: crew cab 3500 HD which means 15,000# GVW and enough room for the fam. It would need a fresh front and rear seat, carpet, front face swapped, doors without holes, and the dump bed sold in favor of a flatbed with toolboxes. And a Duramax swap. And 4wd. I could do it for a helluva lot cheaper than just buying something new, and I've been watching for one of these and it's the first one I've seen, but just thinking about all that work makes me shudder.
2000 GMC 3500 HD Crew Cab Dump Truck 8.1 liter Gas - cars & trucks -...
496 big block 8.1 liter vortec V8 engine automatic transmission runs and drives great has 207,000 MI no leaks no mechanical issues everything works dump bed works perfectly as well this truck is...
fortcollins.craigslist.org
It checks 2 boxes: crew cab 3500 HD which means 15,000# GVW and enough room for the fam. It would need a fresh front and rear seat, carpet, front face swapped, doors without holes, and the dump bed sold in favor of a flatbed with toolboxes. And a Duramax swap. And 4wd. I could do it for a helluva lot cheaper than just buying something new, and I've been watching for one of these and it's the first one I've seen, but just thinking about all that work makes me shudder.
Yup, is the work and cost of parts going in worth the gain? Converting to the 4wd is a pain too.
Cost of parts? Absolutely, especially when you figure in what I'll get selling what I don't need. Do I have the time? Not really, I may be relocating in 2.5 years and if you've seen my posts here the past few years you can see I'm already balls deep in a number of things. The dually I currently have was a project itself, but it had the blower and a really nice interior. This one starts a bit farther back. That said, I could buy it and sit on it since it's not broken.
So find a same year 3500 4wd that is wrecked, throw away the body and do a chassis swap. Gotta be a hulk or two siting in a local or nearby yard that would possess all the stuff you need and be available as a package. Bonus if it was a diesel but hey, still easier than doing a bitsa for time and labor.
Other matters. Actually took a little time during my search for the elusive wheel bearing end play jig to remove the Evap Canister from it's jury-rigged location in the G-10 and mock it up with a proper mounting bracket in the old location spot. Not the right bracket for the year but it can be adapted fairly easily once I remove most of the front fascia including the grill, headlight shrouds, and the lower gravel guard!!! At most it will need a pair of 5/16ths holes for the mounting bolts to complete the mechanical portion of the program. The tank breather line from the gas tank will have to be re-routed back onto its original path but that is just hose and plumbing; the hard line for that is still there. Last visit came with a surprise as i walked through the garden door to discover that the temperature in the shop had dropped enough that the heat had come back on. T-stat was set for 40 degrees so figure it must have dropped below that threshold at some point. That is warm enough to slide around in a bush jacket and bunny suit on a slab of heavy cardboard to slither under the front rad cradle and move the vent line. The rest of the canister tubes just get capped as what they used to do doesn't exist anymore. Be good to have that working as it should again. Solves the gas tank internal pressure problems that I was having to deal with when I ran the FI TEch.
Nick
Other matters. Actually took a little time during my search for the elusive wheel bearing end play jig to remove the Evap Canister from it's jury-rigged location in the G-10 and mock it up with a proper mounting bracket in the old location spot. Not the right bracket for the year but it can be adapted fairly easily once I remove most of the front fascia including the grill, headlight shrouds, and the lower gravel guard!!! At most it will need a pair of 5/16ths holes for the mounting bolts to complete the mechanical portion of the program. The tank breather line from the gas tank will have to be re-routed back onto its original path but that is just hose and plumbing; the hard line for that is still there. Last visit came with a surprise as i walked through the garden door to discover that the temperature in the shop had dropped enough that the heat had come back on. T-stat was set for 40 degrees so figure it must have dropped below that threshold at some point. That is warm enough to slide around in a bush jacket and bunny suit on a slab of heavy cardboard to slither under the front rad cradle and move the vent line. The rest of the canister tubes just get capped as what they used to do doesn't exist anymore. Be good to have that working as it should again. Solves the gas tank internal pressure problems that I was having to deal with when I ran the FI TEch.
Nick
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Not that simple, the C3500 HD was king of the GM pickups. Bigger than the cab and chassis trucks that were rated to 12k GVW and could be had with 4wd. The crew cabs are all custom and even rarer yet were the 4x4 conversions. It's built on a Workhorse frame, the front would simply get a solid axle. The rear axle is rated to 11,000# and the truck has 10 lug wheels. Beef with a side of beef.
1991 - 2002 Chevrolet & GMC C3500HD History, Specs
Information and history on the GMC/Chevrolet C3500HD, General Motors 15,000 lbs GVWR chassis cab produced between 1991 and 2002 model years. While the truck may appear like a standard 3500 model at first glance, it sits on a heavy duty frame that is far different than that of the pickup...
www.dieselhub.com
Significant difference with the manual vs 4L80E Ratios, manual one is crazy low, can pull trees with that.
1991 - 2002 Chevrolet & GMC C3500HD History, Specs
Information and history on the GMC/Chevrolet C3500HD, General Motors 15,000 lbs GVWR chassis cab produced between 1991 and 2002 model years. While the truck may appear like a standard 3500 model at first glance, it sits on a heavy duty frame that is far different than that of the pickup...
Significant difference with the manual vs 4L80E Ratios, manual one is crazy low, can pull trees with that.
Long term would either be an Allison or a ZF-6 transmission behind an LBZ. Neat thing about the 4L80 in the GMT455 is that it has a drum brake for the parking brake on the tail housing. With the axle so far back and the wheelbase so long, a camper with a 4 foot overhang would really be of no consequence. And there'd be enough room in front of the camper for a monster aux tank.
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