What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]

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Got a quote to replace the roof on the house. The house is now 25 years old and the roof is original. We had a couple shingles blow off over the winter and I can see a lot of them are cupping. We had 6 square replaced on the back of the house when the Oak tree fell on the house 3 years ago.
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The current shingles are 3 tab Owens Corning Supreme. New ones will be Owens Corning Duration Oakridge. Either Onyx Black or Estate Gray.

Out here you'd just wait for a hailstorm to take out the roof, then get a new one for free.
 
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Stayed home today and got involved in a long overdue project or several.i guess it depends on how you look at it.the house has a very small attached garage. Really to small for a car in fact when I tried to put my 87 cutlass in it years ago when we bought the house I couldn't close the garage door with it in there. That's why I'm always pursuing other avenues when it comes to a place to work on the cars. Well flash forwarded to now about 19 years and it's just become a catch-all for the ghosts of projects passed. So this time I approached it a little different than in the past. My logic is I work on the 78 at work and it's close to road ready I work on the 87 at the building where I rent. During the week I usually just come home from work eat and do not much of anything. Mostly surf tv and watch nothing or see what you guys are doing on gbf. So the plan is with the weather getting better and more daylight after work to spend a little time out there every night and do something I can finish even if it's small. And definitely get rid of STUFF! I don't even know what all I have out there. Today I dig in for a few hours and found most of what I need to do a long overdue project of upgrading my log splitter to a bigger pump and a vanguard v-twin engine I've had the pump,bracket,and lov-joy brand new for several years. I also have 2 vanguard v-twin engines missing a few parts off each but between them a complete engine. There both electric start and one is missing the starter. The other one has a bad Bendix gear so I went online and ordered a recoil kit. I figured I'd start by getting one running by hand before I start switching parts around. I don't know the history of one at all it's a 16 from a mower I think and it was free. The other one was from a commercial application. A roller so there's a good chance it's a 23. It's also the one with the bad starter and it's more complete. I'll keep cleaning up the mess during the week and when my recoil comes I'll see what engine is good. Hopefully by then I have enough room to get the splitter inside. The grand plan is to change the bump and valve so I can add a cylinder for a log lifter and I think I have enough junk laying around to do it. This is going to be my new thing small projects and getting rid of stuff at the same time.
 
HmmH. That kind of death rate has me wondering if the mfgr who supplied those batteries to GM might happen to speak Chinese. The battery in my van is AGM. Ran it flat last winter due to a memory fart and not attaching its battery baby sitter. The recharge took almost 3 days but it did recharge successfully. It is still in the van and I did remember to set up its battery tender this year. Put it on a timer so it gets 8 hrs of zots per day.
 
When you go to get the roof quote make sure they include the self adhesive rubber membrane. With that in place it lessens the chance of ice damming causing damage to the roof and even if you do lose shingles the membrane is there to keep the wood dry and resist leaks.



Nick
 
Could it be this event was the catalyst for the chainsaw hoarding? New mysteries abound
The world may never know...

When you go to get the roof quote make sure they include the self adhesive rubber membrane. With that in place it lessens the chance of ice damming causing damage to the roof and even if you do lose shingles the membrane is there to keep the wood dry and resist leaks.



Nick
Oh yeah ice and water barrier is a definite. They are gonna be redoing the roof, ridge vent, drip edge and the fascia that the insurance contractor effed up. Gonna have them put leaf guards on the gutters too.

I can put shingles down but I can't it them fast or nicely. I'm happy to let someone else take this one.
 
All the stuff that needs to be removed to remove the transmission




To get to this



And do this




After that is gone we can replace the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate along with the rear main seal which needs to be 3mm below the lip but it's done and the transmission is back in along with the exhaust. That was a pain as one side had only one bolt on a three bolt flange and all the nuts twisted the studs off which then required the old splined studs to be pressed out and required new stainless bolts and copper nuts to re-install. Tomorrow we finish up the rest of the ancillary items and call the swap done. Then on to the ignition switch problems......
 
Solved why my Ranger was throwing trouble codes for the EVAP system today. Found that the front body mounts on the bed are rusted away, which caused the bed to sag and slice the top of the gas tank! Not sure what to do next. Minimum the bed has to come off and the plastic gas tank replaced just not sure if its worth it. Damn road salt.
 
Solved why my Ranger was throwing trouble codes for the EVAP system today. Found that the front body mounts on the bed are rusted away, which caused the bed to sag and slice the top of the gas tank! Not sure what to do next. Minimum the bed has to come off and the plastic gas tank replaced just not sure if its worth it. Damn road salt.

How much JB Weld do you think it would take?
 
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Solved why my Ranger was throwing trouble codes for the EVAP system today. Found that the front body mounts on the bed are rusted away, which caused the bed to sag and slice the top of the gas tank! Not sure what to do next. Minimum the bed has to come off and the plastic gas tank replaced just not sure if its worth it. Damn road salt.
Do you have inspections? And, being a ramger, I'd presume you don't load a whole lot of weight in the bed?

There's plenty of redneck fixes to that situation coming from a former Salt belt denizen to extend the life of it as a people mover...

A) I've seen drilled hockey pucks in place of body mounts able to rest above the former body mount hole after you grind out the edges to stop the rot from continuing.

B) I've seen PT wood used to create an artificial sill between the bedroom and frame, with new bolt holes drilled through bed floor and frame rail to attach bed to frame and give firm support.

Gas tank would need swapping, but, neither of those 'fixes' require removing the bed. Just a pair of tow straps looped to a ceiling rafter and cranked to get 2 inches or so clearance to works beneath between rails and bed.

State might not like it, or, may not care/notice. But with price of vehicles these days.... eh, a little extra life out of a DD beater may be worth it?

(As you can tell, I was a poor hillbilly in my younger years. And stories to go with it.)
 
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