What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]

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I had a 307 in the back of my shop so stripped it down loaded it up off to the car wash line at the car wash was 10 deep sh*t
Did it with garden hose and oven cleaner in backyard
Cleaned the rest of the parts with gas
New cam bearings polish crankshafts journals new rod and main bearings along with new piston rings new camshaft lifters timing chain oil pump all Rockauto stuff it all worked on my 40 over 350 rering job
Ran the engine on my stand then installed it in my 1986 F150
 

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Roof replacement is scheduled for next week. Was going to go with Owens Corning shingles but after talking with the roofer we going with CertainTeed. A little more money but a better product and better warranty.
 
Yeah from what I've gathered its best to add grout as a backer between the tub and the tile and then add silicone over it.

I'm definitely a novice when it comes to tile work. The saving grace is the 2 months I spent installing hotel pools in High School and my wife watching YouTube 🙂

I'm not pro either, but any grout between tub and tile isn't going to last very long. You'll be amazed at how much the tub moves and flexes. Before you do anything there, measure the gap between the tub and the tile with the tub completely empty (i.e you not standing in it). Then fill the tub with water and measure again. You could see a pretty big difference in the gap. Grout is not going to be flexible. I've always ready to just use caulking.
 
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So the diesel mechanic sent me some photos of the daily driver. Someone was in it before and it's a mess! Stripped holes and broken bolts bolt's drilled crooked and sent home dugga-dugga! He's replacing the mid plate the trans mount and some other stuff. I'm not looking forward to seeing the bill but I want my truck back. Here's some pictures he sent me. By the way it's a 2011 Duramax lml
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What manner of cheesy 80s goodness is that?
I always liked the optional digital dashes in the late 1st gen s10s. Unfortunately they got glitch with age and often needed rebuilds.

My first choice is the 82-85 round style, but that digital one is hands down an improvement over the awful analog 86-93 type.
 
Mentioned elsewhere finally dropping the LS6 manifold on my 5.3 but just now did a comparison of the injector sockets on the -6 piece and the original truck item and while they are both two pin, the pins seem to be offset to one side in the -6. Is this some kind of optical illusion because it is not then I either have to change out the sockets to get that offset, or pull the injectors off the old manifold and plug them in place instead.



Nick
 
Well, I have a new non-G project to deal with. With the nicer weather, I moved the '10 Camaro to do a little garage sweepdown and there on the floor, in the oil pan area, driver side, was a few drips of Dexcool.....fuuggg! Put the car on the ramps and look under the car where the leak appears to be coming from... the friggin' oil cooler (actually heater) is leaking. And it appears it's seeping a bit of oil too.

It's not an unheard of issue. Even though they've been around for quite some time, they're a hit and miss issue. Problem is, the list price for a new complete unit is over $400. The exchanger (#9) by itself is over $300. Yeah, right. I can get some new donut gaskets for it (#22), but it requires disassembly and even then won't guarantee it'll seal back up.

Here's a better idea. Do the oil "heater" delete. A ton of LS engined cars came without oil coolers. If I were auto crossing it or doing something with heavy, constant loading, I could see replacing it with a bigger air oil cooler rerouted to the front, but since the car's only got 13K miles on it, there's no need for it. I'm just going to remove it, put it in a box and if the car ever gets sold, the new owner can deal with it.

They sell an oil cooler delete "package" which consists of a new upper rad hose, a brass plug for the side of the block and the oil passage block off cover/bolts/gasket, but I can get all that junk through GM for less.

I've already put in orders for new rad hoses and heater hoses, as I might as well change all that crap out while the coolant's out of it. Got a couple of gallons of real deal GM Dexcool concentrate coming from GMpartsdirect.com (cheaper than buying it off the shelf around here). Just have to mix it 50/50 myself. They have the 50/50 mix already but you only save $4 per gallon for half as much coolant. Math says use the big measuring cup and mix it myself with deionized water (GM says clean, drinkable water- fugg that) and get the second gallon of 50/50 for $4.

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