reason number #69 i will never "buy" a vehicle i have to make payments on. not knocking those who do, but thats not for me.At least your not making payments on a truck you can't drive.
reason number #69 i will never "buy" a vehicle i have to make payments on. not knocking those who do, but thats not for me.At least your not making payments on a truck you can't drive.
Making payments is fine if you get near 0% apr, on something new off the lot, and get it at least 10% below sticker.reason number #69 i will never "buy" a vehicle i have to make payments on. not knocking those who do, but thats not for me.
So the extra shifter brings in an overdrive that is part of the torque tube? The 39 trans will bolt up to an A belhousing? Is your engine stock? My car might have seen 65 going down a hill but it would have been scary. LOL. With the original motor it ran nice 45-50. I drove it to work 30 miles from home years ago on a highway and it could maintain 60 mph. At 62 the vented rad cap would send up a geyser and I would have to turn on the wipers. Needs a new rad. Your overdrive sounds ideal.'30 Model. Cabriolets were the upper end of the 'open' cars w/windows that roll-up & the actual folding -top. The top can go from up/down @ any point on the road w/o having to remove it to store somewhere ( vs. Roadsters).
As far as gearing, we put an OD in it last year when going through the mechanicals to get it back on the road. So it's a .74 final drive gear when the OD is engaged. The combo yielded ~1700rpm @ 40mph; ~2000rpm @ 65. The 'new' trans from a '39/V8 era flathead has taller gearing vs. the pre-V8 transmissions. First gear in these things is super-low so the '39's gearing helps make 1st gear a little friendlier & the gear splits aren't as wide ('30 = 3.12, 1.85, 1:1 vs. the '39 = 2.82, 1.60, 1:1). The best part is they're synchronized. The double/triple clutching gets old quickly until you are fully used to it's quirkiness which is hard to do in a car that's only driven occasionally.
The different 16" wheel/tire combo is actually 1" shorter in the rear vs. the 19's & should yield ~1752 @ 40mph; ~2100 @ 65mph. Very 4-banger friendly rpm's. They don't like to lug but high rpm beats the center main Babbitt bearing set-up of original motors. Trans gearing would look like 2.82, 2.08, 1,60, 1.18, 1.00, .74 if all gears were split. Those options help on hilly stuff but it will most likely be like having a 4spd.
I like that head! My buddy has a Winfield sittin' on a coffee table waiting for it's turn. He won it @ one of the Model-A Club events & plans to use it on a new Burtz 5-main short-block.So the extra shifter brings in an overdrive that is part of the torque tube? The 39 trans will bolt up to an A belhousing? Is your engine stock? My car might have seen 65 going down a hill but it would have been scary. LOL. With the original motor it ran nice 45-50. I drove it to work 30 miles from home years ago on a highway and it could maintain 60 mph. At 62 the vented rad cap would send up a geyser and I would have to turn on the wipers. Needs a new rad. Your overdrive sounds ideal.
Years ago my buddy at https://aroundtheblockengines.ca/index.html built me a B engine. Plates welded into the crank like a "C" and all balanced. 10 lbs cut out of the flywheel. The cam is a regrind from a fellow named Jim Brierly in California. Intake is an Ansen that I bought from J. C. Whitney for about $25 in the '70's. It's hooked to a 32 trans with some synchro in it. I overheated the engine and cracked the head. He recently got it welded up for me and resurfaced. Looking forward to getting it back on the engine one of these days. I had to put an electric fuel pump on the car to fill the downdraft carb setup. Last time I had it out, the carb kept flooding. It would be nice to find a B fuel pump. Or I may install a pressure regulator, or new needle and seat I suppose.
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Pete
Up here in the Northeast if you want a truck with good frame rails your looking at a minimum 20-25k and anything with under 100k Miles it over 40k right now and that doesn't grow on trees so I financed a 2011 with very little rot solid frame 4 doors and a diesel. Unfortunately it has 240k and someone fixed at it before mereason number #69 i will never "buy" a vehicle i have to make payments on. not knocking those who do, but thats not for me.
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