What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]

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At least your not making payments on a truck you can't drive.
reason number #69 i will never "buy" a vehicle i have to make payments on. not knocking those who do, but thats not for me.
 
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Decided to pay a little more hammer love to the Indian seat pan and proceeded to chase and straighten out or recurve some of the edges where they had rippled.

Actually found a video that showed how to pop the injector rail assembly free of the intake; and it worked!!
 
reason number #69 i will never "buy" a vehicle i have to make payments on. not knocking those who do, but thats not for me.
Making payments is fine if you get near 0% apr, on something new off the lot, and get it at least 10% below sticker.

I've done it like that and, by the time you figure even a low inflation market has new cars cost about 10% more in actual cost by 60 month payoff, and that your last payment represents 10% less buying power than the first, your residual value around year 4 or 5 puts you miles ahead when accounting for no paid repairs etc etc etc.

Problems happen when you take a loan to buy a 5-10yr old vehicle with 70k or 130k miles or some such. Then it hurts when it breaks as it invariably will.

Then again, depending on the type of vehicle needed, not everyone can get away with paying 25k for a sports car daily and needs a truck that, if new, goes 70k or better. Then it doesn't work so hot
 
Grrrr. Yanked the oil cooler/heater/whatever off the Camaro. Replaced the hoses to the radiator and the thermostat as a might as well.

Put the little oil cooler delete cover on with the new gasket and torqued to spec (Two 10mm head cap screws). Changed oil...cranked it up after adding some coolant...checked for leaks. SOB!!

Leak at the oil cooler delete cover. Pretty significant. The little GM gasket is paper thin. It's like a super thin film type gasket. No sealant recommended. Fugg fugg fugg.

So today it's going to be go to Advance Auto, pick up a FelPro gasket for it and it should fix that issue. It's a tad thicker. So that should cure that problem. Good thing is, no more coolant leak!
 
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'30 Model. Cabriolets were the upper end of the 'open' cars w/windows that roll-up & the actual folding -top. The top can go from up/down @ any point on the road w/o having to remove it to store somewhere ( vs. Roadsters).

As far as gearing, we put an OD in it last year when going through the mechanicals to get it back on the road. So it's a .74 final drive gear when the OD is engaged. The combo yielded ~1700rpm @ 40mph; ~2000rpm @ 65. The 'new' trans from a '39/V8 era flathead has taller gearing vs. the pre-V8 transmissions. First gear in these things is super-low so the '39's gearing helps make 1st gear a little friendlier & the gear splits aren't as wide ('30 = 3.12, 1.85, 1:1 vs. the '39 = 2.82, 1.60, 1:1). The best part is they're synchronized. The double/triple clutching gets old quickly until you are fully used to it's quirkiness which is hard to do in a car that's only driven occasionally.

The different 16" wheel/tire combo is actually 1" shorter in the rear vs. the 19's & should yield ~1752 @ 40mph; ~2100 @ 65mph. Very 4-banger friendly rpm's. They don't like to lug but high rpm beats the center main Babbitt bearing set-up of original motors. Trans gearing would look like 2.82, 2.08, 1,60, 1.18, 1.00, .74 if all gears were split. Those options help on hilly stuff but it will most likely be like having a 4spd.
So the extra shifter brings in an overdrive that is part of the torque tube? The 39 trans will bolt up to an A belhousing? Is your engine stock? My car might have seen 65 going down a hill but it would have been scary. LOL. With the original motor it ran nice 45-50. I drove it to work 30 miles from home years ago on a highway and it could maintain 60 mph. At 62 the vented rad cap would send up a geyser and I would have to turn on the wipers. Needs a new rad. Your overdrive sounds ideal.
Years ago my buddy at https://aroundtheblockengines.ca/index.html built me a B engine. Plates welded into the crank like a "C" and all balanced. 10 lbs cut out of the flywheel. The cam is a regrind from a fellow named Jim Brierly in California. Intake is an Ansen that I bought from J. C. Whitney for about $25 in the '70's. It's hooked to a 32 trans with some synchro in it. I overheated the engine and cracked the head. He recently got it welded up for me and resurfaced. Looking forward to getting it back on the engine one of these days. I had to put an electric fuel pump on the car to fill the downdraft carb setup. Last time I had it out, the carb kept flooding. It would be nice to find a B fuel pump. Or I may install a pressure regulator, or new needle and seat I suppose.
20200529_141717.jpg

Pete
 
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So the extra shifter brings in an overdrive that is part of the torque tube? The 39 trans will bolt up to an A belhousing? Is your engine stock? My car might have seen 65 going down a hill but it would have been scary. LOL. With the original motor it ran nice 45-50. I drove it to work 30 miles from home years ago on a highway and it could maintain 60 mph. At 62 the vented rad cap would send up a geyser and I would have to turn on the wipers. Needs a new rad. Your overdrive sounds ideal.
Years ago my buddy at https://aroundtheblockengines.ca/index.html built me a B engine. Plates welded into the crank like a "C" and all balanced. 10 lbs cut out of the flywheel. The cam is a regrind from a fellow named Jim Brierly in California. Intake is an Ansen that I bought from J. C. Whitney for about $25 in the '70's. It's hooked to a 32 trans with some synchro in it. I overheated the engine and cracked the head. He recently got it welded up for me and resurfaced. Looking forward to getting it back on the engine one of these days. I had to put an electric fuel pump on the car to fill the downdraft carb setup. Last time I had it out, the carb kept flooding. It would be nice to find a B fuel pump. Or I may install a pressure regulator, or new needle and seat I suppose.
View attachment 195593
Pete
I like that head! My buddy has a Winfield sittin' on a coffee table waiting for it's turn. He won it @ one of the Model-A Club events & plans to use it on a new Burtz 5-main short-block.

My motor is stock 'A' block/crank w/Babbitt set-up that still has some shim stock in place @ the journals. When I bought the car in '20, a 'B' head & water pump were included in the purchase. When we went through the motor to determine what kind of shape it was in it turned out better than expected. There was a knock that turned out to just be a bad cam/timing gear so we did a re-fresh (cleaned/knocked the carbon off the pistons, replaced the rings, ball-honed the cylinders, hand polished the crank journals, added that 'B' head, sourced a cam ground to 'B' specs, fresh valvetrain w/lapped valves, new timing gear, + lightened flywheel w/V8 spec clutch).

The '39 trans to Model-A swap requires an adapter kit. it's a common upgrade if you're willing to pony up the bucks (similar to the over-drive). And.... Yes, the OD is mounted within the torque-tube. That's part of the kit as well & is made by Mitchell Overdrives. I was looking into their synchronized transmission as well but the price was tough to justify (we picked-up the OD unit 2nd hand but never used). The 3-used OE synchronized V8 transmissions w/rebuild parts & adapter kit were about 1/3 to < 1/2 the cost of a new synchronized unit from Mitchell. Even Mr. Mitchell said my logic was wise as the V8 3spd versions are plenty strong for a 4-banger. I just had to purchase a second (different) adapter for the V8 transmission.
 

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reason number #69 i will never "buy" a vehicle i have to make payments on. not knocking those who do, but thats not for me.
Up here in the Northeast if you want a truck with good frame rails your looking at a minimum 20-25k and anything with under 100k Miles it over 40k right now and that doesn't grow on trees so I financed a 2011 with very little rot solid frame 4 doors and a diesel. Unfortunately it has 240k and someone fixed at it before me
 
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Y pipe fabrication for the Rapture150 is going as planned
 

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Dropped the Indian seat pan off at the Paint Supply Shop so they can scan the color and see if they can determine a match for it. Pulled a list of codes for the paint off the net but they don't seem to catalogued as available up here.

Pulled the injectors out of the LS2 truck manifold and parked the intake shell. Dug into the box for the LS2 engine management wiring harness and made it sure it was wired to use the truck injectors and it came to me already removed and ready to go. They matched so compared the LS2 injector to the LS6 injector and totally different socket for the harness. Dephi/Aptiv does not offer the sockets as a part number. Thinking here and now that the next step will be to lift the LS6 fuel rails and pull the -6 injectors and see if the -2 will plug in and mate to the fuel rail correctly.

Dug out the step ladder and added some deck screws to the cross bar that spans my work booth for the door shell. A little more thought and added a second brace closer to the joint between the two panels to brace that some more as well.. #8 green coated deck screws are the bomb!

Had the float pivot pins and main needle show up for a CV-40 build that's on the bench but still waiting on the vacuum slide assembly and the Idle screw kit and another new float. They're in the mail.

Finally found 1/4" drive speed handles for my Craftsman and S-K tool sets; they be on the way too, also.

Swept the floor and kitty shittied the gas that leaked out of the old fuel rail and decorated my shop floor. Kitty Sh*tty?? Oh, yeah, Floor Dry without that cute scented smell that gets added to suppress the smell of ammonia from the cat piss. You actually can use normal Kitty Litter but it makes the joint stink worse than old burnt rear end oil.



Nick



Nick
 
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