YVW. After that, you can wash out the gear oil skid mark on your driveway...But thanks for reminding me the pinion seal on the Bonnewagon is leaking and needs changing. I have been ignoring that job for two years now.
What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]
- Thread starter g0thiac
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Soooo...I try the new spider gears out and I get the same damn click-click-click that I had at the beginning. But instead of setting the stupid GYP on fire I remember that I thought it was a U-joint all along. Not the BANG sound but the click. And I used to have a scratching sound that came and went for years. I had watched two YouTube videos where they mounted GO PRO cameras under the GYP and recorded the driveshaft sound. The first was a scratching sound. The second was the clicking sound. I knew it! But when I took the driveshaft down it seemed OK. It had grease, no rust, nothing binding. But with 180k I said F- it and I took it to my driveshaft guy and he also said it didn't look bad. But I had him put new SPICER U-joints in with grease zerks. I put the shaft on, greased everything, checked the transfer case, added oil, greased the front shaft slip joint, everything under there got looked at. I took it around the block and NO NOISE!!! So a perfectly good looking shaft was bad after all. Just my luck to have two headaches at once- U-joints and spider gears. Now I will drive slowly to break the gears in like the YUKON instructions said to do.
Mine had a squeak squeak squeak when I'd take off last I wasted a u joint. Not yet had a click click click.
Attended evening service today, made the brief trip in my S-10, no problems. Came out lit 'er off, depressed the brake to put it into drive, and felt the brake pedal slowly head for the floor! I really wanted to go and grab some take out but the absence of appreciable braking power of any kind booted me in the head to the effect of, Get your dumbass home before you have to use the car ahead of you as a stopping assistant!
Made it home without further complications, popped the hood and checked the master cylinder; Dry as a bone. Looked at the driveway and noticed a thin line of drops that seem to end behind the driver's front wheel. Thinking that I lost a hose to the front driver's caliper here.
So the plan now is to wait until Monday, phone Napa to see if they have both front calipers and the matching hoses and installation kits. If they have to order some of it, very possible, then I get the stuff Tuesday which works because that is also the day I pick up my Vay-Kay rental.
For those who might be wondering why I am thinking about sub contracting this job, well the job of yanking and stuffing the calipers is the easy part. They have already been off ; did that a few years ago when I did the rotors and pads and at the time I replaced the o-rings and sleeves in the caliper ears and smeared them with a little never seize along the way. (Yeah,yeah, qwitcher b*ch*ing. Anyone who has had to wrestle with those little sleeves when they are frozen in place to the o-rings from corrosion and electrolysis will appreciate that little bit of sliver goo that makes the job easier the next time; And It Will Come)
Bleeding the M*****-F*****'s is the nuisance because this truck has ABS and there is a honking big sensor suite that governs the brakes in the event of a slip and slide, and all the brake lines go through it. That makes the task a two man job and me here be all by meself. My go to helper suffered a stroke last year in the fall and has no strength in the one leg although he is doing better. Bums him out because he has an old 31 A P/u that is his pride and joy and he can't drive it on account of it has a non syncro t-box and arnie version clutch.
So tomorrow will be an investigation day; pull the wheel and find out for sure what died. DOUBLE BOTHER.
Nick
Made it home without further complications, popped the hood and checked the master cylinder; Dry as a bone. Looked at the driveway and noticed a thin line of drops that seem to end behind the driver's front wheel. Thinking that I lost a hose to the front driver's caliper here.
So the plan now is to wait until Monday, phone Napa to see if they have both front calipers and the matching hoses and installation kits. If they have to order some of it, very possible, then I get the stuff Tuesday which works because that is also the day I pick up my Vay-Kay rental.
For those who might be wondering why I am thinking about sub contracting this job, well the job of yanking and stuffing the calipers is the easy part. They have already been off ; did that a few years ago when I did the rotors and pads and at the time I replaced the o-rings and sleeves in the caliper ears and smeared them with a little never seize along the way. (Yeah,yeah, qwitcher b*ch*ing. Anyone who has had to wrestle with those little sleeves when they are frozen in place to the o-rings from corrosion and electrolysis will appreciate that little bit of sliver goo that makes the job easier the next time; And It Will Come)
Bleeding the M*****-F*****'s is the nuisance because this truck has ABS and there is a honking big sensor suite that governs the brakes in the event of a slip and slide, and all the brake lines go through it. That makes the task a two man job and me here be all by meself. My go to helper suffered a stroke last year in the fall and has no strength in the one leg although he is doing better. Bums him out because he has an old 31 A P/u that is his pride and joy and he can't drive it on account of it has a non syncro t-box and arnie version clutch.
So tomorrow will be an investigation day; pull the wheel and find out for sure what died. DOUBLE BOTHER.
Nick
Easy peasy. Just bleed brakes like normal, find a dirt road/activate ABS, rebleed normally, good to go. Or do like I did on my 1500 and delete the abs garbage. On the dually (in sig) I replaced both wheel cylinders, bled as normal, and that was the end of it.
You aint' joking man! Dynamite won't get those buggers off. A schmear of that and it's only impossible to loosen them . Without it it's really hard.
Dusted off my '64 project so it could get some love on its day (6/4).
Thurs/Friday I made CAD templates for the 4qty short bed-floor pieces (wood) used @ each side. With them in place, I played around w/the last mod to the 'sub-frames' used to locate & mount the bed. I had previously laid out some masking tape where I was thinking of putting in some diagonal links to help make the sub-frames more rigid (one of the top weaknesses of a wood floor truck is the bed always creaking/flexing). The sub-frames will make the bed like it has a steel floor. The diagonal links will just help keep things extra sturdy.
The links are now all cut & fit for the tailgate end sub-frame. I rough cut the front end pieces but still need to individually fit each to its specific spot within the sub-frame.
I'll try & get them welded in tomorrow in between Model-A stuff going on.
Thurs/Friday I made CAD templates for the 4qty short bed-floor pieces (wood) used @ each side. With them in place, I played around w/the last mod to the 'sub-frames' used to locate & mount the bed. I had previously laid out some masking tape where I was thinking of putting in some diagonal links to help make the sub-frames more rigid (one of the top weaknesses of a wood floor truck is the bed always creaking/flexing). The sub-frames will make the bed like it has a steel floor. The diagonal links will just help keep things extra sturdy.
The links are now all cut & fit for the tailgate end sub-frame. I rough cut the front end pieces but still need to individually fit each to its specific spot within the sub-frame.
I'll try & get them welded in tomorrow in between Model-A stuff going on.
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Deviated from my list of projects (it was probably the coffee) to put the Powerball and elbow grease to these wheels.
The Autosol and Mothers mag polish combo did a pretty good job.
I am probably going to mount these on Natasha's Z28 for now. She turned her nose up hard at first (because they looked like sh*t), now that they glimmer her mood has softened.
But, the real reason I did this is because I am seriously contemplating getting the 15x12 versions for the Monte (with a 30" tall slick) and running these instead of the 17" GTAs.
The Autosol and Mothers mag polish combo did a pretty good job.
I am probably going to mount these on Natasha's Z28 for now. She turned her nose up hard at first (because they looked like sh*t), now that they glimmer her mood has softened.
But, the real reason I did this is because I am seriously contemplating getting the 15x12 versions for the Monte (with a 30" tall slick) and running these instead of the 17" GTAs.
Parked the door rehab for the day and went nuts on my Non G-Body-G-Body, aka my G-10 to get it ready to run as my daily driver in place of my S-10. I had already put it up on my stacks of lifting flats so i had just the right amount of room to play inch worm and slither around underneath it.
Dropped out the oil pan drain plug and used the drain time profitably by slipping a floor jack under the S-10 and pulling the front wheel. Turned out that it wasn't the hose that died, it was the steel delivery line, which opened up a nasty can of worms. This is one of the lines that exits the ABS distribution block. i have no plans to attempt to edit out the ABS bloxk, that would entail a major amount of line work just to accomplish the mechanical aspect and doing so would likely leave me with a catastrophic brake system failure notice permanently sitting on the dash.
To further complicate the matter, the fittings on the block accept a 14mm wrench, meaning they are metric. Beyond that, the line itself is 6mm in OD. Oddly enough that actually translates in white standard english as being 1/4 inch. So what I need to acquire is around 4 feet of 1/4 inch steel or copper/nickel brake line, the matching brake hose, the copper crush washers for the bolt, possibly another banjo bolt, and the two metric brake nuts, both of which seem to be a 14mm hex by an 11 mm or so body diameter, by whatever thread count they are made with.
I did crosscheck this by removing a fitting from a spare ABS unit and comparing it physically and by caliper measurement to what was in the P/U; and got a match What it may come down to is buying a bulk roll of 1/4", and a short length of 6mm metric with the right nuts on it and
harvest the nuts for the longer line which i will have to make. The factory one, of course, has a spiral shape which I may elect to ignore. Think that design is all about vibration damping or something equally techno-nerdy so not really up to imitate it. Just getting the diameter of the spiral to turn consistently and stay decent is a monumental PITA. Did that for my S/S lines in the Monte, Quoth the Raven, "Nevermore"!
On a brighter note I did discover why the Van was barking for most of the summer. Turned out that one pipe to exhaust manifold flange had had its nuts back off.. (Nothing worse than Loose NUTS, y'know.) Kind off worried me when I found this out but all the nuts could be run down and retightened again without issue. Not sure why that connection failed to seat.. I did have to pull both pipes to gain some wiggle room for the T-mission swap that occurred last year so it is possible that the flange on the pipe failed to mate squarely with the shoulder on the manifold and I got a false impression that all was well. (REally, really, kind of hard for your flanges to mate correctly when Your Nuts are loose..).
Finished the oil change, changed the filter visited the various grease nipples to lube them up (Okay, so what's with the Loose Nuts and greasy Nipples all of a sudden here.) and did a few other pre-fire chores as well.
Finally, dug the key out of hibernation, stuck it in the Key switch and then turned off the fuel pump. Toggled the pre-oiler to pre-lube the engine for first start and cranked it over for 10 seconds, stopped, waiting for about a minute or so to let the starter cover, did it again, and waited again, then toggled the fuel pump switch back on line, let it run by itself to prime the fuel system, shut it off and restarted it to re-prime, and then fired the mill on the key. AND VOILA!! WE HAVE MUSIC, ONCE MORE AND AGAIN.
With the engine running the pre-oiler gets toggled off and the oil from it returns to the reservoir; it has its own pressure gauge so I know when the oil has come back like it ought to.
After that I let the mill warm up to operating temps; I like at least 100 F. on the gauge before i go to move the beast. At that point the oil has started to absorb some heat and is moving around like it ought to. Once there I shut it down, let it go into heat soak, waited for while to let things cool off and drain down and checked the stick, dead nuts on full.... (So my nuts have gone from loose to dead now?? Oi.)
All of which means that I have a substitute up and ready to plug in, in place of my crippled S-10. The rotation was not supposed to occur until July but needs must. it still may not occur until I get back from holidays. I've about had enough of being on the receiving end of stress shock after stress shock and it is time to go find a warm dry clime and rest my bones for a few days.
Nick
Dropped out the oil pan drain plug and used the drain time profitably by slipping a floor jack under the S-10 and pulling the front wheel. Turned out that it wasn't the hose that died, it was the steel delivery line, which opened up a nasty can of worms. This is one of the lines that exits the ABS distribution block. i have no plans to attempt to edit out the ABS bloxk, that would entail a major amount of line work just to accomplish the mechanical aspect and doing so would likely leave me with a catastrophic brake system failure notice permanently sitting on the dash.
To further complicate the matter, the fittings on the block accept a 14mm wrench, meaning they are metric. Beyond that, the line itself is 6mm in OD. Oddly enough that actually translates in white standard english as being 1/4 inch. So what I need to acquire is around 4 feet of 1/4 inch steel or copper/nickel brake line, the matching brake hose, the copper crush washers for the bolt, possibly another banjo bolt, and the two metric brake nuts, both of which seem to be a 14mm hex by an 11 mm or so body diameter, by whatever thread count they are made with.
I did crosscheck this by removing a fitting from a spare ABS unit and comparing it physically and by caliper measurement to what was in the P/U; and got a match What it may come down to is buying a bulk roll of 1/4", and a short length of 6mm metric with the right nuts on it and
harvest the nuts for the longer line which i will have to make. The factory one, of course, has a spiral shape which I may elect to ignore. Think that design is all about vibration damping or something equally techno-nerdy so not really up to imitate it. Just getting the diameter of the spiral to turn consistently and stay decent is a monumental PITA. Did that for my S/S lines in the Monte, Quoth the Raven, "Nevermore"!
On a brighter note I did discover why the Van was barking for most of the summer. Turned out that one pipe to exhaust manifold flange had had its nuts back off.. (Nothing worse than Loose NUTS, y'know.) Kind off worried me when I found this out but all the nuts could be run down and retightened again without issue. Not sure why that connection failed to seat.. I did have to pull both pipes to gain some wiggle room for the T-mission swap that occurred last year so it is possible that the flange on the pipe failed to mate squarely with the shoulder on the manifold and I got a false impression that all was well. (REally, really, kind of hard for your flanges to mate correctly when Your Nuts are loose..).
Finished the oil change, changed the filter visited the various grease nipples to lube them up (Okay, so what's with the Loose Nuts and greasy Nipples all of a sudden here.) and did a few other pre-fire chores as well.
Finally, dug the key out of hibernation, stuck it in the Key switch and then turned off the fuel pump. Toggled the pre-oiler to pre-lube the engine for first start and cranked it over for 10 seconds, stopped, waiting for about a minute or so to let the starter cover, did it again, and waited again, then toggled the fuel pump switch back on line, let it run by itself to prime the fuel system, shut it off and restarted it to re-prime, and then fired the mill on the key. AND VOILA!! WE HAVE MUSIC, ONCE MORE AND AGAIN.
With the engine running the pre-oiler gets toggled off and the oil from it returns to the reservoir; it has its own pressure gauge so I know when the oil has come back like it ought to.
After that I let the mill warm up to operating temps; I like at least 100 F. on the gauge before i go to move the beast. At that point the oil has started to absorb some heat and is moving around like it ought to. Once there I shut it down, let it go into heat soak, waited for while to let things cool off and drain down and checked the stick, dead nuts on full.... (So my nuts have gone from loose to dead now?? Oi.)
All of which means that I have a substitute up and ready to plug in, in place of my crippled S-10. The rotation was not supposed to occur until July but needs must. it still may not occur until I get back from holidays. I've about had enough of being on the receiving end of stress shock after stress shock and it is time to go find a warm dry clime and rest my bones for a few days.
Nick
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