I never had luck with Dorman pin bushings either. The pins were fine, the bushings wore fast. I do remember the doors on my GMT400 Silverado being a complete PITA to align.
What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2023]
- Thread starter Wraith
- Start date
I ordered a set for the Blazer that are supposed to be really nice from Facebook, been pushing for them to get the G body ones done
While I am waiting on the specialty tool to remove the pinion gear from the differential, I changed the upper and lower ball joints on the right side and rebuilt the CV axle that had a ripped boot.
The left side could probably use ball joints as well, but they are not one angry stare away from falling apart like the right side was. Somehow the CV axle was in good shape in spite of the boot being trashed and feels like new once the new boot was installed.
The left side could probably use ball joints as well, but they are not one angry stare away from falling apart like the right side was. Somehow the CV axle was in good shape in spite of the boot being trashed and feels like new once the new boot was installed.
won an online auction for an "owner retiring and selling everything". cabinets and countertop business, a lot of the stuff went for cheap, even the quartz counter tops. got 5 full 5'x10' slabs of matching quartz for $720 + tax. apparently the regular price is about $2000-3000 per slab, so I paid less than 10%! 
all I have to do now is get someone to install
all I have to do now is get someone to install
My pinion nut removal tool arrived today, so I finally got the differential broken the rest of the way down. I ended up having to use the big rattle gun for 2 solid minutes to get that thing backed out. Those aluminum threads were tore up pretty badly by the time I was finished.
I cup wheeled the threads and not most of the damaged stuff more or less okay. The steel nut, unsurprisingly, was in perfect condition.
I then had to weld in a bolt to try to extract the small pinion bearing that was beat so badly that I would swear it was originally a bushing.
The bolt, combined with a GM body bushing washer worked perfectly to pull the bearing out, at least until the bearing broke in the middle.
Since I didn't have the forethought to buy a second bolt, I had to grind the bearing and the weld off of the bolt, then try again. Once I finally got it all out, I pounded the big bearing off of the pinion, cleaned the water that was still trapped between the big bearing and the pinion, and wire wheeled and sanded the rather beat up end that interfaces the small bearing.
I got it fairly smooth but since it's a needle bearing, if it fails again that will be the likely failure point. I pounded the pinion assembly into place, then liberally greased the threads on that pinion nut, and screwed the nut back down. Lucky it went down all the way with only a ratchet, but I wouldn't recommend pulling it apart again. Ever.
Once the wife goes to bed, I will silicone the halves together and reinstall it back in the bike.
I cup wheeled the threads and not most of the damaged stuff more or less okay. The steel nut, unsurprisingly, was in perfect condition.
I then had to weld in a bolt to try to extract the small pinion bearing that was beat so badly that I would swear it was originally a bushing.
The bolt, combined with a GM body bushing washer worked perfectly to pull the bearing out, at least until the bearing broke in the middle.
Since I didn't have the forethought to buy a second bolt, I had to grind the bearing and the weld off of the bolt, then try again. Once I finally got it all out, I pounded the big bearing off of the pinion, cleaned the water that was still trapped between the big bearing and the pinion, and wire wheeled and sanded the rather beat up end that interfaces the small bearing.
I got it fairly smooth but since it's a needle bearing, if it fails again that will be the likely failure point. I pounded the pinion assembly into place, then liberally greased the threads on that pinion nut, and screwed the nut back down. Lucky it went down all the way with only a ratchet, but I wouldn't recommend pulling it apart again. Ever.
Once the wife goes to bed, I will silicone the halves together and reinstall it back in the bike.
Got the case together and thrown back in the bike. I started the bike up and let it idle along in gear, and everything seemed to be happy. I still need to get the wheel bearings delivered and installed before I can take it for a test ride, but I am thoroughly happy with the progress so far.
More on that harness exercise, I was actually able to find some in line fuse holders that had been built with 14 ga leads. They are socketed for 20A blade fuses. That makes my fabrication a Little simpler. What I have done is to pull the power in lead on the relay socket and replace it with one made from one of the fuse holder units. The spade female ends come out of the socket fairly easily with the right tool and the replacement ends are available from my local indie electronics supply shop. That lead has also been extended to reach a firewall mounted auxiliary stud block. A ring terminal on the lead picks up the stud and another lead goes from there all the away back to the + terminal on the battery.
I also have another variant on that theme except that the fused power lead goes directly back to the + terminal stud on the battery. Not too keen on that version as it adds another plus lead to that stud and could make working on the battery a little more awkward and clumsy, not to mention having wires floating around where I really don't want them to be. The first option moves the spider down stream and makes the install look cleaner and neater.
For the relay mount I happened to notice a preplaced hole in the battery tray mou8nting bracket that would drop the relay low and out of the high traffic zone for things coming and going. A self drilling/tapping screw should be more than enough to bolt things down. It also lines up with the harness laced through the firewall that feeds the AFR gauge so bonus points for that.
Nick
I also have another variant on that theme except that the fused power lead goes directly back to the + terminal stud on the battery. Not too keen on that version as it adds another plus lead to that stud and could make working on the battery a little more awkward and clumsy, not to mention having wires floating around where I really don't want them to be. The first option moves the spider down stream and makes the install look cleaner and neater.
For the relay mount I happened to notice a preplaced hole in the battery tray mou8nting bracket that would drop the relay low and out of the high traffic zone for things coming and going. A self drilling/tapping screw should be more than enough to bolt things down. It also lines up with the harness laced through the firewall that feeds the AFR gauge so bonus points for that.
Nick
Wow, seen better looking metal in pictures of ships that sank 70 years ago. Should salvage some of that debris and frame it for to be hung on the wall of rembrance.
Nick
So last weekend I fixed a truck that needed brakes, an oil change, and an air filter. He had a wheel cylinder let go and by the time I got the thing the rear channel was bone dry.
So the truck got shoes, hardware, and wheel cylinders but the brakes absolutely kicked my @$s. I'm no stranger to drum brakes, and admittedly these have fewer parts than most, but man oh man did they give me fits! I got it all back together, took a brief test rip, and was very disappointed with the brakes. When I set them up, I misperceived some resistance to rotation and backed them off too far. But it was late and the truck stopped so I returned the truck and refused payment until this weekend. I wanted it back not only to get those brakes turned back up, but also because of what I saw in the u bolts. The Dorman bolts are apparently backordered so I had a local place bend me up a set for a few bucks more. Bear in mind this 1997 C1500 Silverado is CLEAN. It is properly maintained, regularly washed, and we don't live in the rust belt. My trucks aren't like this either.
Check out all the garbage that came off the axle housing and bottom plate.
Nuckin futz I tells ya. Well these u bolts will outlast the owner, dude is getting up there but he has his health. I'm glad I've been the guy to keep this thing ticking for the past couple years.
So the truck got shoes, hardware, and wheel cylinders but the brakes absolutely kicked my @$s. I'm no stranger to drum brakes, and admittedly these have fewer parts than most, but man oh man did they give me fits! I got it all back together, took a brief test rip, and was very disappointed with the brakes. When I set them up, I misperceived some resistance to rotation and backed them off too far. But it was late and the truck stopped so I returned the truck and refused payment until this weekend. I wanted it back not only to get those brakes turned back up, but also because of what I saw in the u bolts. The Dorman bolts are apparently backordered so I had a local place bend me up a set for a few bucks more. Bear in mind this 1997 C1500 Silverado is CLEAN. It is properly maintained, regularly washed, and we don't live in the rust belt. My trucks aren't like this either.
Check out all the garbage that came off the axle housing and bottom plate.
Nuckin futz I tells ya. Well these u bolts will outlast the owner, dude is getting up there but he has his health. I'm glad I've been the guy to keep this thing ticking for the past couple years.
I guess my house is now my latest non g body project.
The free dryer we got crapped out and has no heat. I have no idea what I'm doing but this thing seems to have no continuity at all. My cheap *ss meter display doesn't change from the static not touching anything setting when testing for continuity. Means bad yes?
The free dryer we got crapped out and has no heat. I have no idea what I'm doing but this thing seems to have no continuity at all. My cheap *ss meter display doesn't change from the static not touching anything setting when testing for continuity. Means bad yes?
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