What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2023]

ELCAM

Royal Smart Person
Jun 19, 2021
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Looks like a thermal switch when the dryer gets above a certain temperature it will shut off the heating element. Should conduct at room temperature, sounds like you are on the right path.
 

86LK

Royal Smart Person
Jul 23, 2018
1,884
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I guess my house is now my latest non g body project.
The free dryer we got crapped out and has no heat. I have no idea what I'm doing but this thing seems to have no continuity at all. My cheap *ss meter display doesn't change from the static not touching anything setting when testing for continuity. Means bad yes?
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what's the make/model?
 

MrSony

Geezer
Nov 15, 2014
6,732
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Des Moines, Iowa
Nov 4, 2012
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Grandpa Buick sprung a leak yesterday while running errands. I noticed a burning oil smell and pulled over to take a look. Steady dripping from underneath. Nothing looked fatal but I drove it right home, pulled it in the garage and threw some cardboard under it. Appears to be a power steering line, I'm guessing a return.
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While we were putting up Christmas decorations, I grabbed a box out of the attic and in it was the owner's manual and hood ornament to my grandfather's old Lesabre. I forgot I had kept them when he got rid of it. It was a cool nostalgic find.
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CopperNick

Comic Book Super Hero
Supporting Member
Feb 20, 2018
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Canada
Spent the afternoon wandering back and forth between the basement and the shop and ended up with the power side of the relay socket completed as well as getting the relay itself mounted on the lower mounting rib for the battery tray. Wonder of wonders, the hole in the rib turned out to be 1/4" so a normal NA standard capscrew and nut did the deed just fine. No metrification to whamboozle up the process.

The switched side of the relay will be next. The ground for that is simple and nearby and I may piggyback the ground from the gauge to the relay ground to possibly simplify things that way. For switched power, thinking about taking a tap from the main fuse block. The installation instructions specify that acuating power to the relay should be from a switched source such as the key but I am not a big fan of splicing into the key harnes at the best of times.

Did also retrieve that M/C cab corner and attempted to set it up in the portable vise but the ratchet fingers are not indexing correctly again so it might be time to extract that part and do some more welding on it to bring them up higher. They worked for the summer but I did anticpate this recurring so./............................


nick
 
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scoti

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Sep 5, 2019
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Texas
Sent the drivetrain swap project home finally.

This Sedan came to us w/a Ford v6/4spd that was a solid runner. The owner wanted to swap the v6 out for a Pinto 4cyl/C3 auto combo to make the car friendlier to younger generations of potential Model-A club members. We were provided w/a 'running/proven' drivetrain & the 'kit bracketry' to facilitate the swap. Said bracketry came from another running/driving Sedan that had this kit combo swapped. My buddy talked w/the owner & we figured ~6wks working part-time nights....... Reality? The car left 56 weeks later.

What was supposed to be a fairly straight-forward drivetrain swap via a 'kit', was a brain bruising mess. The drivetrain placement is based off of a standard Model-A frame rail crossmember that also locates the center-pivot/joint of the rear radius rods (which dictates rear-end location). Using said x-member dictates the placement of the motor mount towers on the main rails & the trans mount off of the x-member.

The driveshaft & torque-tube would not work based off of where the trans tailshaft landed under the body. Reference calls to the guy that provided this kit to the customer basically had him saying we had things jacked up because "This combo was pulled from a running/driving vehicle. It's a simple plug & play labor install that requires some holes to be drilled". Well.... the rear end w/its transverse mounted leaf spring is also located off of a factory x-member so the locations are/were set by Henry back in 1928. This should have been a 'yank the old stuff out, lower & locate the new stuff, drill holes for the mounts (including the pedal bracket included w/the kit), section & tweak the exhaust + re-plumb/re-wire as needed'.

What started as a kit swap turned into a sh*t-show. We wanted to throw the towel in more than once after fighting stuff but after cooling off for a few days we continued pushing forward & correcting the problems.

'Jethro' is now solidly together & a runner. There are still outstanding items that need attention (diff parts for the speedo connection & mechanical e-brake; re-work of the alt + a/c brackets so the hood can go on) but it runs & drives like it did w/the previous drivetrain that was well sorted. It even sounds like an OG flat head 4-banger.....
 

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Nov 4, 2012
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Fixed the leak on the Lacrosse today. Had to clean a ton of caked on grease and grime to actually figure what it was. Used up two of the big pro cans of brake clean. Turned out to be the oil pressure idiot light switch. Easy fix.
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Also added a strut brace that I got at the junkyard a while back. I think it came from a Monte Carlo or maybe an Impala? Just had to drill for the studs. I don't expect any real difference in handling but it isn't gonna hurt anything. Afterward I gave it a good cleaning and got the first round of winter grime off of it.
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