What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2023]

[CopperNick]

Thing to appreciate with the VW rubber is that it isn't designed with sidewall tread that will flex under cornering to the same degree that a dedicated bike tire will. Car tires are stiffer in the side wall department because all of their traction comes from the center or main tread pattern.

The other thing is heat. Bike tires like the Conti's and Michelin's and even the Avon's come as application specific and can be soft or hard in terms of the rubber compound. Soft compound tires handle well and get warm quickly, but have a short working life because of that. The harder compounds are meant more for road or touring tires where, once they get warm, they handle better over longer distances. Trade off is that is cold weather or over short distances, the harder compound won't absorb enough heat to get the rubber to become surface compliant, meaning if you have to hammer the whoa pedal all of sudden due to some moron in a Prius proving they are as stupid as they seem, the tire might skid or twitch instead of offering a linear and consistent response.

And yeah, I do own and ride Motorcycles. Thing with me is that they are as old as I am. My personal preference is for Avon Venoms but they aren't allowed for sale over here anymore. Some NHTS-wit playing silly buggers with the spec sheet. My Harley is waiting on a new set of Conti's but it is a "while I'm there" project as the rear wheel is getting swapped out in favor of its uglier brother. The old one went to the Chromer's 40 years ago and the Club did too good a job on the pre-chrome polishing and buffing on the bead faces; they leak over time. So since my knees aren't up to the homage drill like they used to be, the wheel is getting shelved.,




Nick

 

[Wageslave]

Thing to appreciate with the VW rubber is that it isn't designed with sidewall tread that will flex under cornering to the same degree that a dedicated bike tire will. Car tires are stiffer in the side wall department because all of their traction comes from the center or main tread pattern.

The other thing is heat. Bike tires like the Conti's and Michelin's and even the Avon's come as application specific and can be soft or hard in terms of the rubber compound. Soft compound tires handle well and get warm quickly, but have a short working life because of that. The harder compounds are meant more for road or touring tires where, once they get warm, they handle better over longer distances. Trade off is that is cold weather or over short distances, the harder compound won't absorb enough heat to get the rubber to become surface compliant, meaning if you have to hammer the whoa pedal all of sudden due to some moron in a Prius proving they are as stupid as they seem, the tire might skid or twitch instead of offering a linear and consistent response.

And yeah, I do own and ride Motorcycles. Thing with me is that they are as old as I am. My personal preference is for Avon Venoms but they aren't allowed for sale over here anymore. Some NHTS-wit playing silly buggers with the spec sheet. My Harley is waiting on a new set of Conti's but it is a "while I'm there" project as the rear wheel is getting swapped out in favor of its uglier brother. The old one went to the Chromer's 40 years ago and the Club did too good a job on the pre-chrome polishing and buffing on the bead faces; they leak over time. So since my knees aren't up to the homage drill like they used to be, the wheel is getting shelved.,




Nick

Oh I thought hard about the disadvantages before I decided to go with the VW tire. The first thousand miles or so it felt quite weird going into corners as you had to fight it a little to break over in a curve. It did scrub the outside edges down a little so it isn't really noticable anymore.

My typical ride is long mostly straight roads with the wife on the back and plenty of junk in the side boxes, so the need for higher load capacity and treadwear won out over superior cornering abilities.

The panic braking is kind of a wash since what you lose in compound softness you gain back in tread width. Plus with the mediocre linked brakes they came with in '84, I have yet to lock that rear wheel up on dry pavement.

 

[Ugly1]

Thing to appreciate with the VW rubber is that it isn't designed with sidewall tread that will flex under cornering to the same degree that a dedicated bike tire will. Car tires are stiffer in the side wall department because all of their traction comes from the center or main tread pattern.

The other thing is heat. Bike tires like the Conti's and Michelin's and even the Avon's come as application specific and can be soft or hard in terms of the rubber compound. Soft compound tires handle well and get warm quickly, but have a short working life because of that. The harder compounds are meant more for road or touring tires where, once they get warm, they handle better over longer distances. Trade off is that is cold weather or over short distances, the harder compound won't absorb enough heat to get the rubber to become surface compliant, meaning if you have to hammer the whoa pedal all of sudden due to some moron in a Prius proving they are as stupid as they seem, the tire might skid or twitch instead of offering a linear and consistent response.

And yeah, I do own and ride Motorcycles. Thing with me is that they are as old as I am. My personal preference is for Avon Venoms but they aren't allowed for sale over here anymore. Some NHTS-wit playing silly buggers with the spec sheet. My Harley is waiting on a new set of Conti's but it is a "while I'm there" project as the rear wheel is getting swapped out in favor of its uglier brother. The old one went to the Chromer's 40 years ago and the Club did too good a job on the pre-chrome polishing and buffing on the bead faces; they leak over time. So since my knees aren't up to the homage drill like they used to be, the wheel is getting shelved.,




Nick

Did use both Conti’s, Dunlop’s( factory) , and Avon’s on mine between the Dyna and the FLHT. If I remember correctly the Conti’s where my preferred

 

[mclellan83]

Got the old core support out and the new tested fitted

 

[81cutlass]

All these shop building threads have me dreaming.

How do you attach a new garage to an existing 2 car attached house with a hip roof?

I'd like 10ft ceiling for a lift and ideally an attic so I can store stuff....

 

[86LK]

All these shop building threads have me dreaming.

How do you attach a new garage to an existing 2 car attached house with a hip roof?

I'd like 10ft ceiling for a lift and ideally an attic so I can store stuff....

View attachment 218270
View attachment 218271

have you gone and looked at Garagejournal.com?
as for your house, not sure I understood the question. do you already have an attached garage? my house is a 2-story with hip roof and attached 1-story garage.

 

[81cutlass]

have you gone and looked at Garagejournal.com?
as for your house, not sure I understood the question. do you already have an attached garage? my house is a 2-story with hip roof and attached 1-story garage.

View attachment 218274

View attachment 218275

I haven't checked out garage journal in a while. I should.

I've got a 1 floor house with the attached 2 stall to the left. It's 24ft wide, 22ft deep with the hip roof. I don't have room on the side of the house with neighbors so I have to go back. It's just the question of how do i add a garage to the back and have the roof lines and wall heights line up.

I have a 9ft ceiling in the existing garage and think put a pass through to an addition on the back yard side of the garage if I take out the man door and a window, but getting the roof and wall height right is the challenge.

 

[Ugly1]

I haven't checked out garage journal in a while. I should.

I've got a 1 floor house with the attached 2 stall to the left. It's 24ft wide, 22ft deep with the hip roof. I don't have room on the side of the house with neighbors so I have to go back. It's just the question of how do i add a garage to the back and have the roof lines and wall heights line up.

I have a 9ft ceiling in the existing garage and think put a pass through to an addition on the back yard side of the garage if I take out the man door and a window, but getting the roof and wall height right is the challenge.

Out with the old,put up all new? Expensive but able to match

 

[ck80]

Refinished the faces on just over 1/3 of my square body factory rims... well, the 2wds anyways.

Good enough for daily drivers, not concourse quality but I wasn't going for that. Just presentable fodder for the swap meet. If they sell, great. If not, I needed to do it anyways and on the rack they'll go.

This weekend I need to polish the beauty rings, center caps, and refinish the hex head cap screws so they can be put together. Again, not to perfect, won't be replacing any faded emblem faces, but just nice driver quality.

Did a set of 15x7s, a set of 15x8s, and a staggered set of 15x7 fronts, 15x8 rears. There's also a set of wheels on a set of junk tires I'm going to do up, honestly not sure what's on them as they're wearing 31 10.50s which I've seen people use on both. The other sets I'll keep for now as spares. Who needs 8 sets of spare steel wheels beyond what's on the trucks anyways? I think 4 extra sets should be enough, and, is still probably too many.

 

[CopperNick]

So the original plan was to finish the oil charge on the compressor's crankcase and to that end I had paid a visit to the service shop and picked up a gallon of 30W Premium mineral oil. The old oil had been left to drain out overnight as it was about as stiff as molasses and slower than an 16 year old trying to avoid school. About to add some layers and head out to the back when I get the sounds of diesel coming from the front street. 1/2 hr later I am in the front driveway with a scoop and moving out what the plow dropped off; a wet mushy heavy pile of white crap, one half scoop at a time because this stuff is cement snow, aka heart attack snow and mostly water held together by obstinancy.

Get that done and out into the shop. Dump the oil bucket that had been left to catch the drain down; about full and more in it that I had thought would have been the case. Rethread the cap onto the drain pipe and set the petcock back to closed.

Normally the refill would have been an hour of funnel and slow pour work but this time I decided to score a small siphon pump from the local big box car parts store and use that. Took about 8 repetitions and maybe 1/2 hour but got the oil in and minimized the mess and slop in the process. Fired up the compressor and let it build up some pressure.

Went ahead and pulled the air filters and blew them clean, then re-installed them. Now for the why of this.

When I put my Non-G-body --GBody away for the winter, the relief valve on the Canton Pre-oiler had started to hiccup and spit oil out of the reservoir. During the winter I had Canton send me some replacement valves so's I could do a valve swap. Thing here is, to do the swap you have to drain the air pressure side of the reservoir to take the pressure off the oil side. Once you do the swap, the tank has to be repressurized as fast as possible to equalize the two chambers. If not, well I have what is left of the original tank sitting over in the corner; they do blow up quite suddenly and thoroughly; drove the one end cap right off its threads and down into the inner wheel well cavity. Good thing it happened in the front driveway or I would have lost the whole oil pan into the bargain. Nothing like having to deal with 5 quarts of oil that just got vomited all over an asphalt drive to ruin a week.

So got that done, Lifted the main door to check on the snow/ice pack and removed some of the immediate crud away from the door sill. Closed the door and discovered that the upper weather seall was still not sitting tight against the upper door frame so now i have to pay yet another visit to Home Deppott to see if they have a long flap door seal that I can PK screw to the upper leading edge of the door. Bother. Fortunately the internal and ambient temps right now are just about equal so the furnace isn't likely to fire off.


Nick