What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2023]

Scoti,



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So these are images of what Snyders's calls their "Master Cylinder Battery Box". In the 2016 catalogue, the part number is A2001 and it is found on page A-101. The master cylinder shown almost looks like a 55 Chev item except that it has no tabs or ears for the mounting bolts/nuts that would attach it to the firewall.

They also offer a 6V AGM glass battery that I wish Bob would have discovered and made use of as the stock lead-acid units are heavy and awkward and no fun to wrestle down into the oriignal battery tray.



Nick
Yes sir.... Familiar w/that set-up.

The set-up we're using will be slightly different. It is separate from the batt box & bolts into the x-member directly behind where the box mounts. I used mostly scrap material I keep on hand to make the bulk of mine (mounting structure & pivot bar/arm) & had to source some specific stuff for the actual pivot portion (tubing/Oilite bushings/greaseable bolt)). All in for materials, we're <$200 w/the parts for 3x set-ups. The 2nd set-up is going under the 2dr Sedan my buddy is building for his sister & her family (functional beater; Pinto 2.3/3spd) & one for future use. I have to cut & fab everything but the smaller investment yielded more return for those beyond me.

My buddy is working w/a guy here in TX that's 'retiring' & selling out his brake parts. He apparently has 3-dozen HYD brake backing plate set-ups & required parts. Making our set-up was sort-of in tandem w/this potential buy-out. Hydraulic brake kits on the market are stupid expensive ($3600 for a 4whl hyd drum brake kit that requires that batt-box set-up as well 👀 ). Our thought was to see the feasibility of building kits that included the pivot assembly for less than that amount.

The Cabriolet is our test car. Not sure yet, but once more variables are in place we can determine which style might be the more marketable approach (marketable = user friendly for me/us).

It's a similar deal to the 'go-to' rear spring option. I was prepared to shell out the $600. Jr. said, "lets try to build our own 1st & see if it works out". We now can build a rear drop spring set-up on the cheap using just Model-A parts vs the old school Model-T + Model-A combo (which is what the aftermarket set-up is based on). Same logic on the Posies front spring. The Posies spring choice is a well priced option but we wanted to be able to compare ride quality vs the DIY used parts approach.
 
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Any one on the board have access to a torque value chart for 3/8ths NC Grade 8 Zinc Dichromate plated capscrews? Just dropped a set of them into a rotor and went with 50 ft-lbs using a torque wrench. The threads had been treated with Permatex activator and the capscrew threads got a small drop of Loctite Blue. A google search says I am way over torqued but nothing broke or stripped out so the current plan is to leave well enough alone unless I really have to back them off and go lower; in which case I will need the butane torch to heat them so the lock-tite will let go and my impact gun to rev them out. The other thing is that neither the activator or the blue are thought of as being lubricants so the bolt did go in "dry", for values of the term.



Nick
 
Wet is 35 lb-ft and dry is 45 lb-ft. I dont think the world will come to an end over 5 lb-ft.
 
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Nope, nor do I. I had the first stage at 30 ft-lbs and went for it. Thing for me is that during the Th400R4 swap I did a while ago, I snapped a 3/8ths Grade 8 off while bolting down the bellhousing. Got lucky and was able to fish the stump out of the block but it makes me leary about leaning on them like I just did.

Thanks,


Nick
 
We did enter & will be somewhere in the mix.
Heading down Friday AM & going back to Dallas on Sunday.
 
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Spent the day doing some cosmetics on the Grandpa Buick. Before she passed away, my grandmother added some racing stripes to the right rear door and quarter panel coming around turn three of the driveway. That was at least a couple years ago.
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Anyway I came across a LaCrosse in the same color at a junkyard nearby and it had a very nice RR door on it for $100 complete with hinges and all the guts. For the price I couldn't pass it up.
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Swapped it on today. Color is off a hair but I expected that and it looks worse on camera than in person. I had to swap door panels as the new one was gray and the Grandpa Buick has tan interior. The quarter is still fugked up but it's not nearly as noticeable. I'll touch up the scrapes with a fine brush and call it good.
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I decided to take the pinstripe off since it was missing from three panels and I can't find a match for it. Looks fine without IMO.
 
Well, it turned out that all my worries about over torquing those capscrews was for naught.. Did a test fit/comparison of the existing wheel versus what I have built to replace it and the new caps sit too proud of the rotor and will crash against the caliper boomerang.

On the bright side I was able to remove those offending capscrews with a minor amount of effort which eased my mind on that score. I was further elated to discover that the resident rotor bolts from the old wheel came out just a easily. If I can't score new ones, then these will get some wire wheel love and a fresh coat of loctite blue and a new home in the new wheel. I still have to decide on which rotor to use. The resident one is dished and the new one is flat. The flat one shifts the rotor face away from the boomerang a few extra thou but might bury the caliper deeper into the rim and possibly cause interference between the spokes and the caliper brake fiiting. The old one would eliminate that but bring the rotor close to the boomerang which is the why of those special rotor bolts in the first place. Faugh.


Nick
 
Struck sunflower gold and finally found a drag omega worth buying. Not yet, but maybe in a few months if he still has it.

73 omega hatch +1
Original paint AZ car super solid +1
Already has a 8.50 cage +1
Proven high 9's +1
Subframe and Calvert mono leafs with caltracks and a minitub +1
D60 spool 4.10 +1
Missing some interior parts -1


He built it as a retro style drag car and theres obviously stuff id change but it's the best roller option I've seen.

It's not outrageous priced, for what it is it's fair, but I've gotta hold for now with a baby coming and want the dust to settle.

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