What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2023]

[gdouaire]

The Aurora has been keeping me busy.

I used Eastwood copper paint, single coat urethane, good stuff. We'll see how well it lasts over time!

I am still having issues painting vertical panels - I am too scared (it seems) to put lots of paint to make it shiny and glossy - fearing paint runs etc. Other take away - being lazy on the preparation will bite you back! I knew that already, just seems like the glossy finish will amplify x1000 any defect in the primer 🙂

Anyhow. Satisfied this is done, considering this a dry run for my upcoming home made paint job for the Cutlass.

 

[CopperNick]

The closer you are, the faster you have to move the gun.

Will your urethane let you apply some coats of clear over it that you could sand out and buff?



Nick

 

[ck80]

Wallyworld had a deal today...

$1, yes, $1 for a 6 pk:

So I bought what they had, 3 boxes. Much better deal than the MSRP of $45/6pk.

We'll see how they perform. I dug out my old HS Compound to teach the wife how to shoot with. Going to stick a foam-core target in front of a 10-bale pile of wheat straw from the feed store to teach her using my old arrows if these seem decent.

 

[gdouaire]

The closer you are, the faster you have to move the gun.

Will your urethane let you apply some coats of clear over it that you could sand out and buff?



Nick

Will definitely get a clear coat when I do the Cutlass and do as you say - but I'm done with the Aurora, enough time spent on it! 🙂

 

[scoti]

Been doing some updates & maint stuff on the Cabriolet....

This time last year, it was hastily lowered for the annual 'Round-Up' show in Austin TX. I've been accumulating parts for the proper (functional) way to get things closer to the pavement since then. All new front end wear related items have been purchased as well as a 4" dropped axle & Posies front Reversed-Eye drop leaf.

There's a 'go-to' aftermarket rear spring set-up that's commonly used but we opted to try building our own rear dropped leaf set-up (reversing the eye on the main leaf & re-working the pack for the desired drop) vs spending the $600 aftermarket price-tag. We came within .500" of the 'free-height' when compared to the aftermarket option dimensions. Plus, we also obtained bracketry for installing later model standard shocks vs. the Model-A friction shock set-up. The rear stuff was knocked-out over the weekend.

The front parts are mostly in-house but I've opted to leave things as-is for this years Round-Up because I don't feel it's worth changing some things up front twice. We're dropping the front properly AND removing the OE mechanical drum brakes for a later hydraulic drum set-up. I'm still fabbing stuff for the hydraulic brake set-up & each set-up (mechanical vs hydraulic) requires a slightly different approach for the steering. I don't like the idea of a last-minute thrash just for a show when it comes to Safety items.

Just dropping the rear correctly made a difference in ride quality already. Once the front is done, it will be so much better since it has zero effective travel clearance & non functional friction shocks. It might be an additional inch lower as well but w/3+ inches of travel clearance. Rear is about 6-7" of drop. which is about maxxed w/o modding the rear leaf mounting x-member.

 

[CopperNick]

Worked a lot on my buddies Model A pickup while he was still able to drive it and one thing that he had done was to convert it to juice. If memory serves the A spindles would take the early juice backing plate and shoe assembly without any relief work to make it fit.

We were on the hunt for a set of front brakes from a 46-48 Ford/Merc sedan because they are self adjusting and needed to yank the spindles as well due to incompatibility problems between early and late. I think we got as far as completing the brake pick, both front and rear, and getting it all home when he started having mobility and balance issues. As of now, he is a pedestrian and not likely to ever get his driver's license back again.

One thing that he did do was to purchase the master cylinder mounting bracket that mounts to the battery tray locate under the front floor boards; can't recall if the tray and bracket were all one assembly or if the bracket could be had separately. I do have the catalogue binned somewhere and could look it up. The major difference between the home made one that used to be there and the store bought item was structural rigidity. Store bought was way stiffer and wouldn't flex or deflect when you hit the pedal.

At one point he had swapped out the 31 wheels for a set of 35's but for reasons of originality elected to return to the 31's. Only difference in it for me was that with the A's there was enough frame height that you could slide under the vehicle without having to employ a floor jack, just drop a piece of clean cardboard and good to go.



Nick

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

Window motor issue, seems to be working now..🤔

 

[CopperNick]

Scoti,

So these are images of what Snyders's calls their "Master Cylinder Battery Box". In the 2016 catalogue, the part number is A2001 and it is found on page A-101. The master cylinder shown almost looks like a 55 Chev item except that it has no tabs or ears for the mounting bolts/nuts that would attach it to the firewall.

They also offer a 6V AGM glass battery that I wish Bob would have discovered and made use of as the stock lead-acid units are heavy and awkward and no fun to wrestle down into the oriignal battery tray.



Nick

 

[86LK]

Been doing some updates & maint stuff on the Cabriolet....

This time last year, it was hastily lowered for the annual 'Round-Up' show in Austin TX. I've been accumulating parts for the proper (functional) way to get things closer to the pavement since then. All new front end wear related items have been purchased as well as a 4" dropped axle & Posies front Reversed-Eye drop leaf.

There's a 'go-to' aftermarket rear spring set-up that's commonly used but we opted to try building our own rear dropped leaf set-up (reversing the eye on the main leaf & re-working the pack for the desired drop) vs spending the $600 aftermarket price-tag. We came within .500" of the 'free-height' when compared to the aftermarket option dimensions. Plus, we also obtained bracketry for installing later model standard shocks vs. the Model-A friction shock set-up. The rear stuff was knocked-out over the weekend.

The front parts are mostly in-house but I've opted to leave things as-is for this years Round-Up because I don't feel it's worth changing some things up front twice. We're dropping the front properly AND removing the OE mechanical drum brakes for a later hydraulic drum set-up. I'm still fabbing stuff for the hydraulic brake set-up & each set-up (mechanical vs hydraulic) requires a slightly different approach for the steering. I don't like the idea of a last-minute thrash just for a show when it comes to Safety items.

Just dropping the rear correctly made a difference in ride quality already. Once the front is done, it will be so much better since it has zero effective travel clearance & non functional friction shocks. It might be an additional inch lower as well but w/3+ inches of travel clearance. Rear is about 6-7" of drop. which is about maxxed w/o modding the rear leaf mounting x-member.

are you going to RoundUp this year? I plan on hitting the meet/show on Friday

 

[scoti]

are you going to RoundUp this year? I plan on hitting the meet/show on Friday

Yes sir... we'll be there.