What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2023]

Broke my third Harbor Freight sawzall last week so decided to finally upgrade to a Milwaukee. When I got to Home Depot, I saw you could buy the sawzall alone for $140 or the 5.0ah battery and charger kit for $199 and get the tool free. I don't need another charger but I'll take it and I could definitely use the battery. Then when I went to check out, I saw they were offering a free Milwaukee work light if you signed up for a credit card. So I signed up. Pay off the card immediately, tear it up. Free light.

pagrunt UC645 Junkyards beware.
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Broke my third Harbor Freight sawzall last week so decided to finally upgrade to a Milwaukee. When I got to Home Depot, I saw you could buy the sawzall alone for $140 or the 5.0ah battery and charger kit for $199 and get the tool free. I don't need another charger but I'll take it and I could definitely use the battery. Then when I went to check out, I saw they were offering a free Milwaukee work light if you signed up for a credit card. So I signed up. Pay off the card immediately, tear it up. Free light.

pagrunt UC645 Junkyards beware.
View attachment 219670
You going to start walking around yards like this now?

1289DB01-A8E2-4CAE-9A61-11083F31FCE6.jpeg
 
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Broke my third Harbor Freight sawzall last week so decided to finally upgrade to a Milwaukee. When I got to Home Depot, I saw you could buy the sawzall alone for $140 or the 5.0ah battery and charger kit for $199 and get the tool free. I don't need another charger but I'll take it and I could definitely use the battery. Then when I went to check out, I saw they were offering a free Milwaukee work light if you signed up for a credit card. So I signed up. Pay off the card immediately, tear it up. Free light.

pagrunt UC645 Junkyards beware.
View attachment 219670

You going to start walking around yards like this now?

View attachment 219732
Now the unoffical offical GBF yard stalker. Now no steel carcass is safe.
 
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Reactions: 1 user
The GYP had an exhaust leak at the flange where the head pipe meets the crossover pipe. Normally I can just cut the rotten studs off and bolt it but the flanges were too rotted. Replacing the pipes was not an option because there are two CATs on the head pipe that are working fine. So I found some universal flanges at Advance but the bolt pattern was different. I had to grind down slots in the flanges for the bolts to pass. Much cussing later it all fit together. I used a stock GYP flange gasket schmeared with the high temp copper RTV so it should not leak. As you can see the clamping area is just gone. Good ol' NOPAR metal. It may be ugly but it is quiet and that is all I care about. IMG_0660.JPG
 
The GYP had an exhaust leak at the flange where the head pipe meets the crossover pipe. Normally I can just cut the rotten studs off and bolt it but the flanges were too rotted. Replacing the pipes was not an option because there are two CATs on the head pipe that are working fine. So I found some universal flanges at Advance but the bolt pattern was different. I had to grind down slots in the flanges for the bolts to pass. Much cussing later it all fit together. I used a stock GYP flange gasket schmeared with the high temp copper RTV so it should not leak. As you can see the clamping area is just gone. Good ol' NOPAR metal. It may be ugly but it is quiet and that is all I care about. View attachment 219848

Instead of that RTV (if it fails), you might just smear muffler cement on either side of that gasket. I recently had to replace a warped flange with 2 pipes that passed through it, I just lopped off and zapped some v bands in there. Your fix is definitely easier though.
 
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The CVPI has developed the dreaded cracked intake manifold. Its common for Ford 4.6s plastic intakes to crack at the aluminum coolant crossover joint. Its lasted 200k which isn't bad. Ford replacement intakes are recently discontinuted and the Dorman replacements are complete junk that rob 19 hp. Just gotra pay the high price for a NOS unit. The big three love to discontinue parts. The problem is gunk builds up in the O ring grooves around the ports in the plastic side, eventually cracking them.
 
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smear muffler cement
I used to use that exclusively. But after I started a thread about exhaust sealers I changed to the Permatex high heat copper stuff. The muffler cement works well but eventually gets wet and crumbles off. The last time I did some new pipes I used the copper stuff and it looks as good as the day I did it. We shall see. This PITA flange is known for leaking even under the best conditions. Replacing the two pipes,two CATs, and a resonator is not cost effective.
 
The CVPI has developed the dreaded cracked intake manifold. Its common for Ford 4.6s plastic intakes to crack at the aluminum coolant crossover joint. Its lasted 200k which isn't bad. Ford replacement intakes are recently discontinuted and the Dorman replacements are complete junk that rob 19 hp. Just gotra pay the high price for a NOS unit. The big three love to discontinue parts. The problem is gunk builds up in the O ring grooves around the ports in the plastic side, eventually cracking them.
I hear it in the wind, the LS fanbois.....swap it out for an LS, better engine, more power, you won't regret it....
 
Plus 100 on the Permatex High Heat Copper RTV. Like the ad says, "i use that s*** on everything!"......................well, almost everything, it doesn't go well with ribs.:ROFLMAO:


Nick
 
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