What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2023]

[joesregalproject]

This mirror is really pissing me off. It looked fine for a week or two. I noticed today the paint has a bunch of pock marks in it and some of it has crazed up and looks terrible. Guess I'll be painting it again. I have to think this was a bad can of paint. Never had this much of a problem painting anything.

 

[86LK]

This mirror is really pissing me off. It looked fine for a week or two. I noticed today the paint has a bunch of pock marks in it and some of it has crazed up and looks terrible. Guess I'll be painting it again. I have to think this was a bad can of paint. Never had this much of a problem painting anything.
View attachment 224611

is that what they call 'orange peel'?

 

[joesregalproject]

is that what they call 'orange peel'?

Sorta looks like it, but not exactly. Orange peel is a result of how the paint was applied, this texture seems to be the result of a reaction as it cured. In person it looks closer to crazing or wrinkling than orange peel. But yes, orange peel is what you have when you've got less than a perfectly flat "sheet of glass" finish in your paint.

 

[81cutlass]

A friend of mine's brother bought this boat accidentally on an auction and offered it to my buddy for what he had into it last August or so. He and I had talked about having a boat through HS and college and we dabbled in crappy watercraft though the years but never had anything useable.

This one seemed better than anything we worked on in the past so we split the cost + registration ($700). He stores, I fix. I've got a family get together at a lake this coming weekend so I have 6 days to get a boat running with last evidence that it ran in 2018. Great.

So its a 1993 Sunbird Corsair 185 with an OMC cobra I/O with the GM 3.0. Basically OMC went out of business in the late 90's and a Sunbird was OMC's (outboard marine corp) basic fiberglass boat.

The boat was advertised as 'fuel issue, won't start. My buddy was going to work on it but he's been busy, I had a kid, so it's been on the back burner. Finally have motivation to get to it.

Towed it the 2hrs from my buddy's place to my house. Got to work.

• The starting issue was because the throttle control wasn't fully in neutral and loose starter solenoid connections. It drew high amps and blew the ignition fuse, new fuse and tightened the connections and it's good.
• The oil looks milky, did an oil change, hopefully not a cracked block or headgasket
• Engine runs actually pretty dang well, a quick shot of fuel from the accelerator pump and it pops right off, doesn't overheat
• The front engine mount bracket is rotten so I bought some new lag bolts and concrete anchors and blasted them into the spongey material and it seems to be OK-ish
• Tried the earmuff water hose thing and it just leaks everywhere, stuck the outdrive in a bucket of water, checked the impeller, looks good and pulls water
• Washed the grime off the interior/exterior, there is some heavy rot on the wood that holds the upholstery around the rear seats next to the dog house, I tossed that on the floor, i'll deal with that later
• Its running off a boat tank right now, the fuel tank in the hull doesn't smell like gas, it's clear, not dirty, but it's not gas! Shelving that for later

I think (fingers crossed) it's ready. Hopefully it floats.

Getting started

Outdrive priming

140hp of 3.0 fury

Interior cleaning done

Exterior cleaning done

Dad said I need to check the wheel bearings. Yup. drivers side seems OK. Passenger side was loosey. Checked them? Toast. New bearings installed

 

[mclellan83]

Took the car out a bunch over the weekend since the Monte is down and I haven't fixed the Elky yet

 

[ck80]

CK80, right now I wish I was living or passing through your town because I would be in that store faster than a dirty shirt can hit the laundry!! A bit lower down I've posted a pair of shots of that screw. FYI, it is not the same as a Large Cap HEI rotor screw.. Were that the case, I have a few candidates that I could vandalize for them. The big Q and sticking point is why GM elected to use Torx head screws??? The older ones were almost always Phillips and at least with them I had no problem in scrounging replacements. it is almost as if the factory is trying to make service work as hard as possible to force drivers into buying new as opposed to keeping and maintaining what they have. Gotta wonder.



CopperNick

So, dropped in.

They have..... lots of junk. Even wheel studs, nylon bushings, all kinds of obsolete junk.

Here's what I turned up. Based on your 8x32 in a 1/2" length, two choices:

If you wanted to rid yourself of torx head, there's a 8x32x1/2 in a traditional universal slotted head (both flat and phillips pattern):

If you prefer the torx/allen styled head, theres an 8x32x1/2 in that too, which, was in a tray marked stainless.

Either way, the length and thread/pitch are what you mentioned and asked about.

I just went ahead and bought 3 of each style because... altogether it was $1.08. No such thing as too much hardware lying around. Figured if either sounded good you could just run a fresh pair and have one or two spares. And if you want to hold out for something else, that's fine as well, I wouldnt mind. Just thought it'd get you running and on the road.

But I'll drop any or all these in the mail to you, just say the word and message me an address.

 

[Texas82GP]

So, dropped in.

View attachment 224648

They have..... lots of junk. Even wheel studs, nylon bushings, all kinds of obsolete junk.

Here's what I turned up. Based on your 8x32 in a 1/2" length, two choices:

If you wanted to rid yourself of torx head, there's a 8x32x1/2 in a traditional universal slotted head (both flat and phillips pattern):

View attachment 224650

If you prefer the torx/allen styled head, theres an 8x32x1/2 in that too, which, was in a tray marked stainless.

View attachment 224649

Either way, the length and thread/pitch are what you mentioned and asked about.

I just went ahead and bought 3 of each style because... altogether it was $1.08. No such thing as too much hardware lying around. Figured if either sounded good you could just run a fresh pair and have one or two spares. And if you want to hold out for something else, that's fine as well, I wouldnt mind. Just thought it'd get you running and on the road.

But I'll drop any or all these in the mail to you, just say the word and message me an address.

CopperNick, wouldn't it just be easier to buy a new distributor rotor since the screws are included? Am I missing something?

 

[ck80]

CopperNick, wouldn't it just be easier to buy a new distributor rotor since the screws are included? Am I missing something?
View attachment 224651

Possibly, if it wasn't chinesium and he didn't have weight times of expensive import duties/shipping.

As for me, I always like an excuse to drop into the feed store. I walk out with cool stuff I didn't know I needed.

 

[CopperNick]

And on that note, my yard re-opened today after its annual mass two week vacation for all staff and hands. First item of joy to behold was that my replacement quarter panel section came in.

Second item of value was a second hand distributor for an S-10 V-6 that I can use as a test bed for what screws go and which ones don't. Which leads me to don't, as in the screws I found in my bin that I thought might work, Didn't. Not so much wrong thread as too large in diameter. So if #8 is a no-fit then the next size is #6, which surprise comes with a 40 tpi thread count. So back to the thread gauge and surprise number two, it Likes that 40 count TPI on one of the rotor screws from the test bed timer, plus it also likes the same thread on my remaining new one. SO..............

My to do list now becomes, finding 6-4o t-15 torx head machine screws, AND, revisiting the distributor because, based on a test using a screw on the test dizzzie, it appears a small screw just might have an outboard chance of slipping under the rotor IF it is sitting in a certain specific position in its rotation. That in mind, I am going to look at it again JIC.



Nick

 

[CopperNick]

Guilty with explanation, Yur Honor. Stab is probably an imprecise term for the process of using a precision instrument such as a gasket scraper for the express purpose of determining residual strength in a component, to whit the bumper in question, that was already heavily compromised by rust and rust and still more rust. Having the blade of the scraper embed itself all the way to the handle merely confirmed what was immediately and physically visible.

Further to the current status of the bumper in the pictures, it is now an Ex-Bumper. To paraphrase a famous quote from Monty Python, "It has ceased to be. Subsequent to getting off work this pm I headed for the shop, got into full welding mode with apron and jacket, added mouse muffs and a face shield, booted up the compressor, and proceeded to finish off the existing wheel on my cut-off motor, plus another whole wheel, plus part of yet a third by way of cutting away a significant amount of the bumper's corpse. That got me access to the push pins that held the lower fascia in place so that it could be removed. All that taken care of, I applied another shot of Deep Creep to the shock mounts and left it to soak some more.

Before I proceed with more demolition on the bumper I should take a few pictures to show to the point to which I have gotten. Don't expect much. Most of what was still holding the bumer together was the paint and undercoat. To put a point on it, the rust had rust! And that rusty rust had tin worms that were suffering from terminal cancer.




Nick