What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2023]

Oct 25, 2019
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Colorado Springs, CO
I went to start my truck this morning to take it to work instead of driving my normal little car and it wouldn't start. Security system fully active so I'll have to figure that out. Maybe the little component in the column is dirty or the heat/humidity killed something..🙄

View attachment 226196

Kill it back with HPT.
 
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Oct 25, 2019
5,013
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Colorado Springs, CO
Yup and a killswitch wired in for added help.

I've yanked my PCM before if I wasn't feeling great about where I parked for the night. It'd take a special kind of thief to be able to have a 411 swap packed for such an occasion.
 

Built6spdMCSS

Geezer
Jun 15, 2012
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Florida Beach
Yea that's going next level..🤣

Got in and made changes.

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I've had this program since 2008 and have tuned many things with it, this is a tool that I absolutely will never get rid of because of situations like this. Beyond priceless. Truck is running I'll take it to work tomorrow.
 
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CopperNick

Comic Book Super Hero
Supporting Member
Feb 20, 2018
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So Sunday was supposed to be the money shot on my S-10 front bumper. Had already shot the base coat but had to go back and color sand because of too much time passing. Did that, and reshot the base using a fresh batch of paint. Shot went well until it went sideways on the past pass. Not orange peel or wrinkle but the paint definitely assumed a pattern that was not polite or pretty. Tried a clear top shot to see if the base would smooth out and lose the pattern but no joy.

Had a chat with the paint supplier and he rechecked the paint recipe for me and it matched what Jade had mixed for me over 4 years ago. So I elected to color sand the whole thing down to see how far the damage went. Got all the way through the clear, the base, the primer/sealer and into the primer filler and it was still there. Absolutely no plans to strip the whole bumper down to bare metal and do it over; UH-UH. NO WAY MEH.

So I took the sanding down as much as I dared and then washed the surface down with clean water and let it dry. Took a fresh tack rag to it and reshot a fresh layer of primer sealer and watched what I got. That shot looked okay so it got left to dry and I will pick up matters again tomorrow after work. Thinking that I will leave a little more flash time between the base and the clear to see if that helps. I will have to score more clear as I about used up what I had on the initial shot.

Only bonus here is that tomorrow is supposed to be in the middle 80's so good drying weather.


Nick
 
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MrSony

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Nov 15, 2014
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stopped being lazy and got back to work on the f250 floor pans.
having a girlfriend , i now realize i have to actually make my stuff accomadating to the opposite sex and/or passengers. Being blasted with dirt, mud, water, snow, etc while in the passenger seat isn't good.
 
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Built6spdMCSS

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Jun 15, 2012
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Florida Beach
So of course you get on the internet and you find literally three different things of how to reset that light, and all of them referencing the relearn procedure for VATS. I'm trying to shut that fault light off. Most likely the little component in the column. I'll have to put a resistor in the wires.

Screenshot_20230815-063617_Chrome.jpg


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Oct 25, 2019
5,013
7,863
113
Colorado Springs, CO
So of course you get on the internet and you find literally three different things of how to reset that light, and all of them referencing the relearn procedure for VATS. I'm trying to shut that fault light off. Most likely the little component in the column. I'll have to put a resistor in the wires.

View attachment 226276

View attachment 226277

View attachment 226278

Security light should go out once the BS is turned off in the PCM. If it still doesn't go out, but is also incapable of rendering the truck inop, just yank the bulb. I think you'd need to be talking to the BCM at that point.
 

Built6spdMCSS

Geezer
Jun 15, 2012
5,839
9,778
113
Florida Beach
Security light should go out once the BS is turned off in the PCM. If it still doesn't go out, but is also incapable of rendering the truck inop, just yank the bulb. I think you'd need to be talking to the BCM at that point.
Digital cluster, pops up in the little "information window" so there's no yanking a bulb. Kicks on because there's an issue in the VATS circuit, this case here most likely that probe in the key switch. I'll have to pull it apart and see if I can figure out the resistance it's supposed to be so the BCM can read it and the light turns off.

Only way to get it.
 
Oct 25, 2019
5,013
7,863
113
Colorado Springs, CO
Digital cluster, pops up in the little "information window" so there's no yanking a bulb. Kicks on because there's an issue in the VATS circuit, this case here most likely that probe in the key switch. I'll have to pull it apart and see if I can figure out the resistance it's supposed to be so the BCM can read it and the light turns off.

Only way to get it.

Can you do a relearn? Or is that too new? When I did a power train swap on another truck it turns out the VATS module on the truck was not getting along with the PCM. I bypassed the whole column resistor and added one that was within the range of the system, and did a relearn which consisted of starting the truck and letting it die. Let it sit with the key on 10 minutes, fire it again let it die and sit, and on the 3rd or 4th round it learned the new value and stayed running. Saved me $120 on credits so I didn't have to tune it out and sold that pig for moneys.
 

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