What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2023]
- Thread starter Wraith
- Start date
Something about the fact that the syncro lives on the main shaft according to Modern Driveline. The gear ought to remain stationary, but I suppose the only thing holding it is the syncro itself so it must always have a bit of pressure on it?
weld in a base plate and then bolt the arm to it so you can remove as needed?The mounting plates were supposed to sit flat on the inner fenders of a hardtop car. Now, reversed, they are half way on the edge. So I will bend them so the other half can drop down against the sides. I figure that vertical part is even stronger than just sitting on a weak fender well. But the flat foot of the actual support tube is right at the edge, an inch or so inboard of the drop down. That should be much stronger than the wide wheel well. The side with the S hook will be bent over flat against the sides. I know from working on the top mechanism that I will need to be getting at those bolts and adjustment points again. If I weld that in I am major screwing myself.
Yes, that is the plan. I need structural enhancement, while still being able to service the car's interior. The top mechanism is particularly problematic and welding in the bars would be ultra stupid. This 3/16" diamond plate stuff is the answer, but I am stalled right now. My oxygen hose burst, one of my check valves is leaking, and I am doing a much needed upgrade before proceeding. While waiting on parts, I went fishing and that was rewarding. Now I'm waiting for the tropical storm to leave.
Got the trans back together and back into this thing.
What a chore! Solid engine mounts can eat a bowl of d!ck$. The engine didn't budge when I dropped the trans mount. That also meant I couldn't push the trans above plane to get some wiggle wiggle in the direction. Maybe I should have cracked the mounts loose? I ended up driving a couple of guide bolts and 2 fully threaded bolts backed with nuts. I ran the nuts down by hand, jerked the trans around, took up the slack in the nuts, and repeated until that sucker was basically bottomed out. About the only way I could pull it in while not fearing I'd forced the thing in. After that it was gravy. Thing is done and getting picked up tomorrow around lunch time. Now I have to beat his *ss this weekend. How many plug wires should I leave hooked up? Or maybe give him 5:1 AFR or pull 20 degrees of timing from his tune ? 🤣
What a chore! Solid engine mounts can eat a bowl of d!ck$. The engine didn't budge when I dropped the trans mount. That also meant I couldn't push the trans above plane to get some wiggle wiggle in the direction. Maybe I should have cracked the mounts loose? I ended up driving a couple of guide bolts and 2 fully threaded bolts backed with nuts. I ran the nuts down by hand, jerked the trans around, took up the slack in the nuts, and repeated until that sucker was basically bottomed out. About the only way I could pull it in while not fearing I'd forced the thing in. After that it was gravy. Thing is done and getting picked up tomorrow around lunch time. Now I have to beat his *ss this weekend. How many plug wires should I leave hooked up? Or maybe give him 5:1 AFR or pull 20 degrees of timing from his tune ? 🤣
changed out the fogged headlights on my sister in-laws rav4,changed the oil in my pickup and loaded some tools for work.
Too bad you can't bring them just that bit closer to each other so that they lay completely against that back panel and totally off the curve of the inner fender houses.The mounting plates were supposed to sit flat on the inner fenders of a hardtop car. Now, reversed, they are half way on the edge. So I will bend them so the other half can drop down against the sides. I figure that vertical part is even stronger than just sitting on a weak fender well. But the flat foot of the actual support tube is right at the edge, an inch or so inboard of the drop down. That should be much stronger than the wide wheel well. The side with the S hook will be bent over flat against the sides. I know from working on the top mechanism that I will need to be getting at those bolts and adjustment points again. If I weld that in I am major screwing myself.
Nick
Similar threads
