What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2023]

[Bonnewagon]

They are the same style but don't interchange.

Wow, that deflates everything I ever thought about that. I guess it is a good thing I never came across one to pirate from. I have an entire 1979 TA rear w/discs. I also have a 1979 disc rear that has been modified to fit a first gen Firebird. Plus various parts like mounting brackets and rotors. The calipers USED to be available with stainless steel sleeves from SSBC, in Clarence NY. Then it became 'send in yours and we will sleeve them', Now I don't think anyone does it anymore.

 

[86LK]

yep, got as far as I thought I would. crappy gaskets breaking off in pieces, one heater hose literally tore off the water pump. took me longer to scrape the gaskets off than pull the water pump

 

[MrSony]

Chopped off about 6" of the eye stalks the truck used to have. They sat way too high and too close together, looked like a snail. Looks a lot better imo. I really like that little harbor freight welder. I could pick the truck up with that angle iron. I usually use it for exhaust or thin sheet metal stuff so it's fun to crank it and go nuts on thicker stuff.

With the old setup the lights would bend the tabs and move around with every bump in the road, they're a lot sturdier now. Yes, I made sure to raise the lift arm all the way, has plenty of clearance at full height.
First pic is before, ones after are after.

 

[Texas82GP]

What exactly do those calipers bolt to? 99% of the rear disc kits using a caliper that looks remotely like that are garbage in the way that they mount. I suspect GM got it right, they did up front.

 

[joesregalproject]

Chopped off about 6" of the eye stalks the truck used to have. They sat way too high and too close together, looked like a snail. Looks a lot better imo. I really like that little harbor freight welder. I could pick the truck up with that angle iron. I usually use it for exhaust or thin sheet metal stuff so it's fun to crank it and go nuts on thicker stuff.

With the old setup the lights would bend the tabs and move around with every bump in the road, they're a lot sturdier now. Yes, I made sure to raise the lift arm all the way, has plenty of clearance at full height.
First pic is before, ones after are after.
View attachment 236259 View attachment 236260 View attachment 236261 View attachment 236262 View attachment 236263

Definitely looks better and probably less glare for oncoming traffic too. Nice.

 

[MrSony]

Definitely looks better and probably less glare for oncoming traffic too. Nice.

That was the goal. Although with how bright they are I do love when people bright me for no reason and I switch both plow and main lights to bright and make them see God.

 

[Bonnewagon]

View attachment 236280

Those are SERIOUS caliper mount brackets. Interestingly, they offer re-pops of the most hart-to-find calipers. The first gen 4 piston front ones are especially rare. But they all say that the retro-fit sets and the OEM stuff is not interchangeable. Firebird Central offers the first gen 4 piston front re-pops and they ARE stainless sleeved. But they don't fit the OEM brackets. Rock Auto has re-built 1979-81 rear calipers, and only around $50 plus a core charge.

 

[Hurricane77]

The 1978-81 Trans Am disc brakes used that for the parking brake too. That is why I am using one for my 1968 Firebird project. Our 2012 Jeep Liberty has that drum-in-the-hat set-up. Horrible. One side wore a trench so deep I had to cut the rotor off to service it. Is that a Jeep Cherokee XJ in your avatar? Then you know all about drum brake torture.

'93 Ford Explorer. It used to have rear drums, but swapped in a rear axle from a later model with rear discs.

 

[ck80]

Came back to GA after another round of docs poking proving and all the other BS.

Found a wet front yard as in a few inches of standing water against the house on one side.

Tried poking around with a flashlight to see if an upwelling area could be approximated, but, lungs weren't having it. Not just tree sperm trying to kill you season, but, this month my blood saturation c02 was at 120% of the high-limit - 36 mmol/L above a 23-29 as suggested range as normal low to high.

That's two months worth of climb. Had 9 months steady baseline data holding @ 27 to 26, wobbling, then 2 months now of increases of 4 and 5. To me, that spells trend. So, tomorrow we'll call a plumbing company to come figure out whats going on out there which also appears to have caused last month's water usage peaking to 45,000 gallons (luckily not city water, but, still a $200 cost for electric, pumps, etc.)

I'm sure it'll be at least $1000 fix between finding then repairing the leak.

 

[Supercharged111]

Got the face back on the plow truck the other day.

In all, it's gotten cleaned/painted/undercoated rot free inner fenders, outer fenders, cleaned/painted frame before installing plow mounts, modified (to work around plow mounts)/added plastic air deflector dealie behind radiator, cleaned/painted a bunch of accessory crap behind the grill, bigger trans cooler, added factory PS cooler, added lower lip, made custom bolts for the body lifted center bumper mounts, spent way too much time horsing around with bumper fitment, new 195 stat. Speaking of which, here's some BS I had to get rid of.

A quick glance doesn't instill confidence. Dig deeper and get confirmation.

Why so much silicone you ask?

Because some neanderthal rammed a 10x1.50 bolt where a 3/8 NC goes. Then stacked washers under the bolt so it only threaded in so deep. And this r-tard has probably reproduced. Wonderful. Lucky for me he only ruined half of the threads, so I tapped the rest to clean them out and reassembled with a fresh thermostat and seal.

What do you know? Thing actually gets up to temp and doesn't leak or look like *ss. Non-stop entertainment with this thing.